Holy Sh*t TA22 Steering Improvement!!!

**Mr DOHC** · 07-06-2007, 11:43 AM

i love box

**skiddz** · 07-06-2007, 11:46 AM

lol so random phil

r&p > turd in a box steering

**Slimmy** · 07-06-2007, 11:57 AM

Originally Posted by river

Hi,

Nice work, but you should also check your steering idler arms, pitman arm and bushes for wear. If they've never been replaced then these will be getting quite worn and you don't want to mask the problem by adjusting the steering box.

seeyuzz
river

Very good advice! My 22 had serious play in the streering, and upon closer inspection it was found that the pitman arm was completely buggered. One new pitman arm later, and the thing steers like a dream!

**YLD-16L** · 07-06-2007, 12:01 PM

I replaced the oil in my steering box a few months back and used what the Toyota manual recommended, which was 90wt gear oil. Made a small but noticeable difference.

The biggest difference was replacing every steering component with new parts, that was certainly a noticeable difference. R&P would be even better but I couldn't be arsed.

**Invid** · 08-06-2007, 08:56 AM

Be careful when you buy new pitman arms for a 22, most of the manuals list the same part for a 22 and a 23. The pitman arms are different and will not fit into your 22. If you can bring in your old one to check the length.

cheers
I.

**lexsmaz** · 08-06-2007, 03:31 PM

Make sure when you adjust your steering box the box is centralised ie; the road wheels in the straight ahead position ..Due to steering box designs they will always have some backlash off the straight ahead position & if you adjust the box without the box in the central position it will cause your box to bind in the straight ahead position, which will effect the self centering of the steering ie; An example of self centering is to drive down a flat wide road turn the steering slightly & let go of the wheel, if the box is not overtigtened the steering will centralise, if it is overtigtened the steering will remain in the same position you had it in & you will run off the road.. The castor in the front end is centralising the steering, but if the box is too tight it cannot physically straighten up the steering.. Which in turn will wear the box out very quickly.. & not as nice to drive either.. After / during the adjusting of the steering box jack up the front wheels & turn the steering from lock to lock, in the straight ahead position the steering should be slightly firmer but definately not tight ... Hope this makes sense & help's ...

**joey** · 09-06-2007, 04:48 PM

Well i went ahead and tightened the steering box today, easily enough done and helped a little bit but i still have a good 6cm of freeplay in both directions from the centre of the steering wheel

How hard would it be for a noob to change the steering idler/pitman arm?
Cheers, Joey

**stidnam** · 09-06-2007, 06:22 PM

Idler arm will be really easy providing you have a tie rod end puller. Just undo the nut that bolts it to the steering relay, undo the nut that bolts it to the chassis and use the puller to separate from the steering relay.

Pitman arm on the other hand could be a little difficult from my recent experience. I only had the car up on stands and was bracing myself under the car in all possible positions and could not break the nut loose on the bottom. I just got so fed up with it in the end I ripped the whole steering box out, put it in a vice to get some leverage and got it off that way. Also note that you'll need a pitman arm puller for the pitman arm. Most tie rod pullers won't get around the pitman arm but you'll probably be able to use the pitman arm puller to get the idler arm off the steering relay as well.

I ended up replacing everything I could while I was at it with exception of the steering box. Including inner and outer tie rod ends and balljoints and steering box oil. Replaced all the bushings while I was there as well and put a new swaybar up the front while I had it all apart

.

I still haven't driven it so I can't comment on what improvement it has made. Looking forward to it though.

Before going too wild though i'd be checking where the looseness is coming from or at least having a look. Check to see if you can feel/see any play at any of those points. You might not be able to get anything tighter if your steering box is still the problem.

Oh and btw I have a spare brand new idler arm for a TA22 that i'm never going to use and would probably be willing to sell

stidnam

**CrUZida** · 28-10-2008, 12:31 PM

Does anyone know if this is possible on a YN60 'lux with a power steering box ?

I'd have a quick look at there doesn't appear to be any simple top to remove to tighten something.
Its $700 to rebuild the box on there, so I'm trying to avoid that.

**bnicho** · 29-10-2008, 10:36 AM

Agreed, I adjusted the steering box pon the RT132 a couple of months back and it made heaps of difference.

Another way to double-check you haven't overtightened the adjustment is drive to a big flat empty space (eg: a carpark), put in on full lock one way and drive slowly forwards with your hands OFF the wheel. Then repeat at full lock the other way. If the steering box is too tight the car will be reluctant to self-correct to the straight-ahead position. If it's way too tight the car will just keep driving in circles without self-correcting at all!

**CLG** · 30-10-2008, 01:30 AM

Originally Posted by CrUZida

Does anyone know if this is possible on a YN60 'lux with a power steering box ?

I'd have a quick look at there doesn't appear to be any simple top to remove to tighten something.
Its $700 to rebuild the box on there, so I'm trying to avoid that.

Some P/S boxes have an adjuster shaft and lock nut on the side of the box - check to see if you have an access hole near the box, you may need to cut one into the body if it's present without an access hole?!