break upgrades/ta23

**buztoy** · 11-10-2006, 10:17 PM

hey guys
at the moment i reckon the breaks on my celica are a bit spongey, i heard back in the day they used to use a different disk with volvo 240gl 4 pot calipers, i drove one of these for my 1st couple of weeks and the brakes are strong as, if your not wearing a seat belt you will break your nose, also bmw 6 pot but i might have a bit of trouble sourcing those,

also has anyone converted the rears from drum to disc, all work is on a ra23,
cheers

**SillyCarS** · 11-10-2006, 10:20 PM

do a search dude

theres tons of pages on this, if that doesnt help tell everyone youve done a search and ask q's

**buztoy** · 11-10-2006, 10:23 PM

i'll tell the truth and did a small search, didnt get anything

actually i'll add ta23 to the title

**Lambolica** · 11-10-2006, 10:46 PM

5 nano seconds of searching found these.

Celica brake upgrade

5 Stud brakes

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...+brake+upgrade

And this.....
Rear Disc Brake Conversion on 23/28
Just thought that I might share experience on this upgrade!

From an earlier thread I was led to understand that a RT141/142 rear disc setup was an easy upgrade to a 23/28 (and for that matter a 40 - although I will deal with that later)

So I went out and got myself a RT141 rear assembly and started the 'bolt up' Yea it was not that easy!

So to help others that might want to go down the same path - here goes.

So from the beginning hunt up a complete RT 141 rear diff assembly including hand brake cables (which is very important). This gives you a 23 spline BW diff which is about the same strength as your celica/corona diff - if you have a RA40 or AE86 just swap the whole diff assembly over. I am not sure about the hand brake cables for the 40/86 but everything else should work out. Another thing that I have not really investigated, but if you have a 40 or 86 you may be able to make use of an Australian Nissen Skyline Silhouette. These come with a 4 pinion 28 spline BW LSD (like a VL turbo but stronger as the VL is only 2 pinion). The whole assembly is exactly the same width as the RT141 ? you never know your luck in a big city - it all just may fit. Of course the other option is look at fitting the whole Skyline assembly, which I will be planning to do to my 23 in the future. As I seem to be breaking diffs, would like a lsd and I currently use 25mm spaces because of the offset of the wheels that I have so the additional width of the Skyline diff would be great..

However if you have a 23/28 you will have to follow the path that I took and swap over the brakes.

Everything is a bolt up. Except!

You will have to swap over the axle retaining plates. These are the 75mm by 100mm plates that hold the axle and bearings in place. Looking closely you will notice that the brake assembly backing plate is of alloy and some 5mm thicker than the normal backing plate. The axle retaining plate from the RT141 has a 5mm spacer in it. Now to do this you will have to remove and replace the wheel bearings - yes more expense. Remember to change the oil seals while you have the chance. Hunt around for new bearings as the price can vary from $33 to $90 ea.

The bolts that hold the axle in place will have to lengthened - get some about 5-8mm longer from you local supplier. Remember that they must be high tensile and have locking nuts. Also make sure that the shank is the same so that things locate square. One of the hex sides of the head of the bolt will have to be ground down a few mm to have it locate ? its pretty obvious what has to be done.

Before you bolt up it will be necessary to move the Shock Absorber mount by about 20mm so that it does not contact the back of the caliper. This is not particularly difficult as it is just a matter of carefully removing the mount with an angle grinder and rewelding it inboard 20mm.

Bolt everything up. You will also need to change the brake lines. Remember to double flange the brake lines - also on the rhs caliper you will need to remove the pin that locates the flexible hose to the caliper so that you can rotate the hose to clear the body. I mounted the ends of the flexible hoses, that come with the caliper, to the hose bolts at the base of the springs. If you do not have a brake line flaring tool you should be able to connect using the old lines so that it is safe to drive to a brake place who will relocate the lines for you relatively cheaply.

You will need to shorten the hand brake cables. I used cable connectors - those little u bolts (3mm) but you can get special inline connectors if you can get hold of the special crimping tool. When you shorten the cables take the opportunity to swap over the little grommets at the end with the originals off the 23/28 as they are some 1.5mm difference in size.

Well the cost!

RT141 rear axle assembly - $250 (you may be able to do better). Remember you only need the whole lot if you are going into a 40 or 86.

New wheel bearing and seals $33.50 ea - shop around as they vary from $90 down

Getting someone to remove 4 lots of bearings and pressing 2 new one on - $65. Not so hard to do yourself

New pads - $55

New kits in calipers - $55 all up (strongly recommended)

Clean up the rotors - $11 ea

Petrol to make 10 trips to get the stuff I forgot $100 (I live in the country)

Fast drives into town to get stuff - deduct $1000 cos they are always fun..

I think that I have covered everything. Remember that this conversion will need to be covered by an engineering certificate.

I have also noticed that I had rear lockup before the fronts (I have 4spots off a highlux) so you may have to factor in a adjustable balance valve. There are a couple of ways that you can do this ? 1 remove the factory bias adjuster, which is low on the firewall an the rhs and remove some of the coils off the spring. I understand that this does work but I had 2 goes and removed 4 coils and was still getting lock of the rears first so gave up. 2 fit an adjustable bias valve. There are several types that you can choose from. You can source easily adjustable rally type valves from places like Revolution for around $270. These would be great to have but are not legal on a street registered car. Or you could do what I did and buy a PBR P8573 (I paid $220 but I am sure that you could do better for trade). While this valve is adjustable, it has a lock nut and is not designed to be in cabin mounted. It can be located under the bonnet or under the back of the car

and this.....

Celica Brake Upgrade
I have written this tech article because I am sick of explaining how to do it on the Forums. A few of us at Toymods have performed this modification, and all of us agree that it is the easiest, best performing and most cost effective front brake upgrade for TA/RA23 and RA40 models (and possibly TA22's,but I haven't seen it done on these yet).

The parts list is as follows:

STRUTS: Corona XT130.These come with 10.5" solid rotors and twin piston calipers, but these are NOT needed. All that is required is the bare strut leg and the hub.
ROTORS: Peugeot 604 front discs, 273mm x 20mm ventilated items. These can be purchased new from DBA, part no. DBA 272 (ph. (02)97480211).
CALIPERS: Hilux 4WD 4 piston items (front). These are off model no. LN106 (1989-1993), with this being the most common model found at 4WD wreckers with these calipers fitted (they are also fitted to later model Hilux's, but I don't know if the mounting bolt holes are the same). The mounting bolt holes should be 90mm apart.

Optional parts:

Caliper re-build kit. This is available from any good brake repairer (sorry, don't have part no. Available!). This is recommended as the calipers are second hand and may either have sticky pistons,or seized pistons.
Bendix Performax pads, part no. DB1149. They do not make Bendix Ultimate pads for the Hilux, but the Nissan 200SX Ultimate pads are almost identical (these have slightly more pad area), and slide straight into the Hilux calipers, part no. DB1170.

Any aftermarket spring/shock that fits the Corona strut. MOST suspension manufacturers make a variety of different spring and shock options, it is up to you to decide what tickles your fancy!!!

CONSTRUCTION

Put the strut in the car half assembled, ie, with only the shock and spring in place.
Drill out the 4 bolt holes on the Peugeot disc, to approx. 11-12mm. This needs to be done because the holes don't quite line up with the Corona hub holes. Then, bolt the disc to the hub.
Clean the stub axle, and apply new wheel bearing grease (and don't be shy with the grease!). Also, apply new wheel bearing grease to the wheel bearings (or place new bearings in if needed). Then, fit the disc/hub to the stub axle, and do the wheel bearing nut up to the required tension.
Carefully file out the inside of the Hilux caliper where the disc runs through. If this is not done, the disc will not rotate inside the caliper (this may need to be done again once the disc gets hot and starts to expand)
Bolt the caliper to the strut, using 1-1.2mm thick washers as spacers between the caliper and the strut. This is done so that the disc runs through the centre of the caliper and the pads wear out evenly.
Put the pads in. You may need to bend the pad retaining spring slightly, to stop it from rubbing against the disc.
Screw the brake lines in, bleed the brakes, and go and bed in the pads (as instructed on the Bendix website).
Master cylinder option for TA/RA23 is the item off the GZ20 Soarer, GA70 and MA70 Supra. The brake lines around the master cylinder need to be bent slightly to suit the new one, but it's nothing major. It has only one fluid reservoir, and a 1" bore diameter, as opposed to the 13/16" bore on the Celica item. This allows more fluid to flow to the calipers (as it is some 50% bigger in bore area) when the brake pedal is pressed. This results in awsome pedal feel (100% better than with the Celica master cylinder!!).

See?? Easy!!!! Engineers love this brake upgrade, especially as it all bolts together. Hopefully this will help those of you looking at puting in a high powered motor, or those of you who just want better brakes!!