Guide: 5ME Air Pump Removal

**RObErT_RaTh** · 17-12-2006, 05:48 PM

Thanks to GA61XX's guide shown here:
http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15202

I managed to remove my air pump and thought I'd also post how I did it with a couple more pics for those that are unsure.

First thing you have to start off with if you still have the stock air box is remove the two large hoses running to your air box and also remove them from the pump. You should also block the two holes off at the airbox to stop them sucking in unwanted/dirty air. The next big hose you need to remove is from the rear of the air pump and it runs to the air rail. There is a valve in the wide part of air rail so don't worry exhaust wont come whoosing out of there.

Next step is to undo and remove the air pump itself. There are only 2 bolts holding it in place. The first can be loosened to allow the pump to swivel and remove tension from the v-belt. The second bolt is the main bolt that allows the air pump to swing.

Now lift out the air pump and detach the 3 small vacuum lines connected to it. Should see a vast open space where something used to be and be glad it's not there anymore.

Now hookup whatever free spinning pulley you have and bolt it all in to make sure it's not going anywhere. I was lucky enough to be able to use GA61XX's bracket but other people have just got some plates with a pulley on it and bolted it in there.

Now block off the 3 vacuum lines and unplug the small electronic device that was plugged into these lines. (The rubber band is temporary and I'll be putting a zip tie on there as soon as I go and buy some more

)

Now be happy knowing that you're not actually hurting the environment by removing this and that your car won't make an annoying rattling noise when you rev it hard. Also in my case it stopped me from getting constant backfires under gear compression which has been really annoying lately so I'm glad that's fixed. And let's not forget the massif amounts of extra power you've now got to keep the ole 5M pullin' strong

Realistically you would probably only get a small gain of maybe 4hp max

**Negative Boost** · 17-12-2006, 09:54 PM

Loving the detailed guides Chris, they tops!

**RObErT_RaTh** · 17-12-2006, 10:24 PM

Originally Posted by Negative Boost

Loving the detailed guides Chris, they tops!

Glad to hear it even if this particular one isn't much use to you

And it looks like I got those cable ties quicker than expected (found some spares) good thing too because I don't think the rubber band would've lasted to long

**Enchanter** · 18-12-2006, 12:21 PM

Good to see somone has taken the initiative and done this guide. Theres still plenty of 5me Supras driving about.
Dont forget to plug the two hose holes from the airbox aswell. I imagine it will suck unfiltered air in otherwise, (although I havent checked).
RObErT_RaTh did you try and remove the air rail ? It would look much better with it gone as well.
(+rep to you when I have spread some more love)

**RObErT_RaTh** · 18-12-2006, 04:51 PM

Originally Posted by Enchanter

Dont forget to plug the two hose holes from the airbox aswell. I imagine it will suck unfiltered air in otherwise, (although I havent checked).

Ooops forgot about that since I don't have the air box

But I don't think it matters, it still gets filtered from what I can remember, I'll have to double check

Originally Posted by Enchanter

RObErT_RaTh did you try and remove the air rail ? It would look much better with it gone as well.

Nah I didn't attempt it as currently I have nothing to block the holes and if I stuffed it up I could easily mount the pump back up to get it running again. Probably detach it all and plug it up when I get the turbo on.

**Negative Boost** · 18-12-2006, 06:37 PM

One of those holes into the airbox leads to the outside of the air filter and gets filtered. The other hole feeds to the inside of the air filter and goes directly into the AFM and hence does not get filtered.

**RObErT_RaTh** · 18-12-2006, 07:20 PM

Originally Posted by Negative Boost

One of those holes into the airbox leads to the outside of the air filter and gets filtered. The other hole feeds to the inside of the air filter and goes directly into the AFM and hence does not get filtered.

Bah he beat me to it, checked it and that's what it looks like

I'll edit the guide to say to block off the holes thanks guys

**GA61XX** · 30-12-2006, 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by RObErT_RaTh

Thanks to GA61XX's guide shown here:
http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15202

I managed to remove my air pump and thought I'd also post how I did it with a couple more pics for those that are unsure.

I was lucky enough to be able to use GA61XX's bracket but other people have just got some plates with a pulley on it and bolted it in there.

Now be happy knowing that you're not actually hurting the environment by removing this and that your car won't make an annoying rattling noise when you rev it hard. Also in my case it stopped me from getting constant backfires under gear compression which has been really annoying lately so I'm glad that's fixed. And let's not forget the massif amounts of extra power you've now got to keep the ole 5M pullin' strong

Realistically you would probably only get a small gain of maybe 4hp max

Cheers thank's for the link !

Looks like i should do some more tec on this !

as for the enviroment, the air pump is only used in cold start up, to lower the CO's out of the exaust pipe, buy adding the air into the exaust manifould, this is crap, as it only dilute's the gasses.

hence CO's are the same.
You can remove most of the vaccum switches & wires, ( will get back with details )
You would be right with 4hp gain.