power windows...one of them doesn't work

[KLR16V]

hi guys,

i went for a cruise last friday in my aw11 mr2 and my passenger window would not go up, however it would go down...eventually it go stuck down the bottom and i could do nothing. then after about 1/2 an hour it work fine for a litte while, then it stopped and wouldnt go up. and since then i cant get it to come back up.

i tried running 12v to teh window motor but that didnt work...and from what i can see theere is nothing jamming the window. and everything was working fine up untill now

any ideas?

cheers, Dan

[CrUZida]

Mine is the same.
I'm assuming its the switch.

[Cuzzo]

Usually power windows work by applying 12v's one way for up then if you reverse the polarity and apply it again it should go the opposite direction. Im not sure if this is the cause however it should be.

Either your switch is buggered. If you could be bothered swap switches with the drivers side, or get a multimeter and test the switch.

Or you motor can only go one way, but this shouldnt matter cause if it goes one way it should go the other.

Maybe there is too much resistance when you try up and it thinks its closed all the way already.

These are all ideas becuase i have never worked on an AW11.

[river]

Hi,

Also, I have never worked on the power windows of an AW11, but I have on the RA25.

If you have an amp gauge in the car and it dips when you press the switch to go up, then power is getting to the motor but it is jammed. If there is no dip in the amp gauge then no power is getting to the motor and therefore I'd be looking at the switch/wiring as the culprit.

The window slides up and down inside two runners - one at the front of the window and one in the rear. These runners are in the door. Sometimes the window can slip out of one or both runners and it jams. Also a thin smear of silicon grease along the runners can help - assuming the window is in the runners and is jamming on them.

Also get a multimeter out and measure the wires coming out of the switch to see that power is actually getting to the switch. Also put the multimeter on the contacts that go into the motor and see that you get +12 and -12 (ie polarity changes for up/down motion) when you use the switch. This will tell you if the switch is broken (ie power getting to the switch but not to the motor) or if there's a broken/loose wire (power not getting into the switch).

If the power is all there, and the amp gauge dips, then it's a jam. If power is all there (to the motor) and there's no dip in the amp gauge then the motor has a problem - but I'd expect the motor to be okay if it can go down and not up.

Hope this helps.

seeyuzz
river

[peedman]

Well you know that it is either the motor or the switch. Can the passenger and drivers side switches be easily removed and swap tested? You could also just take your door trims out and unplug the loom from the motor relay and give it a good spray cleaner. Might be just loose or bad contacts.

I know with my (non-toyota) power windows that I just removed and replaced, the previous motor was buggered and all it did was 'click' when depressed. Takes about a few hours to replace everything as the regulator has to come out.

[Toy77]

hey mate,

i recently had a simmilar prob in my verada.

i pulled the master switches out, opened it up, and cleaned the terminals inside the switch. works now.

Cheers
Stew

[Negative Boost]

Sounds like the same kind of problem experienced by my mate with his AW11 passenger window. I kept telling him it was the switch but i dont think he believed me untill we got another one from the UK and that fixed the problem! Window works perfectly now

[KLR16V]

no its not the switch. neither driver or pasenger switches work...and i tested it with the multimeter and the switch works fine.

Hi,


If you have an amp gauge in the car and it dips when you press the switch to go up, then power is getting to the motor but it is jammed. If there is no dip in the amp gauge then no power is getting to the motor and therefore I'd be looking at the switch/wiring as the culprit.

river

and yes the amp dips when i press the switch.

i took the door trim off and it looks like a big job to get the motor out...esp as the window is down.
but i wil get around to that when i have time.


thanks for your help guys

[river]

Hi,

and yes the amp dips when i press the switch.

Okay, it sounds like your switch and wiring is fine, and power is getting to the motor. I'd be looking to see if it's jammed somewhere.

seeyuzz
river

[peedman]

It isnt as hard as it looks. Can you reach the rubber clamps that hold the glass? You need to unbolt them, then you can slide the window up and tape it up using duct tape so its out of the way. Then unbolt the regulator from the door and wiggle it and the motor out. I'd start from there. Much harder to remove the motor without removing the regulator.

[CrUZida]

I've just fixed a window that was jammed up.
I ended up pulling the door panel off an applying 12v directly to the motor from a fully charged battery.
It was enough to losen it up, works fine now.

But I have no idea how long its been since it was last used, where as yours was previously working.
I'd start by getting to the motor wires and putting a battery straight on it.

[KLR16V]

I've just fixed a window that was jammed up.
I ended up pulling the door panel off an applying 12v directly to the motor from a fully charged battery.
It was enough to losen it up, works fine now.


I'd start by getting to the motor wires and putting a battery straight on it.

yeah mate...tried running 12v to the motor and nothing happend.

it must be jammed...i must need to check the window out again to see if there is a jam