I would suggest having a look to find studs which match the orignal ones. If it proves too much effort to find then I guess grinding off the extra length should be okay.
Definatly wouldn't be using a press to cut their way through.
Hey all,
I have purchased some longer wheel studs for my AW11.
I installed the rears with a press while doing the bearings without any probs.
As i did/do not want to have to do the front bearings I tried to wind the studs in with a nut backwards with washers.
The force used to wind them in was enormous and it actually bent the stud.
On pulling it out the reason was made clear, the splines on the new studs go all the way to the shoulder and the old ones did not. Also the splines on the hubs also only go half way through the hole, so the stud was cutting new splines on its way in.
So to the question, is it better to:
a)mill or grind/file off the extra length of splines
b)use a press and let them cut their way through
c) find studs with the same length of splines as the origionals
d) other ideas?
Last edited by Hodgo; 08-11-2006 at 03:43 PM.
"A giant sheep will fall from the sky and save all you lucky people"
I would suggest having a look to find studs which match the orignal ones. If it proves too much effort to find then I guess grinding off the extra length should be okay.
Definatly wouldn't be using a press to cut their way through.
i would press them in, the original ones had to carve their own lines ..
if youre really concerned, machine the splines off (prefereably with a lathe) to the same length that the old ones are.
keep in mind that they are meant to cut in so that they are in a fixed position and they are most likely longer with the splines past the original ones so that they DO cut into the metal and index themselves.. if the splines are loose at all when youve got a wheel nut on them you stand the chance of them having play and once they spin a little bit they will start spinning and be near impossible to remove.
Press them in under their own steam I did that on 280ZX ones and no drama.Originally Posted by Hodgo
I did it on a holden axle and they broke, so providing they are Jap they should be ok.
1968 RT40S Corona 1600S series II (restore in progress)
1973 RT104-MQFG 012604 Corona GT JDM (Owned since 1976 242000 km)
1989 ST185-BLMVZ-0007199 Celica GT4 JDM (unmolested classic 95000 km)
2012 ZN-6 86GT (shed find 5000 km in 6 years)
I would press them in. Turning off the extra spline might be o.k, but one needs to remember that a lot of heat treatments don't penetrate the metal very far and you may compromise the strength of the item at the point where it matters most (that is on the outer side of the flange, where all of the shear force is). It is not likely to appeal to an engineer if they are turned off.
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
yup, machining marks on bolts = not the best idea... especially when your life may depend on them.
take off hubs, press them in properly![]()
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Many thanks all.
Kinda cleared it up in my mind.
I was just trying to get away without pulling apart the hubs.
"A giant sheep will fall from the sky and save all you lucky people"
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