The engine torque mount is the one located next to the timing belt. Removing it alone will be fine, as there a 3 other mounts supporting the engine. Curious as to why you'd need to remove it when resealing a sump...
When resealing the sump on a 3S-FE in a Camry, the w/s manual says to unbolt the engine torque mount and remove the centre member.
I just want to make sure I've read this correctly. I'm assuming, "torque mount" means an engine mount that stops the engine "twisting" under load and does not actually support weight. The weight is supported by the other mounts. Am I correct?????
Being the first front drive car I've owned, I'm not overly familiar with their design. And the way these Haynes w/s manuals are written, sometimes they're bloody confusing!!!
Thanks,
Andrew
The engine torque mount is the one located next to the timing belt. Removing it alone will be fine, as there a 3 other mounts supporting the engine. Curious as to why you'd need to remove it when resealing a sump...
Kind Regards,
Kurt.
1998 ER34 ニッサン スカイラインGT- T
RB25DET 5 Speed Manual | Blitz SE Return Flow FMIC | Greddy Profec II Spec B BC | Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust
I've removed the mount from the timing cover end of the engine before when I replaced a timing belt. Going by what this book is saying ( I did mention it's confusing), they show a photo of the underside of the engine bay, where you can see the centre member with the exhaust running next to it. The photo shows a plastic plug in the centre member, it says to remove the plug which will expose 2 bolts (apparently for the torque mount). undo the 2 bolts, then undo the mounting bolts on the centre member and remove it, to gain access to the sump bolts. ( It does say to remove the engine pipe as well, however I'm fine with that bit)
As I mentioned, I'm wondering if I need to support the engine when I do this.
Cheers
Andrew
Ahh..yeah it's refering to a different mount than i was thinking. You can remove that "centre mount" (torque mount ) without any dramas. Just undo the bolts and drop the member to give access to the sump. The engine is still being supported but its 4 main engine mounts (unless you plan to remove the N-S member aswell, in which case, you'd need to support the engine.
Kind Regards,
Kurt.
1998 ER34 ニッサン スカイラインGT- T
RB25DET 5 Speed Manual | Blitz SE Return Flow FMIC | Greddy Profec II Spec B BC | Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust
Thanks for the advice,
I just thought it best to make sure before I go unbolting anything.
Cheers,
Andrew
I thought the center crossmember would be the NS one.. or do camry's have an extra crossmember than celicas, corollas etc?
Although if the haynes manual makes no reference to supporting the engine you wouldn't need to, they always make mention of supporting it when needed.. else they'd be up for some hefty lawsuits
I am the sun
^ It is, hence why i'm confused as to why you'd only be removing the centre mount only, to remove the entire crossmember. There are 3 mounts bolted to it, which include the front and rear main engine mounts..this is why i suggested that if your going to remove those, then best to support the engine.
Kind Regards,
Kurt.
1998 ER34 ニッサン スカイラインGT- T
RB25DET 5 Speed Manual | Blitz SE Return Flow FMIC | Greddy Profec II Spec B BC | Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust
If you are only going to reseal the sump, you should be able to remove all the cross members from under the motor without any problems. As long as any top ones are still done up. About a month ago we replace the main seal in the daughter inlaws wagon. We got the gearbox out and back in all with out needing to support the motor.
If it feels good "DO IT" Unless it harms others.(or upsets the RTA)
Enjoy what you have To Day,cause you can't take it with you.
My old Hi-Ace
edited 10 char
Last edited by Dale; 30-10-2006 at 03:44 PM.
I am the sun
If you are only going to reseal the sump, you should be able to remove all the cross members from under the motor without any problems. As long as any top ones are still done up. About a month ago we replace the main seal in the daughter inlaws wagon. We got the gearbox out and back in all with out needing to support the motor.
Theres nothing wrong with doing it like that. It will hold itself no problem with two mounts. it just swings back and forward.I put a sissor jack underneath the gearbox to stablize it while i tightened things up.Originally Posted by Dale
Last edited by Aust162; 30-10-2006 at 01:34 PM.
*hearts* his 4age powered KE70 Panelvan!
Hi, Im enthused about corollas..
Sorry about putting a photo here, but as you can see, no cross members,no engine supports, no gearbox.
I don't say much, unless I know what I'm saying is right.
If it feels good "DO IT" Unless it harms others.(or upsets the RTA)
Enjoy what you have To Day,cause you can't take it with you.
My old Hi-Ace
^ Does that mean that the entire engine was resting on the 1 mount next to the timing belt?
Kind Regards,
Kurt.
1998 ER34 ニッサン スカイラインGT- T
RB25DET 5 Speed Manual | Blitz SE Return Flow FMIC | Greddy Profec II Spec B BC | Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust
As already questioned above me?
At any rate, you're more game than me if that's what you did
I am the sun
Thanks for all the replies,
I think, going by what's been said I will remove the centre member as described. HOWEVER, to be on the safe side I'll put a jack under the transmission for peace of mind.
Thanks again,
Andrew
Andrew, safe is always best.
All I was trying to do is answer this question.
Good luck with your job, as we now have a sump leak to fix.As I mentioned, I'm wondering if I need to support the engine when I do this.
If it feels good "DO IT" Unless it harms others.(or upsets the RTA)
Enjoy what you have To Day,cause you can't take it with you.
My old Hi-Ace
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