GUIDE timing belt and water pump replacement JZZ30 soarer 100K service

[barned01]

This thread is an extension of the following thread
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3514
It is the steps I undertook to perform the 100K service on a JZZ30 Toyota Soarer
it is relevant to the 1JZ Engine 2.5TT with a normal clutch style radiator fan.
If you have a hydraulic fan then the water pump bit will probably be different (JZA70 hashydraulic style fan for instance and i think JZX90 does also), others on this forum will be able to let you know what is required to swap over from each sort of pump, unfortunately I cannot help you with this.

Please note that if you follow these steps to perform the 100k service yourself, it may differ slightly due to my memory to write every single detail down lapsing over the course of this exercise.
Also I take no responsibility if you follow this guide and somehow munt your engine or loose a finger or other significant body part. Use at your own risk.

Following that, enjoy
Tools Required:

• 10mm socket and spanner

• 12mm socket and spanner

• 14mm socket and spanner

• 22 mm socket

• breaker bar and breaker bar extension (a pipe or something to go over your breaker bar)

• 10mm hex key bit (allen key bit)

• 5mm hex key bit (allen key bit)

• pliers, bull nose and needle nose

• marking device, i used some of my spare nail polish (joking)

• flat head screw driver

• Some way to tighten a crank bolt in your driveway to some rediculous value

Reccommended Parts To Perform Service:

timing belt.....................................135684902 5
water pump.......................................1610049 846
spark plugs......................................ngk bkr6e
oil..............................................M obil 1 (5w50 fully synthetic) or whatever your preferred poison is
oil filter.......................................90915 20003 or 9091520001
transmission fluid...............................dexron III or toyota type IV
timing belt tensioner............................1350546020
crankshaft seal..................................9031146001
camshaft seal x2.................................9031138041
thermostat.......................................9 091603093
Thermostat Gasket................................1632562010
upper thermostat housing gasket..................1634388400(confirming)
waterpump to thermostat housing o-rings x2.......9676124023(confirming) or an o-ring from cbc bearing of the following dimensions will work: Width 21.9mm ID 2.62mm)
coolant..........................................s tandard toyota red coolant 4L topup with demineralised water
Now lets get started.
pop your bonnet and marvel at the wonders of the 1jz engine

[barned01]

Step 1 Remove Radiator
1.1 Undo the radiator cap, remove top overflow pipe from radiator
1.2 Remove the bottom radiator shroud. You should see 2 clips from above one on the drivers side, one on the passenger side, simply pull these clips outwards and push the bottom shroud towards the front of the car to get past the clips. The shroud should then sit loose in the bay (you can fish it out later).

1.3 Undo the bottom radiator hose.
NOTE: By undoing the bottom radiator hose, expect a whole heap of coolant to go everywhere. This step can be a whole lot neater by undoing the drain cock on the radiator first and letting the water dribble out of that (into a bucket or collection device to dispose of properly obviously). I prefer the more entertaining and faster approach (especially when your lady is the one under the car holding open the hose clamp while I am ‘on top’ pulling the hose out in the engine bay).
1.4 Undo the 2 transmission lines that go to the bottom of the radiator.
NOTE: transmission fluid will come out of these hoses so be, it may be warm if the car was driven recently to starting the service. Use a small bucket or jar to catch the transmission fluid.
1.5 Remove small plug at bottom of radiator also and also one connected to small fan.

1.6 Remove top radiator hose.
1.7 Undo the top radiator cover, it is held on by 2 10mm bolts.
1.8 Undo the 2 radiator support brackets. These are held on by 4x12mm bolts. You should now be able to remove the top radiator support brackets in pne piece.
1.9 Undo both battery clamps and remove battery.
1.10 Remove battery tray.

1.11 You should now be able to slide the radiator up and out of the car, at this stage you should also be able to get that lower radiator shroud out relatively easily as the radiator is coming up (from step 1.2), and there will also be a cable connected to the radiator plastic cover via a clip near the small fan, I found it was easier to cut the tape of the clip holding the cable to the cover (simply remove the clip from the radiator when it is out of the car and then retape it to the cable again).

1.12 Remove the air filter and intake piping (note this soarer has a pod so I can’t comment on the original airbox setup ans steps for removal, but one assumes it is held in by a few bolts here and there)

[barned01]

Step 2 Removing the front timing assembly
2.1 loosen the 4 bolts holding the fan pulley to the water pump (4x10mm bolts) until they spin freely.

2.2 remove the accessories belt. To make this easier, place a 14mm socket on the belt tensioner and extension bar. Push the extension bar clockwise to slacken and remove the belt.

2.3 Finish removing fan pulley.
2.4 undo top spark plug cover (8x5mm hex bolts)
2.5 disconnect each of the coils. There may be clips holding the cables onto the coils and they will probably be quite brittle. If they break though, don’t fret too much as the cable fits snugly on the plug anyway.
2.6 Loosen Crank Shaft bolt. This can be achieved by attaching a 22 mm socket and breaker bar with long extension to the bolt. Temporarily reconnect the battery and lay the breaker bar up against the chassis. Turn the engine over for half a second to use the power of the starter motor to crack the bolt. It took 5 attempts for the nut to finally let go for me.

2.7 Remove the top timing cover. This is held on by 2 bolts (and 2 of the hex bolts normally from the spark plug cover which you have already removed).
2.8 Set the engine to Top Dead centre. This can be done by rotating the crank (don’t worry if the bolt slightly retightens itself it will still be relatively easy to remove) and taking note of the top cam pulleys. There are marks on the pulleys that wil align to the top.

2.9 remove the accessories belt tensioner (3x12mm bollts)

2.10 half unwind the crank bolt and use a crank wheel puller to pull the crank pulley forward. To do this place the crank puller device onto the loosened nut and thread 2 long m8 bolts through the puller device and into the 2 holes provided on the pulley (the 2 holes should be facing top and bottom if you have aligned the crank to top dead centre) place the large winding device into the centre of the puller device until it hits the loosened centre pulley bolt. Then continue to wind the centre winding device, it should pull the crank pulley forward. You may have to readjust the crank nut (unwind it more to allow the crank pulley to pull forward more) one or 2 times to fulley remove the pulley.

2.11 Remove bottom Timing cover (4x10mm bolts)
2.12 To make assembly reeeeeeeeealy easy mark the existing timing belt with some nail polish or something to the aligning marks on the cam and a point of reference on the crank



2.13 Undo the small 10 mm bolt holding the transmission lines to the bracket on the bottom of the alternator. Remove the bottom part of the bracket to allow the transmission lines to drop slightly.
2.14 Remove the bolts holding the alternator in place and place the alternator out of harms way (where the airbox went would be good).

2.15 Remove the timing belt tensioner. To do this, loosen each 12 mm bolt holding the tesioner in gradually and evenly (ie 1 revolution at a time for each bolt)
this will make the timing belt slacken off a bit.
2.16 remove timing belt
2.17 Remove timing belt pulley using a 10mm Hex style bit

2.18 Note at this stage you can start dumping the oil and removing the oil filter

[barned01]

Step 3 resetting the timing belt tensioner
3.1 Your timing belt tensioner should come with a small rubber grommet (have a look in the hole that it came from if you can’t see it). Place this back over the end of the tensioner with the small eyelet facing away from the 2 mounting bolts (if layed flat the mounting bolts would be forward facing towards the ground, and the rubber grommet with the eyelet should be facing towards the sky).
Note the eyelet in the tensioner at the top should line up with the eyelet in the grommet. Also note there is a small eyelet in the tensioner shaft in the centre that should also line up on the same plane as all the other eyelets.

3.2 Using a vice that can open a fair distance, slowly compress the tensioner shaft. As it is compressing you should be able to note that all the eyelets should line up so you can see daylight through them.

3.3 Keep the shaft in the compressed position by placing a small metallic object through all of the eyelets to the other side. I used a nail with the head of the nail facing away from the two mounting bolt holes. This is very important as you need to be able to pull this ‘locking nail’ out at a later date so don’t push it in all the way and ensure there is still enough meat to enable you to be able to ‘grab’ something.

[barned01]

Step 4 water pump removal and installation (NOTE: you need some impressively small hands to reach some of the bolts holding this baby in)
4.1 remove the top water pump housing (2x12mm bolts). You can leave the 2 rubber pipes attached, but there is a pipe in the bottom of it that goes to the water pump so when you remove the housing you will have to pull up slightly at the same time. Note the use of a gasket on the housing connected to the head.

4.2 Remove the 2 bolts that hold the back of the water pump to a pipe running underneath the turbos (2x12mm bolts)
4.3 remove the 6 bolts holding the front of the water pump to the block.
4.4 pull the pump forward, negotiating the bottom radiator hose around a couple of pipes and wires (I found it easier to just leave the hose on the pump and remove it once it was out of the car). Note a small rubber o-ring on the front of the block to the water pump and a small gasket at the rear of the water pump to the water pipe running underneath the turbos.

4.5 Pull the top pipe out of the pump (I used a vice to get a bit of grip on it) and clean it up a bit, replace the rubber orings on it and replace it back into the new pump. Also swap smaller rubber pipe over to new pump.

4.6 Remove the lower thermostat housing. Note which way the thermostat is facing and the orientation.
4.7 Put the new pump back into position using the supplied gasket for the rear and rubber o-ring for the block
4.8 secure the 2 bolts at the rear of the pump and the 6 bolts at the front.
4.9 install the new thermostat into the thermostat housing with new rubber gasket (same orientation and position as old thermostat), install thermostat housing back onto new water pump.

4.10 install top water pump housing back in place using new gasket and 2 bolts remember it goes down into the pipe on the water pump so a bit of wiggling will be required.
4.11 Install lower radiator hose onto thermostat housing.
4.12 Reinstall alternator with 2 bolts, ensuring the bracket for the transmission lines is on the lower bolt
4.13 re-secure the transmission lines to the bracket.

[barned01]

Step 5 replacing the seals
5.1 Remove the lower sensor bolt with 5mm hex bit
5.2 remove lower timing belt cog by using 2x6m bolts on either side of the cog, my bolts slightly touched the crank shaft so that as I tightened the bolts, it pulled the cog forward.

5.3 pull old seal out with whatever sharp instruments you have lying around. Be careful not to be brutal as you don’t want to damage either face that the seal sits against.
Clean up the crank surface a bit with a wire brush.

5.4 replace with new seal. I put a small bead of oil on the inside of the seal to assist lubrication when reinserting. Be sure to replace the seal square and flush with the face of the block.
5.5 reinstall lower timing belt cog
5.6 reinstall lower sensor
5.7 undo top cam gears. I placed socket over one of the bolts holding the rear cover in place while I undid the cam bolt. NOTE: I can’t recommend this method as it applies a shearing force to the bolt from the socket. The correct procedure would be to undo the cam covers and on each cam should be a place where you can secure a spanner or wrench to undo the cam bolts.
5.8 Undo the camshaft cover (4x10 mm bolts), the ones I had the sockets on to undo the cam gears.

5.9 remove the old cam seals in a similar way to the lower seal. I found it slightly easier to loosen the 2 bolts on top of each seal slightly (when tightening them back up, ensure you don’t over tighten 20ft-lb should be ample force when retightening).

5.10 replace new cam seals, again I used a slight film of oil on the inside of the seal to assist with lubrication. Also make sure the seal goes in flush and square.
5.11 Replace the camshaft cover (4x10mm bolts)
5.12 replace cam gears (again I used the cover bolts to secure the gears while I tightened the cam gear bolt, I recommend using the position provided on the cam gear to do this instead).

[barned01]

Step 6 timing belt replacement
6.1 install compressed timing belt tensioner and tighten both bolts.

6.2 install new timing belt pulley using 10mm hex bolt

6.3 ensure cams are back to original position (timing marks pointing upwards)
6.4 mark new timing belt in the same position as the old belt was marked (use old belt to overlay marks)

6.5 install timing belt so marks align with the reference point on the crank and the top timing marks on the cam gear.



6.6 when satisfied the belt is in exactly the same position as the old belt was, remove the object (in my case a nail) that was holding the tensioner compressed. It should apply tension to the belt and look like it did before.

[barned01]

Step 7 put it all back together.
7.1 install lower timing cover
7.2 install crank pulley NOTE in order to tighten the crank pulley bolt you will need some kind of way to stop the crank from turning over, in a manual jut put it in second gear or something, in an automatic…you may have to remove the starter moter and wedge something in the ring gear, alternatively you could use an air tool or something.

7.2A you can now rotate the engine over to see if everything is turning and functioning, it might be an idea to rotate the engine at least 720 degrees (at the crank) to get back to top dead centre, then have a look at the cam gears to see if the gear marks are still pointing to 12 o'clock (ignore the marks on the belt made earlier as these are now irelevant)
7.3 install accessories belt tensioner


7.4 install top timing cover.
7.5 install fan pulley, hand tighten the bolts.
7.6 install accessories fan, to assist with installation place a 14mm socket and extension on accessories belt tensioner and rotate clockwise to release the slack on all the pulleys.

7.7 Tighten up fan pulley bolts
7.8 reinstall radiator
7.9 reinstall transmission lines to radiator, lower radiator hose, and small clip near small fan (note you can also reclip the wire to the shroud plastic from step 1.10) also install plug to small fan.
7.10 reinstall top radiator brackets and cover, reinstall radiator overflow pipe
7.11 reinstall battery cover
7.12 re-plug in the coils to the loom and replace the spark plug cover with the 8x5mm hex bolts
7.13 reinstall battery.
7.14 REFILL THE CAR WITH OIL and also reinstall the oil filter.
7.15 Refill radiator

[barned01]

Step 8 Ensure everything is ok
8.1 assuming the timing belt was replaced exactly as it was taken off, the car should start no issues. It may idle weird for a couple of minutes but that should be because the ecu was reset rather than you being worried you missed putting the timing belt on by one tooth. Also note I had an error with the fuel gage, it flashed at me and the console was saying I was out of fuel….don’t be too concerned just yet
8.2 Take the car for a fang around the block
8.3 return the car and look under for any leaks…hopefully there are none.
8.4 cheer and be happy.
8.5 crack open a nice cold glass of milk and down that bad boy.

[barned01]

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[barned01]

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[barned01]

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[Dale]

Holy shit, trying to write your own haynes manual?

When putting a new timing belt on you should turn the motor over 720 degrees by hand and check that all the marks still line up, the last thing you want to do is put all the covers back on and engine back together to find it's slipped a tooth, always best to be sure and tripple check

Also a good idea to mark a reference point on the block that corresponds to the crank timing belt pulley, usually there's a casting on the block that will line up with the notch on the end of the crank that the harmonic balancer sits in.

Anyway not trying to steal your thunder. Kudos on the write up, can tell you put a lot of time and effort into it!

[barned01]

cheers matey,
i actually turned the engine over by hand 720 degrees after that to check it was spinning alright, but the reference marks don't go back to the same points again, they only seem to be relevant for the exact point when you put the engine together (i was hoping i could do that as a verification step).
as for the reference mark on the block, my thought was the timing belt pulley on the crank can only go on one way, thus the pulley and crank will always be aligned.
therefore if i just mark the timing belt pulley (it is hard to see in the photos but i marked the cog just above the left hand hole in the pulley with some nail polish) and also the belt at the same position then it should all just line up again when it goes back on.


the 720 degree thing is interesting, i think the same thing happened when i did my 18rg, i marked the chain in the 3 positions (crank and 2 cam reference marks) put it all back together as it came off, and then rotated the engine to check everything, but the marks made on the chain never ended up coming back around to match up with the marks on the cogs.

[Dale]

Yeah I've noticed the same thing about the 3 marks never coming back to the same position, by the reference points I meant just line up the marks on the cam pulleys and crank pulley after 3 turns, not the actual marks on the belt.

Although overlaying the new belt with the old one and marking it that way pretty much guarantees it won't slip a tooth, I like that idea