1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

[1JZ~lux]

Kidney belt and ear plugs work well in my lux, to solve the rough ride and ohh so many loud noises.

[1JZ~lux]

Sorry I can't offer any help with the hunting problen you've got, but I will have the R32 front brakes written up in the next 2 weeks or so.

[infotechplus]

OK Toymodders it's time for an update:

Been busy painting of late. Started on the rear tray gate.



Sanded it down, finished it with 1200 W&D. Two coats of undercoat, sanding with 1200 between coats, then three coats of Toyota Blue followed by a light sand and three coats of clear, including one last heavy coat before buffing later.

I usually give it about a month before buffing - Septone Mr. Buff Buffing Compound applied with Bosch orbital sander (twice over), followed by Meguiars Scratch and Swirl Remover, then Meguiars Gold Class Polish (2 coats) buffed with wool pad on a Ryobi Buffing machine.

The inside of the tray was done with SPECK 2000.



Next I did the driver's side rear door. Same process. Haven't buffed the tray or the door yet.





All the door mechanisms, window and trim, as well as speakers are back on and connected up. That only leaves the two front doors to do.

I have, however, buffed the front (bonnet, two guards and bumper:





Exhaust is also looking good:



Here's the driver's door, sanded and prepped with undercoat. I had to spend about an hour removing all the inner workings and some Septone W&GR to remove all the black sticky crap that holds the plastic liner on.

Also the people who owned the ute before me sprayed some rust prevention stuff on the inside of the doors and all it seems to have done is block up the run off openings in the bottom of the doors, causing a build up of sludge. I cleaned most of it out and then scraped the door with a screwdriver to clear it.

Here's the door. You can just see some remnants of the rust preventer in the bottom photo. I left it as it's probably doing a job. It was just the bottom channel that needed clearing:





Inside the engine bay there have been some changes too mostly brought about by suggestions from the engineer.

Next thread ...

[infotechplus]

After having the pressure line on the power steering blow last weekend when I drove the Lux on it's second test flight I realised that my home remedy of power steering hose, three hose clamps and home flared metal ends wasn't going to cut it. So I made a trip out to Pick'n'Payless to find a solution.

Three hours later I came home with a great line that I grabbed from another Toyota (of course). I'm pretty sure it was a Cressida. (Should have made a note of it but I was preoccupied with finding a couple of other things!)

I had to twist it a bit to make it fit. My first attempt proved fruitless so I reversed it and that did the job.



Much relief. Problem solved. I refilled the power steering fluid, bled the system, and no leaks.

As you know I am running out of time (April 30th Emissions Test and weighbridge appointment) so rather than attempt to make a box to cover the K&N pod as suggested by the engineer I refitted the factory air filter complete with new filter element (from Mr. Filter at Toongabbie).



That meant rejigging the intake system, removing the metal bracket that held the pod and bolting the air filter down to the front. All possible but I then had to remove the 22R washer bottle to accommodate the filter.

Solution.

At PnP I searched all the small vehicles looking for a suitable replacement. Not one that has a long neck and then the bottle down in the front guard but a compact bottle that I could fit it in the engine bay up near the brake booster.

I found just the bottle on a late model Diahatsu Charade.



It's a good choice because it fits an easily-made bracket by sliding down on it's edge. I made up the bracket and bolted it to the body using three already existing holes, then slid the bottle over it. My only concern was the quality of the 12 volt pump on the bottle but that was short-lived as it works beautifully with heaps of pressure. Even better the 22R two pin power connector was an exact match too.

I had fitted up the one-way valve on the brake booster earlier, but I needed the bracket to hold it to the firewall, which I got at PnP:



I also got some new electrical bits including a new Circuit Open Relay, some other relays and the holder they fitted on. This was to allow us to move all these bits from the cabin to the engine bay.

Remember we were still chasing a problem with the engine revving up and down.

To try and solve this problem I poured over the schematics almost every night, as well as the pinouts Grega supplied to me. (Grega, you saved my life mate - I owe you some beers dude).

I figured there were two possible causes (as suggested by others earlier):

Firstly, there may be a vacuum leak
Secondly, the wiring might be dodgy.

Well, it was a combination of the two.

Today Bob and I completely rewired the ECU and relays. We started at 8:00am and finished at about 2:00pm. We followed Grega's pinouts to:

Rewire the Supercharger Clutch with a new relay, connecting it to the two pins on the F2 connector (pins 3 & 4), connect Pin 3 on the F2 plug to pin 25 on the ECU "S" plug. This allowed the ECU to control the Supercharger as it should

We also noticed that Pin 1 on the F1 connector that provides 12 volt power to the TPS, Idle Valve and SMC was not wired up. We fixed this by connecting it to the main EFI relay (which we also replaced).

We connected up the 12 volt power on START to the Cold Start Injector and Timer (Pin 11 on the F1 connector). This was not identified on the initial schematics Bullfrog supplied. Again, thanks to Grega.

I'm sure all these things were part of the solution.

However, after doing all this we forgot to connect up the ground wire to the relay, Pin 7 on the F1 connector. We did this and fired it up but the engine was still hunting. BUGGER!

So we started looking around the engine bay, checking power and earths to all the main items, especially the TPS, AFM, and ISCV. This led us to the back of the ISCV, and we traced the wires to the VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve) which is tucked out of view right at the back.



And there was our problem. One of the small vacuum hoses was disconnected from its piping (green arrow). Taking the VSV off and reconnecting it, and checking all the others, we refitted it and hit the ingition.

How can I express the relief we felt as the engine burst into life and then idled like a stroked kitten? I stalked the backyard cursing expletives, half through joy and the other half for the simple solution to a three week old problem.

So I went up the road, filled a 20L jerry can with Caltex Premium 98, added some Valvoline Injector Cleaner, and drove up and down the street a few times to make sure everything was working as it should.

I should also say that the Supra rear disk conversion is really nice too. The Lux pulls up in a straight line sure and steady.

So I have to finish the front doors and then its off to the RTA and weighbridge next week.

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

Good weather for ducks, hey?

Not real good for finishing off the Lux conversion though. I hope it is raining where it is needed most. The rivers around the local area are flowing torrents.

Well, I have one door to go and I'm finished the respray. I remounted the driver's door today (had it painted a couple of days ago) and fitted up the glass, rubbers, handle, winder and speaker.



I also colour-coded the external mirror after sanding the plastic smooth for a gloss finish.



During my many trips to Pick'n'Payless I've picked up assorted rubbers, stoppers, screws and other little bits to restore the Lux to original trim so the doors now close with a beautiful 'thunk' like a new car does. It's a lovely sound, even my wife commented as I closed the door.

I also got the central locking working nicely as before it had a tendency to lock/unlock several times when you pressed the button. I did notice also that the wires on the rear doors had to be reversed so that all locks worked in unison. Strange but who's to argue.

Here's a closeup of the door trim with my 6.5" woofer installed. Tweeters are up on the dash. Powered by Boston Acoustics split system. Very nice accurate sound on most types of music.



Even though it took me only about 30 minutes to remove all the trim and winding mechanisms from the door it took me about 2 hours to put everything back. It's like doing one of those massive jigsaw puzzles, but there's an order to how you put everything back in. Get it wrong and you have to remove everything. Luckily I got it right first go!

So I have one door to go:



I'll do this over the weekend, weather permitting. I might have to break out the lamps if the weather doesn't ease up. Have to have it finished by Monday for the trip out to Penrith RTA for the Emissions test, and then to Auburn to the public weighbridge for weighing.

I picked up some new toys over the last week too.

The Calibre battery charger I picked up from Supercheap Auto on sale for $75. It's a 6 AMP charger with float feature so you can leave it overnight without worry.

I was borrowing Bob's charger on/off for the last month or so as the battery in the Lux (which came in the Civic from Japan) is on it's last legs.



I normally don't worry about the radio these days (prefer CDs anytime) but when I was at Supercheap on the weekend they had just got a new line of stock in. This is one of those FM Expanders that you use to shift the frequency up 20MHz on Japanese spec stereos, which I have in the Lux. It was less than $20 so I grabbed one. Haven't installed it yet but I'll get around to it when I redo the dash on the weekend.



The other issue we have with the IGGZE conversion is giving it a tune before Monday.

The first job was to reset the adjustment screw on the AFM. AS we don't have a CO meter we used the alternative method outlined in the 1G factory manual, which is to use a micrometer to set the level of the screw.

You do this by looking at the number stamped on the meter just to the left of the screw. Mine said "69" which is 6.9mm from the top edge. Then you can set the idle at the TPS via a multimeter/techometer.

So I was browsing through Jaycar/Supercheap/DSE for such a device and I found this one at DSE on sale (reduced from $79.95 down to $59.95). It's a Digitor (DSE homebrand) with a heap of useful features:



It has a tach/dwell feature via the clamp over the spark plug leads, a temperature probe, and the usual other features.

I'll do the tuneup and check the timing over the next few days.

That's all for this Anzac Day, so,

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

Well, well, well ...

You know when you buy something you trust that you've done the right research and you've made the best decision for what you want to do?

Well, I was looking around the WWW for information on using digital multimeters/engine analyzers (sorry US spelling is better in this instance on GOOGLE). Some tips on making best use of the new gadget I bought on the weekend as the manual is pretty basic.



I came across a test done by Yahoo Cars UK and, there it was. Ist place in a test out of 7 different multimeters - the Draper Engine Analyser. And check the price. Those POMS sure are paying through the nose for some of their gear. 70 quid is almost $200. Here's a synopsis of the result:

"The most comprehensive meter tested, and the only one with a bar-graph display as well as digital. That's useful - especially when testing sensors and other variable components. It also has a temperature sensor, hold function and an audible continuity test, along with dwell and tachometer. The instructions are not as good as the Gunsons, but they certainly tell you what you need to know. Our Best Buy."

He He. Now I'm happy!

BTW, this unit is on sale at DSE until next Sunday (29/04).

The store I bought mine from had the original price but here's the weblink to it. If you're interested make sure they ring up the sale price.

I'm going to crosspost this in the Technical forum for others who may be interested.

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

Even though I'm still working on the last door the wet weather has prevented me from finishing it off. Hopefully Sunday will be just that

In the meantine I've been preparing for the Emissions test out at Penrith on Monday.

I made sure the engine, gearbox and diff all had fresh oil.

• Engine - Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 5W-40
  
• Gearbox and Diff - Valvoline DuraGear Synthetic Blend 75W-90 API GL5

Brake and Clutch reservoirs topped up with Ferodo DOT 4 Brake & Clutch fluid.

Power Steering reservoir topped up and bled with Castrol Power Steering fluid. Also adjusted the freeplay on the steering to give a firmer feel at the steering wheel with no slack.

I checked the timing after shorting the pins E1 -> TE1 at the Check Connector, and it sat at a solid 12 deg so that looked okay. I set the adjustment screw at the AFM to 6.9mm which is the standard setting (according to the two numbers stamped to the left of the adjustment screw) and then adjusted the idle to about 900 - 1000 RPM. A bit high but I'll leave it to the experts to set it right - manual says about 800 RPM which I couldn't get without stalling it )

So I took the Lux for a spin around the block last night but after about 6 laps the temperature gauge (aftermarket NISMO unit) went to 110 deg so I pulled in to have a check of everything.

This morning I drained the coolant and checked the thermostat. The usual test - suspended the thermostat in water, set it to boil and immersed the thermometer line from the new DSE engine analyser (multimeter/tachometer). No problem there as the thermostat opened at 88 deg.

I checked all the pipes and nothing was leaking so I refilled the radiator with fresh water/coolant mix, and set off for some more laps. Same problem. The needle on the NISMO gauge went up and up.

I checked the radiator for blockages but the water flowed freely through to the bottom. I opened up the heater hoses and topped up the coolant.

I decided to have a look at the thermo fan, and decided to reverse the flow so that the air was being sucked through than than blown on the radiator.

Another 6 laps around the block and the NISMO gauge sat at about 88 deg which should be okay.

So hopefully I can finish the door tomorrow, put it on and then hope for the best on Monday.

Also spoke to John out at Consultmotive regarding getting the Lux engineered. I'll call him Monday after I've got through the next major hurdle. He seemed knowledgeable and friendly. His fee for preparation of Engineering Report is $500 he told me.

Cheers,

Peter

[Herus]

The old fan spinning the wrong way trick.

Having the fan spinning towards the radiator causes a air block from air trying to flow through the raditor from the movement of the car, and the fan pushing back in the other direction.

This causes stagnant air about where the radiator sits, and of course no air movement means that your water doesnt cool down.

My Uncle had this happen in his 93 lux with a ecotech in it.

had 4 different auto electricians look at it, and none of them could figure it out.

Glad you got it all sorted Peter.

Good luck monday!

Andrew

[TA-022]

$500? is that take it to him with all reports and as long as it passes he'll write it? or is that just to get to the paper point and then pay for the cert?

I havent talked $ with him yet .. but i trust him enough to pay what it takes.

[infotechplus]

$500? is that take it to him with all reports and as long as it passes he'll write it? or is that just to get to the paper point and then pay for the cert?

I havent talked $ with him yet .. but i trust him enough to pay what it takes.

I'm not backward in coming forward - if I want to know the cost I'll ask, and I want to know the costs. I've already had one engineer quote $100 less than that with comprehensive reports, photos etc all in binders, 3 copies, and this engineer gave me the impression he was very thorough. He even advised about going to and from places whilst driving an unregistered vehicle, and what to do to cover yourself.

John also sounded genuine enough. I only spoke to him for a couple of minutes, and we both agreed you really get the runaround talking to the RTA and other knowledgeable people.

He said get the Emissions paperwork, the weighbridge ticket, and bring the car to him, he will take a day to check it over (engine install, gearbox, brakes, brake test, exhaust, lights, speedo check, etc) and write it up ready for blue slip. $500.

John Varetimidis
Consulmotive
Unit 15, 17 Lorraine Street.
Peakhurst. NSW
Phone: (02) 91530011
Fax: (02) 9153 0592
Mob: 0412 253 973
Email: [email protected]

Cheers,

Peter

[TA-022]

Cheers for that .... i talked to John before the cutting and welding of my car ; I was quite impressed with his suggestions and in some cases pointing out where I may have been going overboard (hence saving me some dosh).

That and he only charged a half hour consult when we were going over it for easily an hour plus.

Good luck on all the tests Info .... mine should be roadworthy soon so we shall hook up to
measure our e-penii

[Gleno28]

Hey mate, looking awesome!

Did you sort out that vacuum line? May as well blank it off, mine is running inside (as in pic) to feed my aftermarket cruise control and used to feed a vac guage. Don't know where it went originally, Mic* might know??

Hope all goes well tomorrow mate, have fun!

Glen.

[infotechplus]

Well today was the day!

But before I discuss that, a brief catchup on the weekend.

I finished painting the passenger side front door on Sunday - it was certainly a good day for it up to about lunchtime. In the afternoon I re-hung it on the Lux.



After I put all the internals into it, I had to track down the insulating rubber that goes around the circumference of the door. I eventually found it (and the rear door as well) in a box at the back of the garage where they've sat since the weekend I bought the car.

That finished I then had to fix the rear door that had locked shut. At first I thought it was a misaligned hinge but after removing the door trim I found the arm that was controlled by the button was jammed. So I fixed that and everything was sweet.



It was late afternoon by now so I decided to go over the timing and give the Lux one last self-tune.

All that remained was to fit the gauges, reinstall the dash, hide all the wires, and refit the kick panels, and centre console, which I did.

RTA Emissions Centre Penrith

For those of you that have never been out to the Emissions Centre at Penrith here's a brief run down.



You have to wait your turn (obviously). Bookings are between 4 - 6 weeks in advance.

There were two guys in front of me. One was an RX7 Bathurst Special and the other was a Nissan GTR32 Skyline. Both had been apprehended by the men in blue (coincidentally) at Brighton; the Mazda last Christmas and the Skyline only a couple of months ago. Apparently the Police are blanket targetting the area with particular reference to imports.



The Mazda had already been through testing six (yes, 6) times and failed. He turned up today with a detuned ECU, six cats (yes, 6), stock everything, saying he had to pass or he was history. Well he failed but the RTA Emissions guy said he could bring his car and engine tuner down and they could work on the car to try and tune it as it was being tested. How's that for a NICE GUY?

[For those that think it might be important, the RTA guy is a young bloke (mid 30's maybe). He's very friendly and courteous, and he discussed my vehicle before testing it (what I'd done, etc). ]

The Skyline had better fortunes. He also had detuned ECU and standard exhaust fitted but big single turbo and a host of mods. He just scraped through so he was happy.

OK. So what happens?



You drive your car in, and depending on whether it's 2WD or 4WD, the RTA guy lines you up on the rollers. I was obviously 2WD.



You then give him all your details - engine size, gearbox eg 5 speed, model of vehicle, etc and then he looks at your paperwork to put in the engine number (in the case of an engine swap) and your registration number. He tested my Lux according to the car that the engine came out of, that is, 1990 Toyota Cresta GX81.

You can watch the tests from an observation room to the left of dyno.

The Emissions test consists of a simulated road run, where a screen at the front of the vehicle shows the guy when to accelerate and when to slow, and when to change gears. A huge fan automatically starts as well to keep your car as cool as possible.

They usually do two runs - the first to warm everything up (esp. the cat) so you usually get a poorer result on the first run. The second run is the same as the first in length and pattern.

They close the door whilst the test is being done for safety reasons. I watched the rear of the Lux hop around as the speedo on the screen pulled over 90 KPH and thought it was gonna give but everything was OK.

I have to say it's really hard watching from the observation room as they gun your car through the rev range and almost hit the ton towards the end of the test, before slowing down.

There's also a much larger facility next door where they do trucks and buses:



And the envelope please ...

According to the tests the Lux ran a bit high in NOx (by sedan car standards) but as it was a ute the Emissions guy said it was OK. So he obviously cut me some slack there. The other tests (CO, CO2 and THC which I think is Total Hydro Carbons) were on the high side too but OK. What the tests do is average out the four parameters over 3 kms which is the length of run.

I told the guy I'd only finished the Lux yesterday and he suggested a good tune and she would be sweet.

Not bad I suppose for a used cat from Pick'n'Payless, a (probably) poor tune, 1GGZE running a bit on the hot side 92 deg, and a home-made exhaust (which I might add is sounding sweeter with every drive - dare I say, from the driver's seat like the rumble of a small block V8)

So with that out of the way, I headed down to Auburn to the Public Weighbridge.



They weighed the Lux for Tare Mass, and also individual axles. My Tare Mass was 1.4, the weight over the front was .78 and the rear .62 tonnes.



So now I have some more paperwork to show and the process of registering the Lux is under way.



If you have to go out to the RTA at Penrith make sure you take all your paperwork with you, especially the receipt for your new engine (for the engine No.) plus I also printed off the Wiki entry for Toyota 1G engines showing mine came from the GX81 and another page with photos of the GX81 which included it's production run 1988 - 1990.

[As a side note: remember I said the engineer I spoke to said to carry a self-written letter saying I was driving an unregistered vehicle to the RTA for an Emissions Test etc. Well, just as I was pulling off the M4 at Penrith a Police car came up the ramp behind me so I instinctively started reaching for my envelope with all the paperwork, expecting I'd get pulled over. Sorry, it was a false alarm. They went straight past me. The heart took a while to drop back to anywhere near normal but that was the only 'incident' in an otherwise seamless process.]

Cheers,

Peter

[1JZ~lux]

Congrats on getting past all the tests.

[infotechplus]

Yeah, it's a relief to have that out of the way, and in some ways, I feel like there is a void in my life now but there are still some things to do.

I'm going to arrange a wheel alignment down at Western Brake & Steering as I noticed a small vibration driving down the M4. Either that or I need to change my wheels and tyres. Either way there's something not quite right.

I think the clutch needs adjusting too as I heard a small whine. Also I have to press the pedal right to the floor to change gears. Maybe there is permanent contact somewhere. I know the noise wasn't there before we put a new rod in the slave cylinder. I'll try a different rod and see what happens.

When I get my Toymods Membership Pack I might head down to Silverwater Automotive and get a decent tune.

Cheers,

Peter