Out of interest what are you going to use it on? I'm guessing small suspension and brake parts etc?
Hey guys, has anyone tried this, using electrodes?? Im keen to try, and I will!!
http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm
JZA80 Turbo Time Attack Car - "Gorilla"
JZA80 Turbo Street Car - "Silver Back"
Lexus RX350 F Sport "Kid Hauler"
Vitz - Supercharged "Chimp"
HDJ80 Landcruiser "Baboon"
Out of interest what are you going to use it on? I'm guessing small suspension and brake parts etc?
I am the sun
yeah thats correct!
JZA80 Turbo Time Attack Car - "Gorilla"
JZA80 Turbo Street Car - "Silver Back"
Lexus RX350 F Sport "Kid Hauler"
Vitz - Supercharged "Chimp"
HDJ80 Landcruiser "Baboon"
I was thinking of posting this up after seeing it on aeu86.org, but expected it would be here somewhere.
Have used it a couple of times now on small brackets and it works really well. All the rust and paint removed leaving a clean surface for repainting. Obviously any pitting remains.
I would say your only limitation would be the size of container you use.
Don't make the mistake I did initially by putting the positive on the part to be cleaned. Make sure you attach the negative lead to this and the positive to your electrode to be consumed.
Last edited by parrot; 11-10-2007 at 05:17 PM.
It works a treat. A guy here at my work is restoring an old Holden and puts a different part in every night. he says the main thing to do is to try get a lot of surface area on the part not connected to the part you want to remove rust from (If that makes sense). He started with a few bolts and swapped to a big sheet and he said it worked 10 fold better.
Classic JC Quotes
"A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster."
"Usually, a Range Rover would be beaten away from the lights by a diesel powered wheelbarrow. "
"The Mitsubishi 3000GT is about as sporty as a game of Darts."
More info, pics would be good to of the setup![]()
Matt
The link in the first post says it all.
My set up is not very exciting. A bucket with some water in it. Stir in a bit of washing soda. Connect negative lead of charger to some bare metal on the bit you want to clean, connect positive lead to a bit of crappy steel plate, dunk both into washing soda mixture and turn it on. Obviously make sure the parts don't touch. Come back next morning and rub off any residual.
Size of bath seems the only limitation of what you can treat.
There are warnings about not using stainless as an electrode.
I'd do a bit of research if you are going to use this for suspension parts - a quick google about this process shows the cleaned parts may become brittle from this process unless baked afterwards in an oven to reverse 'Hydrogen embrittlement'. Seems to be varied opinions about how hot and how long to do this for...
personally I'd prefer to ensure a suspension part stays strong even if it is uber clean... functionality over fashion for my liking...
Cheers
vanman
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