i agree with lambolica, finish the mods before buying rims, just in case
Yeah, but after I suggested for you to crop yours, I realised mine could do with the same...Originally Posted by TurboRA28
i agree with lambolica, finish the mods before buying rims, just in case
One thing to consider, with an RA28, is the width of the arse end. Tyhe 28 is some 4'' or more wider in the bum than a TA22/RA23. I had a set of 7 x14's, that some one had made up, they were a chromed Celica/Corona rim, with a Ford 12 slot centre mounted to them. The engineers was not too happy with the tyre hanging ou the guard at the front, (RA60/Cressida/Corona brake/caliper/strut) I had to have the offset reduced by 10mm. The nobs at the wheel shop actually decreased the offset by 10mm. So I gave them the other pair and this time they got it correct. I used the decreased offset rims on the arse end of the 28, and they filled out the guard very nicely.
But if you are going the MKII "F" rear end or HiLux, your offset will have to go to about 25mm to fill out the guards at the rear, and an offset of 35mm to account for the big brakes up front.
(Wonder why some guys buy Simmons wheels!!!)
cheers Chuck.
"What man can build, man can fix!"
MS51Crown Coupe,
GSV40R Aurion luxo tourer. One TA22 currently receiving some TLC prior to paint One RS56 Crown ute under construction, 2 x TA22's awaiting rebuilds. Toyota Crown RS47J ute in need of serious TLC. Toyota Crown Custom Wagon MS53 daily hauler stocko!
Damm everyone getting konig rewinds but me.
But they'll look great!
on a zero offset - 1365mm diff plus konigs = 1550
on a 1410mm diff plus konigs = 1585
so sticks out and extra 17.5mm each side when using larger diff.
so if you cant find a 1375mm hilum diff you need wheels that have 17-18mm gap inside the
arches.
so when you go to a 1410 they will sit flush.![]()
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Well, I think I better try and find the diff before I order the wheels then...
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