No. It means there's something wrong with the engine and/or engine management. You need to check the 'engine fault codes'. Plenty of info here to find out how to do this.Originally Posted by Thraxeh
When i have the aircon running and i'm at the lights, when i accelerate most times the car seems like its going to stall, and it cuts out, and then the engine kicks back in. it revs up, cuts out, then revs up again.
while it does this the engine light flicks on then off. Its like theres a vacuum leak or something.
car is 1990 SV21 wagon. Could this just be that its an old car ?
No. It means there's something wrong with the engine and/or engine management. You need to check the 'engine fault codes'. Plenty of info here to find out how to do this.Originally Posted by Thraxeh
Last edited by MacroP; 24-11-2006 at 03:04 PM.
MX83 1UZ Conversion. UZZ31 engine, UCF10 Sump, UZS131 Tranny and engine fan idler. Custom exhaust and 147rwKWs.
you have no idleup by the sound of it
agreed with mick.
Only the shittiest of wines come in 5 litres
boosted 3rz hilux *new project* mwahaha
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...940#post134940
idleup ? whats that? this is the code i getOriginally Posted by kingmick
Code 43 is "Starter Signal"
No STA signal to ECU when vehicle stopped and engine running at over 800RPM.
Problem area : Ignition Switch Circuit, Ignition Switch, ECU.
what should i be looking at ?
ah ha.. so it is an electrical thing..
coils, ignitors, relays, ECU might have shat itself.. RPM signals maybe? even Crank angle sensor, tps, etc etc.... hm... question is, where should you start?
(at frist i was thinking it might be an ignition relay fault)
Research has shown child in front seat causes accidents, accident in back seat causes child
does it run rough at lights before you take off??
and is it only when the a/con system is running??
have you checked your a/con solenoid?? When the air con system is running, your engine should bump up the rpms via a solenoid switch. Take it to an auto elec, or even a normal mechanic. They should know where its located.
Thanks
Blake
If your camry has the 1S-Ci engine, the load signal fault code is 11
If you have the 3S-FE engine, the code is 51.
It would pay to check your wiring connections and check the A/C Amplifier (Located under the glovebox) I can send you the info on this and a list of the fault codes if you don't have a w/s manual.
I had exactly the same problem with our SV21. Everything electrical checked out ok.
The problem is now cured, here's how :
Try the fault test, if all is ok, try removing your idle speed control valve, take it apart carefully and give it a thorough clean. Also, as you will need to remove the throttle body, clean it too.
Made the world of difference to ours. The ISC valve on ours was gummed up to the point where the shaft had barely any movement.
Clean it with carby cleaner BUT keep the stuff away from the electrical end of the valve as I've heard it can cause damage.
Let me know if you need any more info
Cheers,
Andrew
its the 3S-FE engine. As i said it returned this code
Code 43 is "Starter Signal"
No STA signal to ECU when vehicle stopped and engine running at over 800RPM.
Problem area : Ignition Switch Circuit, Ignition Switch, ECU.
I've never removed any of the things you mentioned (ISC valve, and the throttle body)
are these easy to remove and replace ?
There is a thread buried in this website somwhere. It has some pictures too.
Anyway, yes, it's an easy job to do.
Make sure you have the following : throttle body gasket ( paper so you can easily make one as I did), spare vacuum hose, spare coolant hose & clamps. If you're careful you can reuse the rubber gasket between the ISC valve and the throttle body.
Disconnect neg battery terminal (just in case)
Remove air intake duct and crankcase vent hose
Disconnect throttle cable and kickdown cable (if it's an auto)
Disconnect 2 coolant hoses and the vacuum hose from the ISC valve (underneath it)
(remember to top up radiator when finished as you will lose a little coolant)
Disconnect the wiring from the ISC valve ( don't worry it only goes on one way)
Undo the 4 bolts securing the throttle body to the manifold and remove the throttle body & ISC valve as an assembly.
Pretty straight forward from here, separate the ISC valve from the throttle body.
Go to town with the carby cleaner ( if it's anything like mine it'll be clogged up with crap)
Re - assembly is just the reverse of the above.
If need be, I have a picture in my w/s manual. I can scan and email it to you if it would help.
Hope all goes well.
Andrew.
thanks for the write up, i have a W.S that i found on the internet, and i will have a look through it tomorrow. Sourcing those gaskets and hoses wouldnt be to hard ? places like Auto-one should have them correct ?Originally Posted by ajh
Originally Posted by ThraxehThe reason it is giving the code 43, starter signal, is because the ecu is seeing the engine revs drop (when the engine stutters and goes to stall) without seeing a start signal at the same time. This code is a result of the problem, not the cause.Originally Posted by Vios-GT_07
Do as ajh has said and your problems will be solved.
Yeah, you should be able to get them from any spare parts place. If they don't have them they should be able to get them in for you. Worst case you can always go genuine.Originally Posted by Thraxeh
Brad
Old Corollas never die...
My KE30
Updated 15/7/2007............ yes, I need to pull my finger out.
You would need to go genuine for the rubber gasket between the ISC valve and the throttle body, HOWEVER if you separate the ISC valve from the throttle body carefully, you will be able to re - use the old one as I did with mine.
It's made from the same black rubber they use in o rings.
With the paper gasket, if you can't get one, just get a roll of gasket paper ( auto one would sell it) and trace around the throttle body and cut your own one. I did this as I already had the paper and I'm also known to be a tight arse!!
It's simply a square - ish gasket with about a 2 1/2 inch hole in the middle and four bolt holes, one in each corner.
As for the hoses, I mentioned having spares, only because I found myself doing a trip to the auto shop half way through the job. Lucky the wife hadn't taken my car!!!!
As you would know, once you disconnect old hoses, the usual thing is for them to split or break when being refitted.
On our car, the coolant hoses are roughly the same diameter as the vacuum hose ( about 8mm inside diameter I think ( just check to be sure). and as usual the clamps were so corroded I had to cut one of them off.
By the way, it would pay to plug the coolant hoses when you remove them, I only lost about a cup full of coolant by doing this.
Happy fixing!!!
Also, i forgot to mention, the car idles just over 1000rpm with no AC. i hope this confirms the ISC valve needing a clean..
I started the car with while shorting the diagnostics, and it came up with 43 again, but the revs dropped to 700rpm, then i stopped the car, started again with out doing the codes, and it went back to 1000rpm...
whats going on ? i think that means the ISC is fine
Last edited by Thraxeh; 02-12-2006 at 03:42 PM.
The easiest way to check the operation of the ISC valve is to start the car, then turn on the A/C. When the compressor cuts in, you should hear the engine idle speed dip slightly for about 1/2 a second, then go back up to normal idle speed.
When the compressor cuts out, the idle speed will go up slightly and drop back down to normal speed.
Put simply, its purpose is to maintain the idle spped at a constant level when various loads are put on the engine. EG: A/C, Power Steering, etc.
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