Sounds more like brake pads.
Have you checked to see how much meat they have left on them?
Hey everybody,
I drive a '74 TA22, and there's a constant squeak coming from the (fairly sure) front right wheel. Dad's led me to believe that it's a shot wheel bearing, or maybe something to do with the brakes. The squeak is always there, be it going around either right or left corners or straight.
Any ideas?
Cheers,
Oddyssey
Keep it shiny side up.
My TA22
Sounds more like brake pads.
Have you checked to see how much meat they have left on them?
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Yeah, checked them ~4000kms ago and they had more than that left.
Keep it shiny side up.
My TA22
Yep sounds like the brake wear indicators scraping on the disc.
Just pull the front wheel off and check to see how much brake pad is left.
Cheers
/me trundles off to check the brakes...
Keep it shiny side up.
My TA22
Drive down the road put it in neutral and coast and wobble wheel from one side to the other if the hum hum hum increase one way and decreases the other its posisbly bearings on that side.Originally Posted by Oddyssey
jack up the car take off the grease cap and slit pin and tighten up the nut, if it goes up a way you have a bearing slackened problem if it is already tight you may need to do cups and cones which is QED. 2C.
1968 RT40S Corona 1600S series II (restore in progress)
1973 RT104-MQFG 012604 Corona GT JDM (Owned since 1976 242000 km)
1989 ST185-BLMVZ-0007199 Celica GT4 JDM (unmolested classic 95000 km)
2012 ZN-6 86GT (shed find 5000 km in 6 years)
I tried that yesterday, and it seems that the squeak will die off when the wheel is turned slightly to the left, and come back again when pressure is applied to the right. I'll pull things to bits when I get a bit of time. My main concern right now is getting the car running again:Originally Posted by RT104GT
The ignition switch seems to be farked. When turning the key to start it, the engine will run for as long as the starter switch is engaged (meaning that you can rev it with the starter engaged - not good for it but the engine does run.) As soon as you release the key to the 'on' position, it will die, like you've just turned it from 'on' to 'acc'. When turned to 'on' without the engine running, all the normal lights are there, so it's getting ignition, but only when the key is in the 'start' position.
Keep it shiny side up.
My TA22
Ballast resistor on the coil.As soon as you release the key to the 'on' position, it will die,
Aye, Ignition is connected to STA not IGN.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
Cool, I'll have a look tonight. Cheers people!
Keep it shiny side up.
My TA22
New ballast resistor on and now runs. Thanks people.
Keep it shiny side up.
My TA22
Toymods!
FTW.
glad you got the prob fixed, no replace that bearing before your wheel seizes and you crash, not a good prospect.
Eldar.O.
Yeah I'll get onto that asap. Also I thought it would be a good idea to replace the master brake cylinder, as both the original master and slave clutch cylinders have died and been replaced, and the original brake master is still there. I don't think brakes aren't what I want to lose in an emergency....
Keep it shiny side up.
My TA22
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