18R and Weber 32/36 settings?

[MarkIIRx12]

Hi again

hmmm i assume i was going over the idle jet rev area, i did some normal hard driving, before i took the plugs out, so i would assume i was mostly above 3000rpms.

i dont remember exactly where the idle screw is set, but i remember its within the limit from the tuning specs, i counted both idle screw and mixture screw very carefully so that is set by the book.

i did another testdrive now, and i think it runs a lot better for some reason, this time i really noticed the diffrence when the secound throttle opened.

now another weird thing happened tho, the car kept running like crazy after i switched ignition off, seems like something strange is going on

[MWP]

A quick tip for those wanting to tune thier carb...
I dont have a jet kit... ive been soldering mine up then using different sized small drills.
Works very well, and saves buying a jet kit.

i did another testdrive now, and i think it runs a lot better for some reason, this time i really noticed the diffrence when the secound throttle opened.

Do you notice a big difference when you just start to crack open the second throttle?
I have this problem with mine which indicates top end of primary is running lean.
Im going to play with the primary air jet to fix this tomorrow.

[MarkIIRx12]

Hi

Its not a big diffrence when the 2nd throttle opens, but its a differnce. i notice it best if i go on low rpms and floor the pedal, it has a lot more torque now than before.

do u know what size jets u have? is it also an 18R?

thanks again for ur help

[MWP]

Mine is a 21R and im running a 34ADM (34/34).
I dont know what the jet sizes are because, as i said, they have been soldered up and drilled out for adjustment.

[hosking1991]

Hi,

It's not really clear from your post which jets are which. If your main jets at the bottom of the float bowl are:
primary: 135
secondary: 130
... then they are very lean and would be causing power loss!

I'd switch to:
primary: 140
secondary: 150
... and you should see an immediate improvement.

Air correctors sound about right if they are:
primary: 165
secondary: 160

Get the mains right first, then you can increase/decrease the air correctors to fine-tune the top end. Smaller number air corrector = richer top end. Larger number = leaner top end. ie: the Opposite to Mains.

Cheers

thanks heaps i rejetted my weber to those specs and my my does it make difference
with those new settings should i see better fuel economy?
oh and for some reason before the jet change there was 140 in primary and 140 in secondaries

anyways +rep to ya

[hosking1991]

oh and i was told from a friend if you hold the revs to 2000rpm then just open it right up there should be no hesitation (in neutral)

luke

[RA25_Celica]

I have a RA25 with the 18R engine. Having stalling issues and thinking to replace the carb with a Weber 32/36, however I'm unsure if I should get the DGV or the DGEV type. There is no choke level in the car interior, so I assume that means it's an automatic choke and therefore needs the DGEV carb?

[ToyTA22]

I have a RA25 with the 18R engine. Having stalling issues and thinking to replace the carb with a Weber 32/36, however I'm unsure if I should get the DGV or the DGEV type. There is no choke level in the car interior, so I assume that means it's an automatic choke and therefore needs the DGEV carb?

The E in dgev means an electric choke, check what voltage is recommended when purchasing. Some use an 8 volt tap from alternator, such as XE-XF Falcons, others just need 12 volt wire from ignition switch feed to coil. Other option is to buy DGV and fit aftermarket choke cable kit.