1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

[infotechplus]

I'm going to start this conversion soon with the turbo 1g version on my YN55 model.

Have you done measurements of both the turbo engine and your engine bay? The YN55 is from 1983 to 1986 I think and the engine bay is a lot smaller than my RN85. In fact I have read that the 1GGxx swap is very difficult, if possible at all in this model. You should get some measurements done. I know in the RN85 it was a tight fit.

I've got a couple of Q's for you.Did you start with a half cut or just engine package?

It was a package from SSS Automotive - Gen3 engine, ECU, uncut loom, 1G bellhousing, Nissan S13 radiator, 1G clutch slave cylinder, power steering, aircon, air flow meter and intake. No flywheel or gearbox. You might be better off getting a half cut as you will need all the EFI stuff. Have you got a manual box G52. It bolts up to the 1G bellhousing. Also, keep in mind that manual flywheels are increasingly hard to source.

Are you worried about the amount of oil your losing with the custom sump?

I estimate I lost a litre capacity by modding the sump but I'm putting an oil cooler on which should give me that back when you factor in the lines and the cooler.

That would have to be one of the best painting tips ever using the rope under the seals. as I'm going to paint mine in the next week, I was going to have all the glass taken out for it. Now I dont have to, thanks alot.

Cheers. Not an original idea from me. I picked it up in a book. In fact I bought a new book recently "How to Paint Your Car" by Dennis W. Parks and David H. Jacobs, Jnr (Motorbooks Workshop (www.motorbooks.com) and it repeats that tip. It will save you a lot of time and a couple of hundred $$$, and a professional-looking result if you do it carefully. I have found if you use synthetic rope (eg. nylon) or even Cat5 cable it works well - don't use the horsehair ropes as they fray.

The cover is slightly different here but it is one of the best introductory books on painting a car I've read. It's US based when it comes to paint brands but general enough to be worthwhile. I got mine at one of those discount bookshops for under $20 if I remember correctly.

You do have to wonder sometimes. There are some photos of guys spraying without any protective clothing and/or masks, yet the text goes to great pains to point out how dangerous spray painting can be, especially urethanes (2pac) which is illegal to do here in your back yard.



Good luck,

Peter

[nedm]

nah, i havent done any measurements yet as i have no acess to a 1ggte. the YN55 went up to 87/88. my box at the moment is the L42 4spd coloumn shift but im going to put a w50 box behind the 1y for now so i can make the trip to perth.

im going to definately get a copy of that book. sounds perfect for getting some of those little hints that make the job easier.

[infotechplus]

With the wiring on hold at the moment all my time has been consumed with the rear disc brake conversion (MA70 Supra calipers, rotors and backing plates/Hiace Axle Studs/Liteace handbrake cables).

Today I formulated a new plan of attack on the bodywork to move things along. I've decided to clean, undercoat, paint and clearcoat each door and then put it away in the garage until I can clearcoat the main body and finish off the tray.

I started with the passenger side rear door, stripped all the internals out of it, removed the glass and cleaned it up, first with 800 W/D and then W&GR. Stripping the internals is quite straightforward - first the door handle, then winding mechanism, unlock, and then the glass which is pulled out through the bottom of the door after removing four small screws and a panel.

The inside of the door had all the black sticky stuff removed with W&GR.



The outside was sanded with 600 and 800 W/D



I bought some Septone Plastic Primer in anticipation of colour-coding the side mirrors. Two light coats 10 minutes apart, then 20 minutes to dry, then two coats of filler/primer should do the job. The mirrors had been sanded smooth a couple of nights ago to remove the uneven surface.



I sanded back the outside of the door again with 1200 W/D, then gave it three coats of primer about 5 minutes apart. the first was very light, the next two wet.



When the undercoat was dry (I did the mirrors while I was waiting) I put two coats of filler/primer on the outside in an effort to cover some small blemishes which I had feathered out. Then I waited about 30 minutes, sanded everything but concentrated on the outside with 1200 W/D. Then wiped down with W&GR, towel dried and then three coats of Toyota Blue, inside and out.



I'm going to let the basecoat dry overnight and then tomorrow afternoon I'll do the clearcoat on it, as well as the underside of the bonnet.

With the doors out of the way I can finish the body and then re-affix the doors. Then I can concentrate on the tray.

Cheers,

Peter

[Herus]

I went down to U-pullit today to get started on my conversion!

This is what i have so far.



Thats 8 Hiace stads, 1 liteace passenger side handbrake cable, VL Lift pump and Bosch inline pump.

Now.. if only i had a hilux to put them in!

Total cost for the above was $44

It feels good to get started, but it would be better if i had something to fit them into.

Thanks

Andrew

[infotechplus]

Total cost for the above was $44

Andrew

That is certainly good value Andrew.

Did you make a note of the year model of the Liteace? Was there more than one of them? I may have to go elsewhere for my other cable if P'n'P don't get any new stock over the next week or so.

What are the part numbers of the Bosch pumps?

Cheers,

Peter

[Herus]

I had a quick look to make sure it was a lite ace, but i forgot to check which year it was.. id already been there for an hour or so when i got up to the liteace, and in about 38degree heat wasnt feeling the best... it then took me the best part of another 2 hours to get the handbrake cable out... nothing seemed to be working for me...
Then there wasnt any other liteaces in site, our U Pull it isnt as good as your one over there.
Theres nothing resembling a supra, or anything else suitable, i only found 1 car with the headlights you mentioned, and it only had 1 headlight left, with no globes, or rubber covers.
They say theres over 3000 cars in there, i think over 2000 of them would have to be fords and commodores.. theres a toyota section but from what i saw most were lexcens or camry/apollos, and there wasnt much else in there interesting.

part #s are

Lift pump is A2317 1303
Bosch pump is 0 580 464 070

I think i got out of it cheap because he didnt see the lift pump. i think it was hidden under my socket set in my tool bag and i couldnt even see it until i got home.. was thinking i left it there for a while!

Thanks

Andrew

[infotechplus]

in about 38degree heat wasnt feeling the best... it then took me the best part of another 2 hours to get the handbrake cable out... nothing seemed to be working for me...

Yeah it was pretty hot over here yesterday when I pulled the cable. But it only took about 15 minutes. Remove the handbrake cable from the backing plate. One 10mm near the axle, one hidden under the ally stone guard, and another near the tank. Remove the attachment and pull through.

What happened that it took you so long?

I only found 1 car with the headlights you mentioned, and it only had 1 headlight left, with no globes, or rubber covers.

Celicas are the best bet. SX, ST all have them. Pick 'n' Payless is full of 'em.

part #s are

Lift pump is A2317 1303
Bosch pump is 0 580 464 070

Good one. Same as mine.130 Litres per hour at 3 bar.

I think i got out of it cheap because he didnt see the lift pump. i think it was hidden under my socket set in my tool bag and i couldnt even see it until i got home.. was thinking i left it there for a while!

These things happen but it was still cheap. I paid $50 just for the two pumps and regulator.

Cheers,

Peter

[Herus]

Yeah it was pretty hot over here yesterday when I pulled the cable. But it only took about 15 minutes. Remove the handbrake cable from the backing plate. One 10mm near the axle, one hidden under the ally stone guard, and another near the tank. Remove the attachment and pull through.

What happened that it took you so long?Peter

It was filthy under there, the cable was covered in so much fluid and dust that i couldnt get the clip out, and the handbrake had no play even with the lever down all the way.

I think it took me that long, i was donw there for 5 hours and im trying to account for all my time.

Celicas are the best bet. SX, ST all have them. Pick 'n' Payless is full of 'em.

Lucky you! The only one here was an SX. Actually i lie, there was another SX with both headlights still intact, but the rest of the plastic had melted over the top from the fire that had gone through the engine bay....

Good one. Same as mine.130 Litres per hour at 3 bar.

Well thats good!

These things happen but it was still cheap. I paid $50 just for the two pumps and regulator.

I think i scored the regulator in my lot as well..

Thanks

Andrew

[infotechplus]

This afternoon I did a couple of things but no painting as it was threatening to rain here.

I made the fuel pump bracket. Cut it from 2mm aluminium plate after measuring up and making a template from cardboard. It utilises two existing tapped threads in the Hilux frame - one where the fuel filter bracket is and the other where the fuel rail was held on the frame by a three channel bracket. This way I don't have to drill into the frame.

I measured it up to hold the BOSCH Fuel Pump and two Valvoline Z14 fuel filters (about $4 each at Supercheap Auto). The fuel pump is held in place by a bracket I bought earlier at Bunnings. The mounting holes are 100mm apart so I'll use two flathead stubby bolts from the other side with spring washer and Nylock nuts. The Z14s are mounted on either side of the pump so I get a prefilter and post filter.

Here's the bracket mounted temporarily on the frame.



I'm going to run EFI fuel hose from the right hand Z14 all the way to the tank, and remove the hard lines altogether. I was originally going to keep as much of them as possible but they are a nuisance so 'goodbye original fuel lines'.

Here's a diagram of the plate if anyone is doing the same conversion.



So I've pretty much got the fuel lines sorted out now, and maybe this weekend we can kick it into life, after we rewire the Fuel Pump Relay.

Also did a bit of work on the brake conversion but that's in the other thread

[Note: any comments about the legs will not go down well at this end ]

Cheers,

Peter

[Herus]

Well i spent the day chasing up the guy i want to buy a Hilux off.

He told me he was very busy, and hadnt had a chance to get any pictures yet, but i will have them by tomorrow morning.

Shipping from Newcastle is going to cost me $575 with Toll, so if anyone has any better ideas, please let me know.
If i could get the car to Sydney, to GreenAcre, then shipping would only cost me $376. If someone can arrange this for me, there would be a few $ in it for them. PM Me, Ta!

Looks like its all going to plan so far Peter, thanks for the bracket diagram as well, hopefully ill be using that shortly!

Thanks

Andrew

[Grega]

peter, just a quick one
careful using those little Z14 filters. they're not EFI based filters only carby ; so I don;t know if they will pose a flow restriction or collapse under the pressure of EFI fuel pressure.

anyone else feel free to chime in if i'm wrong ; most EFI cars have the metal filters (hi pressure, normally about $20 each or so) for good reason

my 2c.

[infotechplus]

peter, just a quick one
careful using those little Z14 filters. they're not EFI based filters only carby ; so I don;t know if they will pose a flow restriction or collapse under the pressure of EFI fuel pressure.

anyone else feel free to chime in if i'm wrong ; most EFI cars have the metal filters (hi pressure, normally about $20 each or so) for good reason

my 2c.

Thanks for that. I'll check that out. In fact, when I went to Supercheap I thought of getting a bigger. metal one but opted for the two smaller plastic ones which, as you say, are pretty flimsy. As usual, look and learn

Peter

[infotechplus]

Having been set straight by Grega, I exchanged the two Z14s for a Z200 EFI metal body filter (Supercheap Auto, $13.95). I figured if it is big enough for the EA Ford, Holden Statesman, and Nissan 300ZX then it should be okay on the 'Lux.



I chose this one because of its straight barbed piping and it looked about the same size as the BOSCH fuel pump. Luckily it is and I can use the same Bunnings clamp on it (after fitting it with a rubber sleeve). I'll have to drill two new holes in my mounting plate but that's easy enough.





I also picked up a metre of fuel hose (Codan Fuel Injection Hose SAE 30 9.5mm I.D. Part No.29106) to run from the filter back to the tank ($5.99 p.metre).

Cheers

Peter

[TA-022]

more info on the rubber sleeves please

and kudos on the bunnings clip! ive been gagging at pump bracket prices lately.

[infotechplus]

more info on the rubber sleeves please

and kudos on the bunnings clip! ive been gagging at pump bracket prices lately.

OK. The Bunnings brackets come in a pack of 6 - you can't just buy one. But they aren't expensive so FTW. Now I've got to use another one so that's good. I think you'll find them in the drainage section.

The rubber sleeve is standard fit on every VL Commodore fuel pump so next time you're at the wreckers grab yourself one - I know I will.

Cheers,

Peter