1g-gte problems - need some help

[VeeP]

hey all

been havin some problems recently with a 1g soarer. its down on power, stalls at the lights sometimes, cuts out while you are driving seemingly at random and sometimes you'll open it up from low RPM and it will start jerking and doesnt make any power at all. The more you open it up while its doing this the more it jerks and slows down. The ECU is reporting no codes and the motor is in good nick. Only mods are 2.5inch exhaust and some boost. Its definetely not boost cut, the ignition timing is at 10deg (standard) the only thing i can think of is the fuel filter which im gonna replace. Where is the fuel filter located btw?

any ideas?

[ndgcpr]

i mentioned in the soarer thread but the fuel filter shoudl be on the passenger side under the throttle body if i remember correctly. I will let more knowlegable people answer but if you floor it more and it gets worse and if you take you foot off and it seems to go a little faster for a short time it sounds like it is too rich. maybe your injectors need cleaning?

[VeeP]

ok so injector cleaning is next on the line.

ill check for the fuel filter. . . can i just unplug it and stick a new one in or is there a special procedure?

[Hydra]

Pretty much a matter of disconnecting the fuel pump power, running the engine for a bit to release the pressure in the fuel lines (engine will stall), and then unbolt, replace (with copper washers), plug fuel pump power back in and run. Check for leaks, then go for a drive!

[Adash=P]

Check spark plugs and dizzy too.

[stradlater]

My experience is you don't need to worry about depressurizing the fuel lines, just unhook the old filter, and replace the new one.

As for your problem. It does sound very much like a carbi car running way too rich. Ofcourse you don't have a carbi car. However, I'd check a few basics.

A) Filters and fluids. Check and replace as needed.

B) Plugs. CHANGE THEM, they cost fuck all, just replace all 6

C) Why is your ignition timing locked at 10degrees? It should not be locked at 10 degrees, it should rather fluctuate as reved. Get a timing light onto it if your not sure.

D) Injector Clean. May not be the problem, but a cheap bit of insurance.

E) O2 sensor checking? Maybe pull out and clean.

F) AFM. Is it playing up? Is the plug in right? Maybe unplug it, see what the engine does (of course it'll run shit, but does it run any worse than before, or maybe better?)


My thoughts here are two things. The main two things inside an engine that change the way it runs are fuel flow/control and ignition timing/advance/retard. Personally, I'd be doing everything I could to check that out.

I'm curious to know what the outcome is, so keep my posted.

[VeeP]

errm. . .where is the fuel filter? i dont think its under the TB and i dont think its under the manifold either. . . . i thought they were little clear cylinders yeah?

stradlater - oil was changed on monday along with coolant, plugs are only about 12000km old. . . do they need to be changed? the base timing is 10deg, not the true timing. ill clean out the o2 sensor too. As for the AFM, i have two and the same thing happens which ever one is connected.

what should i b looking for when i check the distributor out?


ok so i need injector cleaner and to find the fuel filter. check dizzy and plugs too

[SIKTOY]

Check your fuel pressure I had a similar problem with my engine and had to replace the fuel pressure regulator

Cheers
BEN

[stradlater]

I don't have a fuel filter on mine, but I would imagine it's under the floor of the car, just follow the fuel lines and you'll find it.

I like that fuel pressure idea too.

Personally, for the piece of mind, and the minimal cost, I'd replace the plugs too. 12,000 k's old aint' exactly young.

Maybe try unplugging all your leads and checking the ends of them out to make sure they are all seated properly? It is sounding less like an ignition problem, but won't hurt to check.

[Hydra]

On my 1G-GTE, it's bolted to the engine block using a bracker, under the inlet manifold at the rear end of the engine.

You don't NEED to release the pressure when removing the fuel filter, but it's better than getting fuel in your eyes or mouth

[love ke70]

vac leak....
seems to be the answer to alot of things

on the note of coolant change, did you bleed it properly? if there is air in it it may be getting a cold engine signal and richening up...

[VeeP]

ok so checked for properly bled cooling system no probs there. Plugs look ok too with good gap.So what im gonna do is get the fuel pressure checked. . can i do that myself btw?

Can i get an aftermarket fuel pres regulator. . .and uhh. . .where is the std one located btw?

thanks heaps guys

[Phyro]

ok so checked for properly bled cooling system no probs there. Plugs look ok too with good gap.So what im gonna do is get the fuel pressure checked. . can i do that myself btw?

Can i get an aftermarket fuel pres regulator. . .and uhh. . .where is the std one located btw?

thanks heaps guys

Gads now I'm hooked on this thread, I'm keen for the answer too!

also


Merry xmas kids, now, back on topic...

[Forcefed6]

As mentioned, the fuel filter is located under the inlet manifold, bolted to the block. If I recall, it is not a standard type inline filter with hose tails, but instead is connected to steel tubing via banjo bolts.

As for the fuel pressure regulator, it is mounted on one end of the fuel rail (not sure which end) and has a vacuum line attached to it. Fuel pressure is pretty simple to check if you have the right equipment, so this might be easier for a workshop. If the regulator seems to be faulty, it can be changed to an after market adjustable type pretty easily.

One other thing that may cause it to run rich (if in fact that is what the problem is), is the cold start injector sticking or leaking. This is connected to the front of the fuel rail via a steel line, and located under the center of the manifold.

Now finally, as you said it seems to stall, and is lacking power, this could also be a result of a split hose in the intercooler piping.causing a boost leak. This would cause a loss of power and rich running due to the leaking boost, and also the stalling because it may draw unmetered air via the split, and cause it run lean and stall or hunt abit for fuel.

I hope this gives you a bit to look for, and hope it is nothing major.

Cheers

[brett_celicacoupe]

Now finally, as you said it seems to stall, and is lacking power, this could also be a result of a split hose in the intercooler piping.causing a boost leak. This would cause a loss of power and rich running due to the leaking boost, and also the stalling because it may draw unmetered air via the split, and cause it run lean and stall or hunt abit for fuel.

i second this notion!

intake piping leaks could be responsible for all the syptoms described.

stalling; air is entering after the AFM and so the AFM closes enough to open the fuel pump circuit - fuel pump shuts down; engine shuts down soon after.

jerking; bad air-fuel mixtures. lean on vacuum, rich as hell on boost


so yeh, thats the first thing id be checking. although not in the high pressure line, check the pipe between the AFM and T piece to compressor inlets.