Re: GZ20 auto to maunal conversion
Reply With QuoteI thought i would write it all out. If i have missed anything i am sure someone can edit it and repost it so that it goes down as an article for future convertors.
To remove the gearbox firstly disconnect the shifter mechanism. This means some interior trims will have to be removed.
Then undo the tailshaft , its often easiest to take the exhaust off to do this. Drain the auto for fluid before undoing the crossmember. Undo the crossmember to allow the engine to sag onto the engine mounts and allow access to the top bellhousing bolts. Stuff a rag in the dust cover at the rear of the auto, to stop leakage onto your head. Now remove the bellhousing bolts on the underside of the engine first. Leave the two middle bolts in, but loose for the time being. When you remove the starter motor bolts hold the starter to avoid dropping it onto something it can short out to. Or remove the battery terminals before starting.
With a couple of long extensions you can locate the top e rear bellhousing bolts with your socket. You may need to use a universal bit as well. It takes two long and one short extension bars at least to access these bolts.
Remove the loom, auto kickdown cable, speedo drive .
At the rear of the engine there is a rubber grommet to the auto. Remove it with a srewdriver and undo the 6 or 8 bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flex plate.
Position a transmission stand under the auto and slide the box out, remember its heavy so take care to not drop it.
Unbolt the flex plate, you mave have to stop the engine fromn turning over with a screwdriver wedged against the block or through the holes inthe flex plate.
Take a close look at the position of the seal.
Remove the rear main seal carefully with a small scredriver and clean the seal area. Seal costs about $56 so be careful when you put the new one in that you have it well coated with the Toyota oil sealant and only put it in flush with the block. Where it was in other words.
Insert the spigot bearing into the end of the crankshaft. Bolt up the flywheel with new bolts, $2 each so its a small price to pay. Torque the bolts up to the specified torque setting. Loosely bolt up the clutch plate (the side with the protuding springs faces the rear of the car) and pressure plate and align then tighten to specified torque.
Insert gearbox and bolt up the bellhousing and starter motor. Bolt up the crossmember and tailshaft. Using the rear section of your tailshaft add the front from a ma70 manual and you should be fine. Now is a good time to put the speedo drive back in. Then put the shifter in and interior back in place, you will need the rubber boots, insulators to stop the hot air travelling into the car.
Put the slave cylinder in and bolt the master into it and pedals. Run the hard lines to the clutch and fill the master with clutch fluid. Get your mate to help you to bleed the clutch.
Fill the reservoir and hold open the bleed nipple. Insert a length of clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple and the other end into a bottle. This way you can see when the air bubbles stop coming through. When it begins to flow out close it off. Open the bleeder and have your mate depress the pedal and hold it in while you close off the bleeder. Lift the pedal and repeat this step until the fluid has no bubbles in the clear hose. Close it firm and take it for a test drive......well almost. You had better fill the gearbox with the appropriate oil through the bung in the side.
It won't start because the neutral start switch needs to be fused. In the engine bay near the passenger firewall there is a plug from the auto that needs to be connected to allow it to start.
Reverse lights are well worth connecting now also.
Then drive it!
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