Help with 2VZ engine. harmoic balancer Off and sump ON

[RT104GT]

The book says 2200 kg/m3 280nM.

We cant budge it and dont have an air tool.

We bent a 19mm spanner and a breaker bar on the tension wrench is a joke.

Any ideas?

We have the flex plate locked with a special tool we made.

Engine just wants to turn over on engine stand

No sump gaskets so its the old Toyota Seal Packing Black at $35 per tube.

Anyone done a sump with sealant only and whats the goss.


We stopped using this stuff on a GTI and used a Barina gasket and never have had a leak since.
They dont make gaskets for 2VZ's.

[2jzhilux]

longer piece of tube over the breaker bar and get someone to hold the engine
or one of these if your really stuck they work great
http://www.collinsid.com.au/Automoti...t+Wrench.phtml
also hitting the bolt on the front with the socket and breaker bar on it might jarr it loose
the sealer works fine too

[RT104GT]

longer piece of tube over the breaker bar and get someone to hold the engine
or one of these if your really stuck they work great
http://www.collinsid.com.au/Automoti...t+Wrench.phtml
also hitting the bolt on the front with the socket and breaker bar on it might jarr it loose
the sealer works fine too

We hit the breaker bar with a sledge the bar rebounded and the extension flew up hit the roof and took out a flouro on the way down.

[JetspeedCamry]

I made a tool to do this, as I was also having trouble.
Ill take a picture of it tomorrow.
Basically its a big flat steel plate, with a cutout in the centre, and 2 bolts that go into the holes on the balancer. With one person holding it, and me undoing the nut, it came off without a drama.

[Dale]

Soak it in some inox etc for a while, put a longer bit of pipe over the breaker bar, have someone hold the engine on the stand and give it your best shot.. try to crack it without using a hammer first if possible as it's sure to just rebound again
It should only be about 200 lbs/ft? Shouldn't be hard to get that sort of torque on it with a 2 - 4 ft bar (assuming 1/2 inch drive).. Sounds like there's loctite on there

[RT104GT]

Soak it in some inox etc for a while, put a longer bit of pipe over the breaker bar, have someone hold the engine on the stand and give it your best shot.. try to crack it without using a hammer first if possible as it's sure to just rebound again
It should only be about 200 lbs/ft? Shouldn't be hard to get that sort of torque on it with a 2 - 4 ft bar (assuming 1/2 inch drive).. Sounds like there's loctite on there

Thanks we will stand the engine up and fill the bolt area with penetrene or RP7 or WD40 and leave it for the weekend.

I think there is loctite in its thread.

If these bolts are left loose the keyway will not guarantee a timing pulley misalignment.

but usually the engine is in car not on a stand so its a bit like doing up a bolt in outser space. The engine stand tries to pivot.

The torque in the 2VZFE book is an astounding 2,500 kg-cm or 181 Ft Lbs or 245 N-m.

By comparison the head bolts are only 1100 80 108 which are the camshaft gear bolts (12mm 1000 70 105)

[RT104GT]

I made a tool to do this, as I was also having trouble.
Ill take a picture of it tomorrow.
Basically its a big flat steel plate, with a cutout in the centre, and 2 bolts that go into the holes on the balancer. With one person holding it, and me undoing the nut, it came off without a drama.

Thanks I saw the SST is like that bolt into the balancer using the 12mm bolt holes and then use the wrench.

That will work fine as its double force in effect.

I can make one out of 1/4 inch thick flat steel or an old leaf spring. I will drill two holes for the pulley and one for the socket to go through and bolt it on with high tensile 12mm bolts.


I have a long arm for doing the rotors on a three rotor ride-mower at my work and it uses 3/4 inch square so I will need to reduce it or find a 19MM socket that fits it.
Even the rotor cutters on a rida-mower spinning at 3500 rpm are not bolted down with 2500???

[RT104GT]

THANKS ALL JOB's RIGHT

[Mos]

The most difficult crankshaft pulley bolt we had to undo was on a 1G. Had to bolt a car ramp to the flywheel (the only thing long and strong enough), with one person standing on the rear of the engine, another on the front, with a very long pipe over the breaker bar...

So it worked with the SST style tool?

Mos.

[RT104GT]

The most difficult crankshaft pulley bolt we had to undo was on a 1G. Had to bolt a car ramp to the flywheel (the only thing long and strong enough), with one person standing on the rear of the engine, another on the front, with a very long pipe over the breaker bar...

So it worked with the SST style tool?

Mos.

Yes and the workshop 3/4 inch rotor breaker bar.

[ajh]

In regards to your sealant question,

Our SV21 (3S-FE) doesn't have a sump gasket either.

I used Permatex Ultra Black on ours and it's fine. $15.95 a tube.

[Grega]

i had this problem on my VN V6
i managed to crack an impact gun socket!
i ended up getting the bolt undone by using a butane torch on the bolt to heat it up then pouring water on it to cool it down quickly.
this was even with the engine still in the car - even via the starter motor it would not budge until the heat/cool method was applied. was interesting to watch the whole motor rocking in its mounts and the thing not budging

ps: a great breaker bar can be made from chopping off one of the eye ends of a VN commodore panhard rod. awesome breaker bar.

[Grega]

oh yeah and the sealant for the sump gasket - permatex ultra black FTW!

[TooF]

ive always used loctite grey sealant works a treat.