late 97 on hilux 3rz turbo conversion walk through

[BeRad]

**conversion info on the 3rzfe**

ive added a turbo, but theres several standard toyota blowers that can be added, and retain the stock ecu, saves you some money if you just want a little more power, but obviously limits you. the stock ecu will not suport a turbo even on 6psi. stalls and pushs massive amounts of fuel into the engine.


**Wiring diagram**

Ignition wire :

Stock ecu (run it over to the ignition barrell the one in the stock loom cant support the power draw from the switching in the relays what is 12v quickly turns into 3volts which is just not enough captain haha)

Throttle position sensor :

Stock ecu Yellow : (signal out)
Stock ecu Green/yellow trace : (5v input from ecu)
Stock ecu Light green/black trace : (Ground)

Cam angle sensor :

(dont need it if you set the injectors up to run batched)

Stock ecu Black : (ground) (the cam angle sensor is not needed unless you plan on
Stock ecu White : (signal out) running multipoint injection etc)

Crank angle sensor :

(
the loom wire colors change from the plug going to the sensor and the plug going to the ecu, those combinations are from sensor to plug)

stock ecu Red (shielding)
Stock ecu Green (trigger)
Stock ecu Brown/White dots (ground)

Injector 1 :

Stock ecu Black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu Red/blue trace (ground)

Injector 2 :

Stock ecu Black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu Blue (ground)

Injector 3 :

Stock ecu Black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu White (ground)

Injector 4 :

Stock ecu black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu Red (ground)

to just use 2 injector banks ive linked injector 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 together
(note : opposite to how the wasted spark ignition works)

Coil packs :

stock ecu black/red trace (12v)
stock ecu blue/white trace (ignition trigger)
stock ecu brown (ground)
stock ecu white/black trace (misfire recognition/tacho) not used on aftermarket ecu's


thanks to richard for that diagram

as the diagram said ignition 1 output from the ecu goes to coil pack 1,4 . ignition ouput 2 goes to coil 1,3

the 3rz coils have built in ignitors hence the 3 wires instead of the 2.


Idle Motor

stock ecu
stock ecu havnt go that far yet.
stock ecu
stock ecu




NOTES : for people that dont know everything

[LIST=1][*]The crank angle sensor is magnetic NOT hall effect
[*] Cam angle sensor is used as HOME but not needed.
[*] The cas is a 34 tooth wheel, but in the trigger setup it needs to be put in as 68 tooth 2 revolutions per cycle.
(i have trigger btdc set to 53 degrees and offset set to 4)

****when i get my maps up to scratch ill have it handy for anyone wanting a base to start from***



a bit of a bore this next bit, but has some useful info in there.

fmic/pipes

if you compare my mounting to richards (lance) mines up higher sitting behind the majority of the front end, to achieve this the cab brace had to be trimmed back, you could get away with not doing this if you are that worried about it but would have to cut the back of the bumper out as it would sit out a further 40mm at the bottom. but in having it higher it allows me to run the pipes through the radiator suport rather than having to run them under the suport which is just another thing to be damaged . so i opted to mount it up high. sfs silicone bends had to be bought, the cheap ones just wernt tight enough to make it round in time to avoid the headlight. the cooler pipes pretty much speak for them selves, plenty of room to run them a number of different ways.


thats how i chose to setup the fmic.


another way of mounting the fmic, cooler pipes need to be routed under the radiator support though.

the manifold / turbo setup.

i got lucky on this one and picked up an old setup from someone.
with the kit i got, an r33 turbo in close to perfect condition (if i hadnt have found this i think i would have gone for something a little bigger, as a guide im on 6psi at under 2000rpm. it also came with a steam pipe manifold which isnt a million dollar manifold but is not bad and suits my purpose perfectly. the kit also came with a polished inlet manifold , malpassi fpr, k&n pod and a 2.5inch dump. managed to pick that up for ($1000)
i went for the braided line because im a rice boy .




water/oil feed/oil drain.

water feed i sourced from the oil cooler inside the oil filter housing. a simple t-piece works nicely. water drain is plumbed back into the stainless return back to the radiator. oil feed is coming from what was originialy the oil presser sender tap in the block.
a piece of pipe needs to be welded into the sump giving you the oil return. the sump cannot be removed from the block without removing the gearbox so drilled the hole carefully with grease on the drill bit as to catch 99% of the metal shavings. and welded it on WITH NO OIL IN THE SUMP haha. with that done the worst is over.

*ill get some pics of where these hoses "t" off etc.
Exhaust.

hanging off the r33 turbo is a 3inch dump which comes down between the torsion bar and chassis rail and then expands out to a 3.5inch system 3.5inch cannot be fitted between the torsion bar and rail well it would just fit but would rattle whilst driving. i went for a custom built muffler, reason being its cheaper than a 3.5inch lukey or similar muffler. sounds great and is internally stainless wound so the glass wont come out. ($220) which i thought was a decent price for a decent looking muffler which is a bit out of the ordinary. at the moment the muffler is just after the gearbox x member and dumps off as rear suspension work needs to be fitted so i know for sure where it has to run. the dump and full exhaust including the muffler cost me ($700).

Ecu

i went with the haltech e6x, an impressive all round ecu more than capable of doing everything i intend to do. the only let down with the 3rz and aftermarket ecu's is that noone has caught hold of modifing them as yet so there was next to no info out there. so the haltech came with no basemaps or settings, but have since worked out most of them. heres the thread with the appropriate wiring diagrams. should help alot to anyone looking at going along a similar path to me.


**General Notes**

-The stock fuel pump is not upto the task above 6psi, so needs to be replaced.

to be continued when i have more time.

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

I think brads covered most of it, but ill add what i've learnt with my turbo 3rz-fe.

-Stock rail is 11mm denso style injectors.
-Intake has 2 runners per port, later models from around 2000 onwards had 1 runners per port.
-Aftermarket leads and Plugs available thru NGK.
-Stock bottom end is claimed to make in excess of 500hp if you don't over-rev them too much.
-Balance shafts can be removed, with minor machining.
-Large aftermarket support from the states. Pistons, Rods, Heads etc...
-Most recorded HP from turbo 3rz-fe is 1200hp.

My original maps for my microtech can be found here:
http://lance.ugbox.net/Hilux/Modific...%2028-08-2006/

Full Service Manual for American Tacoma (very very similar to Hilux)
http://lance.ugbox.net/Hilux/Technical/FSM/Tacoma03/

Some predone turbo maps for the 3rz-fe here
http://lance.ugbox.net/Hilux/Technical/Turbo%20Maps/

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

Turbo setup as bought in my car.

[mgfe]

one quick question

can you put a blower on a hilux??
which ones??

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

one quick question

can you put a blower on a hilux??
which ones??

Take your pick, most of the toyota blowers are too small unless you want small boost. SC14 then. Otherwise u'll need aftermarket, and custom brackets etc...

turbo is easier imho.

[mgfe]

so the pick of the blowers and the pick of the turbos would be....????

[MR 1JZ]

Eaton M90 from a Commodore would be a goer for decent power...

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

as with mr_1jz the commy blowers would be right about smack on.

turbos though, GT28 series is too small, your looking at a GT30 or GT35 as a minimum, and the different housing sizes will change if its a streeter or a top end dragger.

[BeRad]

yes, for example my r33 turbo is spoolin 0 - 2psi with 3% throttle advance just cruising along. no good for the fuel economy haha. you need atleast a gt30r or older style bush bearing turbo to slow it down a little haha.

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

you'd expect that with your retarded timing curve though.

[BeRad]

30degrees advanced at 2500rpm -20 vacumm... shouldnt be that bad one would think.

could be anything, fuel, ignition all contribute to spool, just as antilag etc works.

[Soarer21]

Can anyone answer which head is best for power? The early 4 port head or the later 8 port? Valves and cams aside, just purely from the port layout.

[Tweak]

8port for sure. More air is able to be taken in wich equals more power.

seeing as its question time? Anyone have any pics of FMIC setups for later model hilux say like a 03 model? I have a fair idea of what i think has gotta be done but iam open to any suggestions or proven ideas

*waiting with hacksaw and grinder in hands*

[Tweak]

For future reference on later model hilux (03).
Just fitted my fmic. Have to cut a shit load of front bumperbar as the cooler has to sit a fair way out to clear everything. Similar to the first 97 lux (blue) but you have to flip the cooler and run the pipes down and under the radiator support as there is no room on the left side due to the a/c gear to cut a hole and run the cooler pipe in.
Id take pics but i cant finde my camera charger

[A1 Mech]

bit of a gravedig.

Any chance of an update for this thread with sum new pics, info etc?