Front WHeel drive drag racing setups - getting the power down

[mattysshop]

where is a good place to start?

car is an ST162 with 3SGTE conversion

have urethane bushes everywhere, looking at some coilovers for it..

how stiff should the rear be?
how stiff should the front be?
maybe look into making an 'anti lift kit'

car doesn't have an LSD yet.. and we will be looking into some wide 15" steelies with some decent rubber or slicks up front..

[Cuts]

lsd

stiff springs and shocks in the rear.

wide as slicks on the front

[mattysshop]

lol... aside from the obvious...

for example.. the typical scenario for coilovers is approx 2kg less for the rear..

eg 8kg F - 6kg R.. but it varies ofcourse from car to car.. setup to setup..

should i use this as a guide? or maybe somthing like 8kg front-7kg rear?

should the front be soft or hard to get the most grip?

[Cuts]

if your serious about it then someone to ask would be rob aka "the backyarder"

has a turbo 20v in an ae82 that runs 9 something, i think he might be a member.

[GUN METAL]

I have no practcal application of such antics but i would have thought the reverse to a rear wheel drive set up.

Yuo would want the smallest amount of weight transfer so get the hardest springs you can ?

Personally i would be going for the LSD first then stickiest tyres i could get my hands on before i did anything to the suspension, then maybe chocking the rear suspension with some timber ?

Hope you enjoy torque steer

[mattysshop]

the torque steer isn't that bad and neither is the wheel spin with the equal length shafts..

you want torque steer.. try putting some big boost in a GT starlet... they don't use an 'equal length' shaft setup, with the bearing mount on the block... they torque steer like a banshee!

just running the S53 box still.. eventually will go with an E series when this one eventually breaks.. but it's 5 years on and it's just a bit crunchy... the dam thing won't break!!

looking at widening a set of 15" corolla steelies (runs 4x100 pattern) to put some decent feet on her..

i guess my main question is regarding the spring rates.. and anti-lift for the control arms..

[mattysshop]

i spose the LSD is one of those things that you don't realise how much traction don't have untill you put one in!

[Dieseltrain]

Suspension means nothing if you dont have traction . Firstly i would be getting some MT ET STreet radials on the front . Run it at the track, then if its still struggling for traction, start looking into different spring / shock combos . Even sway bars make a difference .

Also wheel alignment to help reduce or increase camber . What you want to find is when the car launches , where the camber is at and adjust it from there on launches . This helps create the most effective footprint of the tyre .

[mattysshop]

yep, agreed, i'm already looking for some 15" steelies that i can have widened so i can put some good feet on the front..

the honda/USA boys seem to use 'traction bars' to eleminate 'wheel hop'

the celica at the moment 1st and 2nd gear is pretty useless.. if you gradually feed the boost on in 2nd gear it's not too bad.. but if you mash it even from 50-60km/hr it just eratically bounces the front end..

one of these traction brackets doesn't look hard to design or make.. bit of molly, some hyme joints and we will see how we go!

this is what the FF honda boys use..

http://www.full-race.com/catalog/pro...products_id=77

[Dieseltrain]

US + Honda normally = 9 or 10 seconds . I would start with sticky rubber, then modify your susp from there bud . If you can Fab something similar to that setup and make it work, why not i say ! Otherwise you may well spend a shiteload of money on useless stuff ya dont need .

[oldcorollas]

how do those bars eliminate wheel hop?

I can see that if the bushes in the arms are soft, and that allows the A-arms to go forwards, it might help, but ... in that picture, they are in the wrong spot to eliminate bind (assuming the rear arm mount is not further inwards than the front mount)

wheel hop = shocks.. as opposed to diff windup on rwd car?

[Cuzzo]

Correct,

serious slicks will require reducing wheel-hop (tramp)

Wheelie bars on the back can help.

[mattysshop]

it's not like we havn't done anything as far as suspension goes, done minor things like king lows on the front, with brand new KYB's, rear has king low h/duty (i don't know why but they make these for towing!, who would tow with a celica!?) and KYB's, urethane bushed through most of the front end, havn't done the rear yet, as he is still running the stock St drums..... don't ask me how it was engineered.... solid engine mounts (VERY SOLID!)

so from what everyone thinks so far i'll start with some adjustable coilovers, with a nice stiff rear spring, and the adjustable valving in the shock should help the front end..

and some big slicks... haha... i need some stock ZZE corolla rims!!!


old corollas - i'm 99% sure the rear of the A arm is a little closer to the centreline of the car.. the idea with those brackets is to stop the control arms bounching between 2 bushes front and back.. not really up and down.. so if it was going to turn the tyres it doesn't bounce bounce bounce and 'scamper' for traction like a excited puppy on wet tiles.. it helps keep the control arm still so the power can be more smoothly applied... it may well spin the wheels.. but not bounce nearly as much.. 3 points of contact 1 having only a few thou of movment (hyme joints) makes a massive difference when they are spread out like that..

this is what the celica currently does no matter what you do.. this is 2nd gear squeezing on the gas.. it's only running 14psi on a GT28R, boost response and low down torque is great, and we want to get the run in tune touched up to be a bit more agressive with the timing curve, and run about 20psi..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1M7SPk-t0qo