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Thread: Removing Rod bolts

  1. #1
    But I have no carport? Carport Converter merc-blue's Avatar
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    Default Removing Rod bolts

    G'day,
    I have a set of ARP rod bolts that i want to fit to my rods but it has become obvious that the old bolts dont come out easy, whats the proper way to get them out?
    Cheers

  2. #2
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Re: Removing Rod bolts

    Try using 2 of the old nuts locked together and rotating the bolt side to side slightly. Use plenty of CRC or similar as I think the bolts are probably stuck due to a build up of old residue from years gone by. Try soaking them in diesel for a couple of days too, personally I would try supporting them in a vise with a set of soft jaws around the side of the rod bolt you are going to remove and strike firmly with a big hammer!

  3. #3
    doctor ed Conversion King ed's Avatar
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    Default Re: Removing Rod bolts

    all striking of rods with big hammers (and installation of new bolts regardless) should end with you at your engine builders having the rod big ends closed and honed. i definitely wouldnt just slap it all back together and install and run

    cheers
    ed
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  4. #4
    back into it Chief Engine Builder
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    Default Re: Removing Rod bolts

    Resized is what you want, unless you know what your doing as well as your machinist i do my own but i do most of my stuff myself.
    You need journal to match the shape of the crank, they are not so good when they are round like an egg

  5. #5
    Sucks to be a Domestic Engineer YelloRolla's Avatar
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    Default Re: Removing Rod bolts

    I hold the rod either in my hand or in the vice (aluminium soft jaws) and rap them out with a Nylon dead-blow mallet.
    You will find with the ARP rod bolts for the 2T/3T not quite as tight as the Toyota stock bolts, the nut size is also different (the ARP is slightly smaller). I knock them in with the same mallet.
    Re-sizing of the conrods is highly recommended. They cost about $30/ea.
    You need journal to match the shape of the crank, they are not so good when they are round like an egg
    I think that you mean that rod should be sized so that the correct bearing clearance is achieved. If the crank pin is anything other than round, then the bearing will last less 2/5ths of SFA. The bearings, on the other hand, are slightly elliptical, and if they're not, then you better not rev the engine too hard.
    YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
    12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
    210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.

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