GUIDE timing belt and water pump replacement JZZ30 soarer 100K service

[fingers]

Simply awesome! That will definately come in handy.

+ rep fo you.

[chris davey]

great write up. Definiltey would have taken some time.

My car is a hell of a lot easier to work on than a Soarer!

[Hybrid]

Awesome guide. Should be added to the FAQ section?

+ rep.

[Admiral coFF33]

by far the best guide ever, working through it now , about half way ...

Love u Barned !!!!

xoxx

[stidnam]

Yes rather helpful guide I must say. Just pulled the front of my 1j apart the other night.

Got a question though. The hydraulic tensioner. Do these often wear and need replacing? Is it usual to get a little slack in the timing belt when you turn it back a little anti clockwise? Just working out if I need to replace it now seeing as though its only $133 from toyota :S.

stidnam

[chris davey]

question:
is the part number for the water pump the non hydro 2jz-gte one or what?

[Admiral coFF33]

Im personally having difficulty with :
Step 5 replacing the seals
5.1 Remove the lower sensor bolt with 5mm hex bit
5.2 remove lower timing belt cog by using 2x6m bolts on either side of the cog, my bolts slightly touched the crank shaft so that as I tightened the bolts, it pulled the cog forward.



When i place the 2x6m bolts in , and screw them in to touch the crank section, they bend outwards and start scoring the crank and doesnt move the cog at all ....

anyone have any other DIY way of getting this off apart from using a puller of some sort (which i doubt could be used as there is no room behind the cog to get the arms of a puller in there)

plz let me know im stuck !!!

[wilbo666]

Mr coFF,

Make a puller?

Get a piece of flat bar, drill two M6 clearance holes in it, get some M6 bolts that are long enough to go into the pulley, but not long enough to hit the crank and then when you turn the M6 bolts, the pulley will come off



Surely they have steel and drills and drill bits and bolts in WA?



Cheers
Wilbo

[Admiral coFF33]

i wish we could get married wilbo .. seriously

[HAVABEER]

i just used washers over the bolts when i did mine

[Admiral coFF33]

success !!!

Havabeer is on the money , used a piece of flatbar and kept spacing out the 6M bolts till i got the cog right to the edge of the crank where it met with the flatbar.. then thanks to wilbo , used a 20mm socket and put it on the end of the crank to space the flatbar out from the cog and just kept on pulling ...


woo hoo!


Also another question !!! ....


Seeing as it was so fucking hard for me to get the crank cog off the crank, how the shit do ya put it back on ? surely you dont use a mallot or something ?

[HAVABEER]

as per the guide, give it a wire brushing.

give it a layer of oil.

use a RUBBER mallet to tap it back on, just make sure you put it on straight.

[Admiral coFF33]

cool


kinda hard to not put it on straight as the keyhole things have to line up for it to even go on .5 of a mm

[Azzamk2]

im doing this to mine now (first time to ever replace timing belt ect) when i get my engine on TDC and the top timing pulleys aligned with the marks. The mark on the harmonic balencer is reading 5 on the bottem timing cover and yours is on ' 0 ' ??? just getting worried about everything lol

[chris davey]

you should line it up with the marks on the bottom timing cover first. i have found that my top marks could be a tiny bit off when the bottom was on zero. If you have skipped a tooth it will be 6deg different from memory. Some soarer guys were just skipping a tooth on the exhaust cam instead of buying adjustable cam gears