1JZ - Check Engine Light - Please Help!

[manny]

Yes, cleared, no error codes.

I had similar symptoms and code 14 on my JZA70 and it turned out to be one of the coilpack plastic connector housings was fubared from years of heat cycling and cracking and had an inconsistent signal from the igniter to the coilpack. A couple of small cable ties pulling the wires into the coilpack did it temporarily until i replaced the plastic connector housing with a new one.

[Danners]

Unfortunately the problem still exists... I took the car for two spirited runs up and down the road with no issues, then FROM OUT OF NOWHERE!



Its back again. Stalled it 4 or 5 times on the way home.

[Ribfeast]

Check the capacitors in your ECU for leaks. A lot of 1JZ ECUs are playing up these days.
On that note, anyone know where to buy 15µF electrolytic capacitors?
Could be a dodgy ignitor or wires to/from it also.

[Danners]

Guys, here's a video of the issue.... I hope this helps. I'm still stumped

http://members.iinet.net.au/~danners...20In%20Car.wmv

http://members.iinet.net.au/~danners...side%20Car.wmv

[Danners]

I pulled the ECU apart... no visible damage.

[-GT-]

Its definately an electrical fault the way it just switches off. Be careful of this though;

"No IGF signal to ECU for 4 - 7 consecutive IGT signals with engine speed less than 3,000rpm"

You said in the 1st post you were up it when it first started doing this to you, more than 3 grand yeah? Its also been happening driving around at more than 3k, not just at idle? You got that code when you let it idle till it happened then read the code right? Maybe its more that the engine stalling for whatever reason meant that the ecu didn't get an IGF signal for several IGT signals, not necessarily that the ecu not getting signal made it spit the code.

I hope that's clear enough? I know that the ecu must have recorded the fault before it killed the engine, but maybe its not the ecu killing it, just a simple electrical fault in the ignition? It'd have to be between the ecu sending signal to the ignitor (pardon 1J ignorance! ), before the signal gets split up to each cylinder, otherwise symptoms would be cylinder specific ie spluttering, missing, not instant drop.

I'm rambling a bit, but this stuff can sometimes be something minor where you wouldn't think to look. I spent days looking for a problem that i'd describe as identical to yours, and it turned out to be the ignition switch at the bottom of the ignition barrel; the contacts were just worn enough that it occasionally broke the circuit and bam, dead and roll to a stop. I was going to suggest you look at something like that when you ran out of other ideas, but after thinking about your fault code i don't think its that likely, as the ecu would be switched off before it registered a missing signal.

Still, moral is, don't rule out just because of the fault code.

[EvilJack]

Heres procedures for error code 14

http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_2_14.htm

[Danners]

Its definately an electrical fault the way it just switches off. Be careful of this though;

You said in the 1st post you were up it when it first started doing this to you, more than 3 grand yeah? Its also been happening driving around at more than 3k, not just at idle? You got that code when you let it idle till it happened then read the code right? Maybe its more that the engine stalling for whatever reason meant that the ecu didn't get an IGF signal for several IGT signals, not necessarily that the ecu not getting signal made it spit the code.

I hope that's clear enough? I know that the ecu must have recorded the fault before it killed the engine, but maybe its not the ecu killing it, just a simple electrical fault in the ignition? It'd have to be between the ecu sending signal to the ignitor (pardon 1J ignorance! ), before the signal gets split up to each cylinder, otherwise symptoms would be cylinder specific ie spluttering, missing, not instant drop.

I'm rambling a bit, but this stuff can sometimes be something minor where you wouldn't think to look. I spent days looking for a problem that i'd describe as identical to yours, and it turned out to be the ignition switch at the bottom of the ignition barrel; the contacts were just worn enough that it occasionally broke the circuit and bam, dead and roll to a stop. I was going to suggest you look at something like that when you ran out of other ideas, but after thinking about your fault code i don't think its that likely, as the ecu would be switched off before it registered a missing signal.

Still, moral is, don't rule out just because of the fault code.

Mate, you could be right on the money here. I read the code 14 once, checked it again after clearing the memory and the code had gone, but i haven't checked it again since the problem has redeveloped. This morning after reading your post, i ran outside before work and checked the code.... nothing! So the problem is ocurring before the ECU can be given any code.

I started the car, stuck my hand in behind the ignition barrel and starting bashing/wiggling anything i could, and the car stalled within 2 seconds of doing this... I hope not a coincidence! As soon as i get some spare daylight i'll be pulling it all apart and trying to find the source. Could it theoretically even be a loose wire on my turbo timer?

Manny has offerred to come over on the weekend to swap out some bits, so i'm going to try and fix it before he has to waste his time on me!

Thanks!

+rep for everyone thats given me a suggestion... I really really appreciate it guys.

[-GT-]

That'll be it, or yeah, look at your turbo timer. If its not spitting codes every time it happens something is just turning the engine off. That's how i found mine, after a couple of days of searching around while it idled and occasionally died i bumped the keys and it died. I then sat there tapping the keys and barrel with a screwdriver handle for 10 mins while it stalled about 30% of the time; just enough for me to think i might be onto something

I wasn't convinced, but i swapped a $5 part and bingo, never done it since. Guess the keys swinging while driving sometimes had enough momentum to break the contact for long enough - it wouldn't do it as often while the car was stationary, then you'd drive off, shift into 2nd and bang.

Good luck

["Z" UTE]

Turbo timers, and alarm systems, funny how a simple electric device incorrectly installed will fubar the cars electrics!!!!

cheers Chuck.

[SL666]

interesting concept really.. don't suppose you have one of those funky 'set itself' type turbo timers?

[Danners]

Mine's a blitz fat-xx or something. It has the ability to start the car all by itself! It could be the root of the problem... going to try and take a look tonight

I hope i find it! i'm dying to take this thing for a drive

[SL666]

i'd check the ignition wiring for it then.. maybe its not getting contact when you release the key from start to ign on? so it waits 20-sec and stops? maybe?

[Danners]

I've already thought of the pre-determined time thing. Its as random as lasting 5 seconds, to being able to drive it several kimometres before the stall occurs

Its just so strange that the ignition wiring wasn't really played with during the conversion, yet it could be the part thats failing! Car was fine for 4 years previous to this.

[sideshow]

if the prob still persists ill be in tuggerahwong next thurs

how far is that from yr place
we can meet up and ill have a look at it see if its something i did

ill bring that spare 1j ignitor i have

have u got boost gauge on it just to make sure its not hitting 14 or more psi