4M - quick questions

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Is a 4M supposed to have a harmonic balancer?

Is the line cut out in the crank pulley defiantly TDC? (ive set the timing to 6-8deg on this marking, but the rev's drop and it spits fuel from the tail pipe, however its a standard 34ADM Weber, which need to be setup for a 2.6ltr)

Thanks for any help.
(for reference, this is not a 4M-E, this is the FIRST 4M vr. with the rounded cam cover with "OHC" written on the front, not the square cam cover)

[M.J.H]

Is a 4M supposed to have a harmonic balancer?

Is the line cut out in the crank pulley defiantly TDC? (ive set the timing to 6-8deg on this marking, but the rev's drop and it spits fuel from the tail pipe, however its a standard 34ADM Weber, which need to be setup for a 2.6ltr)

Thanks for any help.
(for reference, this is not a 4M-E, this is the FIRST 4M vr. with the rounded cam cover with "OHC" written on the front, not the square cam cover)

Yeah the line should be TDC but when I fitted the 5ME dist and coil to the one I had it would carry on and not run right at the factory settings.

In the end I just set the timing by ear and all was good after that.

[joecoolmk2]

the pulley with the notch in it IS the harmonic balancer.

the pulley should have other marks on it to show 5degrees BTDC, 10degrees BTDC etc

standard timing is 8 degrees BTDC, but they go better on about 10-12

i don't know anything about the carby you mentioned, but if it has a mechanical secondary throat, you should tweak it a little to make it open a little earlier i did this with my standard carb and they go harder

[kugzs]

i ve got a mate who is building a 4m for his mx13.

he is wondering what is it possible to run twin solex's or SU's on the 4m.

thanks in advance for the help

[joecoolmk2]

i ve got a mate who is building a 4m for his mx13.

he is wondering what is it possible to run twin solex's or SU's on the 4m.

thanks in advance for the help

yeah, you can, but if you're going to the trouble, you might as well go triple side draught- it'll go harder and look a lot neater.

i was gonna triple crab mine a few years ago, rang a crowd in victoria that made the manifolds, but i can't remember who they were and whether they still do.

anyway, with triple carbs, the intake runners can be straight, cuz the port spacing on the head is very close to the throat spacing of the carbs. it'd be pretty easy to make your own manifold, if you have a bit of smarts and can weld

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Thanks for the replies, ill have another look at it tonight, ive probably used the 5degree notch...

Kugs: as joecoolmk2 said, there is no point in going to all the work of putting 2 SU's on, when it would be the same amount of work for triple side draught carbies, such as weber DCOE's.
I'll be doing this soon, im just going to modify the 4M intake manifold to take the webers, if u are interested ill send you some pics or something.
I'd only be doing it for fun, but really u shouldnt spend any money on a 4M, get a 5M-GE, 6M-GE or 7M-GE (twin cam vr's). They are very cheap as well.

[kugzs]

cheers mate, pics would be good.

[gianttomato]

Very hard to set up triple Webers for the 4M - the distributor is right in the way of the inlet port of cylinder 1. I ended up going triple SUs and would definately recommend against it.



There are standard twin SU and twin downdraft manifolds for the early M series engines. Very easy to modify the manifolds to take English SU carbs (the Aisan CV carbs have a different bolt pattern) or the down draft mani to take a couple of DD Webers.

Best bet would be to run an old EA throttle body fuel injection plate with an old school ECU. Might cost you a few hundred bucks. If you were keener, cut and shut a later EFI manifold on to the old style manifold and run it with a 5ME ECU. That said, I wouldn't bother with an internally standard 4M.

7M crank, 5MGE pistons with a ported 41013 2M head might get the capacity and compression you need and still keep that old school look. You need to do a bit of work to make that all happen.

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Thanks gianttomato, i just had a look and the dizzy is in the way, no way you can fit a DCOE in line for the 1st cylinders port.

The 5M-GE is the same, however im not sure about the 6M-GE, but i think the 7M-GE has a different dizzy location. Something to think about while sourcing parts for 2JZ-GE conversion

[gianttomato]

My advice would be get the 2JZ and don't waste a microsecond on the 4M other than routine and preventative maintenance.

[Screamn_Sleeka]

My advice would be get the 2JZ and don't waste a microsecond on the 4M other than routine and preventative maintenance.

haha, sounds like good advice.

Preventative maintenance is what im trying to do now with the timing, which i just checked again and need some more help lads...

With a marking on the slit of the pulley and on the 0, 5, 10, 15 degree markings on the block ive re-done the timing. Ive set it to 8 degrees. It stalls at idel, has no throttle response, blows even more black smoke and spits petrol, it also cant accel and sounds 'bad'.
Which all sounds like very retarded timing.

When i set the timing to what i think sounds good, the timing marks read about 30 degree's advanced at idel???

Does it sound like something is wrong here? I was previously running it at this supposedly "30 degree advanced", and drove it for hours. If it really was this advanced id expect the rings to be ripped apart, but the engine still has good compression and doesnt seem to have been damaged.

NB: The timing light is on the first cylinder spark plug and correctly pointing to the plug.

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Maybe the rubber is worn and the pulley has spun on the balancer, meaning the marks dont line up anymore?
If it was 30deg advance at idle, It would probably be idling very high and pinging on the road.

My old M has the XF weber and 5me ignition, idles quite rich but doesnt suffer any other symtoms

As GT said - 2jzge ftw!

Cheers
-Phil

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Ah, yes thats quite possible, the rubber could have slipped, causing a faulse reading, thanks Pure_In_Sanity.

Can you tell me what is involved with the 5M-E ignition?
Complete 5M-E dizzy,
ignitor,
coil,
Igniter.
All bolts in?

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Yep, dizzy, coil, igniter.
The dizzy will drop straight in, but i remember having to modify something around the clamp, but it was all straight forward.
I noticed a lot more top end straight away.

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Awesome thanks,
Im going to find TDC tomorrow and see when the notch on the pulley is to see if the rubber connection is worn.