forgies for 1ggte?

[6BOOST]

How can the oil system be improved?

There are a few things you can do yourself to improve it, as long as the engine is still in pieces. The first, is pull the oil filter off, and have a look at where the oil comes from the il pump into where the filter screws on. Its the hole at the bottom. You can barely get your little finger in there. Grab a die grinder with a stone or pointy bur, and open up this hole. Don't just hog it out, but lay the edges back and round them over so not only is the oil coming through a bigger hole, it flows smoothly as it disperses. Imagine your porting a head and you want max flow, all nice and rounded.

Next, take the timing cover off the front. Have a look down the bottom right side of the block. There are 2 holes, one is the suction side from the sump, the other the pressure side from the oil pump. Do the same here, rather than sharp corners, round these out and smooth them into the surrounding material.

These are the first 2. If your still keen at this point, pull the threaded bit out of centre where teh filter screws on. It goes in too far. Cut about 5mm off it, and held in a vice, radius both sides and round the corners so the oil flows around teh corners into the block easier. You can radius inside the hole where we just pulled that piece out also, but I wouldn't advise this for th inexperienced, you can damage the thread in one little miss. be VER VERY careful, you only get to damage the thread once and its stuffed!!

The next 2 are a little more tricky. The main oil galleries in the block that feed the mains are 7mm where it enters the bearings, but if you get a 7mm long shank drill and stick into the main oil holes, they are only 7mm for an inch or 2, then they go back to 6mm. Drill out main oil galleries 1 and 6(there are 7 main caps in total), teh reason being, that the main oil gallery feeds the rods, and 1 and 6 rods/mains are the furthest from teh centre where the oil feeds in, you don't want to increase them all, and don't do number 7, as it feeds nothing.

I have 2 more mods done to mine, but I'll only divuldge one of them. The bearing shells when sat in the block don't line up with the centre of the oil hole that feeds them, they are off to one side. You need to find someone with a dremel tool or something very very fine. You may be able to do it by hand with a very fine jewelers round file. Put masking tape on the bearing face and just uncover the hole in the bearing. Put some bearing blue on teh back of the bearing and push the shells into the block. The hole will leave an outline where it lines up with the shell. You want to file out the shell so it matchs this hole perfectly. I would get someone who knows what they are doing to do this. If your tricky you can do it yourself, but you need a scraping tool so when your done, you can cut/scrape a radius back on teh edge of the hole so its not sharp. When your done, give the shells the very lightest of rubs with scotchbrite green pads and soapy water. Make sure everything si clean first. Your just cleaning teh surface, not trying to scrath a new finish on it!!!

There you have it. I have one more, but like I said, its staying with me. It is however not possible to do yourself and very tricky to do, an I don't know how many people out there "could" do it or have any idea how. Lastly, check your clearances. You want around .002" on the mains on a 400rwhp street engine and .002-.0023 on the big ends. For a 500+hp engine I'd go .0022" mains and .0025" on the big ends. Don't run thinner than 10w50 oil, and put a 1.2mm washer under the oil pump spring. If you use thinner oil, you will have very little oil pressure at idle when hot, less than 10-15psi. I personally run 15w60 Penrite oil, I think its HPR30. Street engines with tighter learances you could run a 10w40 oil minimum, just keep an eye on hot oil pressure at idle. If its below 15psi, then chuck some thicker oil in.

I only use genuine toyota oil filters, and run no oil coller. For street appliactions one would be a good idea.

Hope some of this helps, attached are some photo's.

6BOOST

[Karma Supra]

Fantastic stuff!!! I'd add rep, but I already did


The photos help alot too!!!


The point about bearings 1 and 6 are interesting as I said, 6 went on mine and 1 didn't look too clever. I''l go as far as opening them up, I think attackign teh bearings is asking for trouble if i am doing it Thanks again.

With all your attention to oil ways, what is your view on remote filter/oil cooler kits?

[6BOOST]

Its a catch 22. I wouldn't be adding anything that makes it harder or requires any more effort for the factory pump to pump through, but by the same token, you don't want oil temps getting really hot and degrading the oil. I'd persoanlly run an oil temp gauge and not thrash it to the point it just goes stupid, be sensible about how much/often you give it a hiding on a drive. My car doesn't really matter, its primarily a cruise/drag car, puuted around town with the occasional squirt and oil temps don't have time to get too hot at the track.

The way to fix all these problems are to run an external belt driven wet pump, like a moroso or peterson, you still have a wet sump, it just is like your nomral oil pump but better and driven off the crank. They are about $700. Easy to fit, I just don't have room to fit it, there is only about 5mm from my balancer to my thermo fan.

6BOOST

[DoctorDubb]

6Boost that guide would be great, as im looking into a rebuild for my 1G and are having hard time of where to get parts, even harder as im in Perth

[sanchez]

i thought about getting forgies for my 1g but i decided against it as the stock pistons seemed good enough. I did get them ceramic coated however.

[love ke70]

doctordubb ive spoken to you about this

4k big end bearings if you have the 42mm big ends, and if you have the 44mm big ends call ACL and irritate them long enough til they put you through to the head bloke down in the factory, he knows his shit! i spent ages on the phone to him
2s/3s mains in all motors
4k rings in all motors
valve stem seals match a heap of motors, 7mgte is one, good coz its a 24 valve motor.
i got my headgasket genuine, but you can get the metal doodah but i didnt see the need when looking at the power people are puttting through stock ones..

what else?

and to you 6boost, regarding the oil flow thing
what if you run a smaller pulley on the oil pump? through a series of unfortunate events thats what im doing (pulley off a 3s-f, and the shank on the pump machined 1mm smaller to suit)
any thoughts?

[6BOOST]

If you modify the oil system correctly there is no need to change the pulley. I can't say what difference doing so would make, but I'll prob nearly gaurantee that without doing some of the mods I have mentioned you'll still end up with big end material in your sump. I also don't know how it would effect timing belt length and adjustability, and how many more rpm the standard oil pump can handle before it cavatates. We originally thought that may have been what was happening when investigating my engine destruction path.

Well, unless you need to make more than 550hp at the crank, which is all I've tested mine too, I can happily recommend the mods listed, as love ke70 mentioned, 3SGTE main bearings fit in, although you'll need 2 sets, and you have to run a narrow bearing on number 1 instead of the wider bearing, and toyota 4k bearings fit early turbo, and most supercharged and NA engines which have the 42mm diameter rod journal. Some NA engines I have seen use a narrower but same diameter bearing, in which case you can use a 4AG bearing. You have to use a genuine toyota thrust bearing, the 3S ones don't fit, so don't bother buying any, I just use second hand ones, as they are pretty spotless even in my destroyed engines.

Another thing I forgot to mention is running a ACL RAce series main bearing(to suit 3SGTE) as these are a 3/4 groove main bearing, the only company I know of that does them, this gives you more window for oil supply to the big ends but not sacrificing load capacity by going to a full groove main. I use 4K toyota "King" bearings in my rods, as the surface is 17 times thicker and more forgiving than a typical tri metal bearing, I like their quality, have a look at their website and tech on how they are made, I found it interesting.

6BOOST

[emp?]

Just an update on this, but 4k rings will not fit gen 1 or gen 2's unless you grind out the ring gaps in the pistons, 4k rings are to thick!

[Forcefed6]

The only difference I found when looking for you, was that the oil ring groove was different.

The 4K runs a 1.2, 1.5, 2.8mm ringset, the 1G pistons you have, and the one I used to measure had a 1.2, 1.5, 4.0mm ringset.

This also means that modding the pistons won't help much. Hastings is the only company I found that made a suitable ringset, but the Australian distributor for Hastings don't bring that particular one in. Can be ordered and come on there next shipment, but this is 8-10 weeks. There fast freight was quoted at $160...

[love ke70]

Just an update on this, but 4k rings will not fit gen 1 or gen 2's unless you grind out the ring gaps in the pistons, 4k rings are to thick!

i dont agree with that

i have a 42mm big end, so gen 1 or 2 and my 4k rings fitted fine.
i just measured each gap and told them and they had the right ones on the shelf.

[IN 05 NT]

this thread is awsum!....

next dead motor, i'll do a solid rebuild,....im only looking to 300rwhp, and want to make it reliable on low boost!....

im hoping to see 300rwhp with this new engine package,

using the gt30/71r, running 12 psi,
adjustable cam gears, and NA cams,
XF falcon throttle body
and an aftermarket ecu...(either microtecth or autronic)
7mgte inj,

do you guys think that is a good relibel setup for 230 rwkws?

considereing i made 195rwks on 12psi with the rest all factory...

[IN 05 NT]

this thread is awsum!....

next dead motor, i'll do a solid rebuild,....im only looking to 300rwhp, and want to make it reliable on low boost!....

im hoping to see 300rwhp with this new engine package,

using the gt30/71r, running 12 psi,
adjustable cam gears, and NA cams,
XF falcon throttle body
and an aftermarket ecu...(either microtecth or autronic)
7mgte inj,

do you guys think that is a good relibel setup for 230 rwkws?

considereing i made 195rwks on 12psi with the rest all factory...

[mrshin]

I've got most of the parts to put my engine together now, including ARP studs for the head and mains, but what are people using for rod bolts?

[RAd28]

subscribed for later... i'll be back...

[mrshin]

Nobody got any suggestions?