1GGZE into an RN85 Hilux Dual Cab 2WD [Beware - lots of pix]

[Grega]

pete, copy the old exhaust, thats my vote. easier that way.
just get the bends ect and weld together in place
and yeah, most exhaust places will flare and supply mandrels to suit, at least my place does

[Youngy]

Hi,

I can't quite remember the exact number (I had a look on the net on the gov sites but could not find what I was after) but one of the rulings on exhausts is that they have to be at least 25mm (I think) rearward of the most rearward non-fixed window (including hatches) in a vehicle.

So in the case of the Hilux you don't have to go over the diff. You could even go with some nice side exit if you wanted to.

[Herus]

I can't quite remember the exact number (I had a look on the net on the gov sites but could not find what I was after) but one of the rulings on exhausts is that they have to be at least 25mm (I think) rearward of the most rearward non-fixed window (including hatches) in a vehicle.

So in the case of the Hilux you don't have to go over the diff. You could even go with some nice side exit if you wanted to.

Problem with this, least looking at mine, is that the having the side exit would still have to go over the diff, there isnt enough room to have it come out infront of the tyre.

I was actually looking at mine tonight and thinking about it...

Ill post some updates to my project when i get some time!

Andrew

[infotechplus]

Problem with this, least looking at mine, is that the having the side exit would still have to go over the diff, there isnt enough room to have it come out infront of the tyre.

Andrew

Anything's possible Andrew but a side exit, as you point out, would require quite considerable customisation with new hangers etc. and there isn't a lot of space to make the turns. This equates to $$$ and my aim is to keep the costs down to a minimum hence the used items and recycled ancillaries.

The exhaust will run from the 5M header to the collector, then straight back through 2 1/4" mild steel, turn left via a mandrel bend 90 deg turn just behind the chassis crossmember (and away from the fuel lines), across and then turn left (another mandrel bend 90 deg) to link up to the VN cat using the original hanger and cat location, then over the axle to the Lukey muffler (again using original location and hangers), and out via the chrome tip just visible under the towbar.

I think this will work okay and is doable by the home mechanic/fabricator. Today I will ring around and get prices on the bits I need.

Also, once i have the basic layout I'll get all the pipework flared in the appropriate places which will allow me to mock up in situ before welding.



Cheers,

Peter

[TA-022]

just a note to keep bends to a minimum and also the smallest degree possible to keep flow constant. 90deg bends all over the place may really hamper torque / flow.

but again props to a great build!

[infotechplus]

just a note to keep bends to a minimum and also the smallest degree possible to keep flow constant. 90deg bends all over the place may really hamper torque / flow.

but again props to a great build!

I hear what you're sayin' but the considerations are:

the fuel lines are all hose
the gearbox and gearbox mount

I want to stay as far away from these as I can but I'll have another look and keep your comment in mind.

I may need some shielding anyway.

Thanks,

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

The MA70 Brake booster and master cylinder arrived today:





Looks to be in very good condition. So that's another job for next weekend.

Thanks to Xistant and ReQuieM.

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

This afternoon I went and picked up some of the materials for my exhaust.

I rang around three or four local exhaust shops to get prices, and once again, the old adage of 'shop around before you buy' was proven. One shop quoted $22 per metre for aluminised 2 1/4 ID tubing, another didn't get back to me, and the third (where I went) quoted me $30 for the same spec product ... for 3 metres, and he flared the ends for me at no cost. I also bought two mandrel bent 90 deg pieces for $30.

So all up these pieces cost me $60 inc GST.

Exhaust system cost so far (2 1/4" ID aluminised steel)

1 x 3 metres tubing - $30
2 x 90 deg mandrel bends - $30
1 x Lukey offset Sports Muffler inc. chromed tip (used, P'nP) - $20
1 x Commodore VN cat converter (used, P'n'P) - $75
1 x 5M y-pipe (used, P'n'P) - $20

I got the idea for the VN cat from reading an article on Autospeed. You can read the full article here.

Autospeed also did a huge muffler comparison test as well. They compared many sports and straight-through designs including the Lukey (Walker) muffler.



Read the full article here. The Lukey came out on top in the dogleg-designed mufflers. There are four sections to this article - just follow the links at the bottom of each section.



Autospeed said "The better flowing of the baffled designs is the Walker Lukey L0099. Of the two in this category of muffler, it has the better flow and slightly better noise suppression, together with an excellent quality sound - in fact, it's arguably the best sounding muffler of the lot.".

So in case you are wondering I found the Lukey in the Commodore section at Pick'n'Payless. It might mean looking under a lot of Commodores but at least one is bound to have had it's exhaust upgraded at some point in it's life.

Cheers,

Peter

[Grega]

they are indeed a good muffler
i've had 2 on VN's in the past - good sound (for a V6) and yeah good flow too
very common on VN, VP ect

[infotechplus]

Out with the old:



and in with the new(ish):



Now that's what I would call a straight through exhaust! Three metres of aluminised 2 1/4" exhaust tubing ready to be measured and cut.

If you want to make used stuff look like new then get a hold of a can of Septone Aluminium High Heat paint. It has a 400 deg heat range, dries quickly and looks 100% on old metalwork. It's a great alternative to flat black and much more 'original'.



With the chrome tip temporarily in place:



A close-up of the VN Commodore AC cat:



and the Lukey Muffler:



and here's the 90 deg mandrel bends:



cheers,

Peter

[bansheebuzz]

I modified the fuel pump/filter bracket to mount both items, joined up the fuel hose, fitted the banjo bolt and connected both lines up to the fuel tank.



This is a close-up of the fuel pump and the Earth point.

I hope you have a filter between the fuel pump and injectors and i think you may have a few issues with that filter before the pump like that, you should have a surge tank running directly onto the pump.

[infotechplus]

I hope you have a filter between the fuel pump and injectors and i think you may have a few issues with that filter before the pump like that, You should have a surge tank running directly onto the pump.

Any one else care to comment?

That setup mimics the original VL Commodore setup regarding the filter and the pump, and the intank pump.

So what would the post-pump filter do that the pre-pump filter wouldn't do? I'm not being difficult, just wanting to understand the theory behind your comment. I'm always willing to listen to wiser heads

In addition, there have already been several comments in other threads about people not using surge tanks and having no problems.

Cheers,

Peter

[bansheebuzz]

A vl system is as follows,

Strainer on intank pump which is placed into a baffled area in the tank to ensure fuel all the time. Intank pumps to high pressure pump (no filter in between) High pressure through filter to fuel rail.

The reason you put a filter between pump and rail is to catch all the contaminants as the pump wears and stops it cloging the injectors.

I have never seen a factory system that does not have an efi filter between the injectors and efi pump.

I had a hilux come into work not long ago running poorly(3.8 v6) Checked it over to find no filter between pump and injectors and injectors where blocked to buggery. Surge tank was also of poor design and when traveling up steep hills it would loose fuel pressure.

I suggest a surge tank as there is no way of garanteeing you will have constant fuel pressure unless you keep more than 1/3 tank all the time

[Grega]

Strainer on intank pump which is placed into a baffled area in the tank to ensure fuel all the time. Intank pumps to high pressure pump (no filter in between) High pressure through filter to fuel rail.

This is the same way Peter has done his fuel setup - he has his intank pump with the strainer on the bottom feeding his hi pressure pump, then, the high pressure pump feeds fuel thru the filter then to the rail.

The Z200 is a VN/VP V6 fuel filter also funnily enough.

In addition, there have already been several comments in other threads about people not using surge tanks and having no problems.

Peter, is the tank you're using originally an EFI tank? Or is it a carby based tank?
What I'm getting at is carby tanks don't have the baffled area bansheebuzz is talking about, where EFI tanks do (although you'd question looking inside a VL or VN Commodore fuel tank how effective the baffles are)

My 2c.

[infotechplus]

Strainer on intank pump which is placed into a baffled area in the tank to ensure fuel all the time. Intank pumps to high pressure pump (no filter in between) High pressure through filter to fuel rail.

Now that you mention it I do remember seeing the fuel filter further to the front of the VL. I was getting confused with the regulator I think.

This is the same way Peter has done his fuel setup - he has his intank pump with the strainer on the bottom feeding his hi pressure pump, then, the high pressure pump feeds fuel thru the filter then to the rail.

Intank lift pump has original strainer. Z200 fuel filter is before the BOSCH main fuel pump.

I will fit another filter between the pump and the fuel rail. This should work okay?

Peter, is the tank you're using originally an EFI tank? Or is it a carby based tank?

Original carby tank modified to accept VL intank pump but no internal baffling from what I could see/hear. I'm well aware of the need to keep the fuel levels up in the tank, which I will do as much as possible.

Cheers,

Peter