swaybar tech. twin swaybars?

[rn-85]

got the twin swaybar setup sorted on the weekend, and it's harder to let the backend slide however when it does it goes out harder than if it had a single swaybar. i think that is the idea, isnt it? i tested it on some gravel and on testing it it held realy well so i tested it harder and upon that i slid it into a gutter removing a guide post and stoped after a stunning recovery facing the other way. twin swaybars:*** three stars.

is there a panel beating tech artical?

[jak]

sorry to be reviving an old thread, but rather than starting a new one....

would anyone happen to have any pics of the clamping system they used on a twin swaybar setup and/or the whole setup installed?

what kind of clamps have people used?

Cheers
Jak

[LT1986]

twin swaybar = 100% increase over standard (obviously) and a whole lot of messing around...probably a coupole of weekends worth..

...just buy the pre-made whitleline one, and get brand new bushes etc with is too

[jak]

im going for a bullshit handling setup on my ae71 its already got a tercel rear bar with new ish bushes and im about to do a whole lot of work on the front end but i would like to add another in the rear coz its a budget job. Thing should drive like its on rails.

ive got plenty of time to do it just want to see what one looks like.

Cheers
Jak

[wilbo666]

I used 4 pairs of stock mounts, with plates in between the halves.

I.e. Where the sway bar usually bolts to the frame there is a 'D' shaped metal bracket. For each of the 4 places that I mounted the bars to each other I had two 'stock' metal brackets, two bushes, a metal plate and bolts/nuts.

You can also get some adjustment based on where you secure the bars to each other... closer to the ends = stiffer (longer lever)... etc

Make sense?



Cheers
Wilbo

[jak]

perfect, exactly what i was after. + rep.

this is sounding doable.

except where does it bolt to on the diff? via the metal plate im guessing? What about the ends of the second bar?

Cheers
Jak

[jak]

sorry, double post

Cheers for the help
Jak

[andrew_mx83]

i dont have pics of the links unfortunately
but they are each just 2 alloy blocks, clamped together by a bolt in the middle with 2 holes drilled through them for the sway bars.

takes a couple of hours and all done.


edit: for the ends of the bar jsut cut them off as close to the end as you can, without them fouling on anything.
also note that moving the links in or out will change the stiffness of the setup (out = stiffer)

[jak]

so the ends of the second bar dont bolt to anywhere?

and the clamps holding the 2 bars together dont bolt to the diff like the standard mounts?

Cheers
Jak

[-GT-]

moving the links in or out will change the stiffness of the setup (out = stiffer)

Unless i'm misunderstanding you, you've got that around the wrong way; links attached further out on the bar (away from the mounts it pivots in) makes the bar softer. A shorter moment arm makes the bar stiffer.

[andrew_mx83]

no the end just hang there but check the range they will move and make sure they dont foul on anything.

just clamp the second bar to the first -the cressida one doesnt bolt to the diff so not really sure for yours but the general theory is just to clamp the actual bars together.

gt - you may be right i have actually not played with the stiffness just know that it will change depending on where you clamp it. but if u clamped them further inboard wouldnt LESS of the original bar (the one actually working directly on the suspension) be stiffened by the secondary one?

[Mr Revhead]

ooh tricky.....
yeah where you connect it to the car, longer arms = softer
shorter arms = stiffer

i dont see why the same wouldnt work for the second one

[-GT-]

Yeah, you need to think of it as a torsion bar, it's how far it twists along it's ...width, ie across the car. The ends that come forward (or backwards) don't actually contribute to the amount of body roll, they're the arms that apply the vertical force from the strut as a moment (twisting force) to the main part of the bar.

Because of that, moving where that force acts (how far away) affects how far the bar twists. Same force further away creates greater moment (think breaker bar vs small socket) and twists bar further. More bar twist = more body roll = 'softer' roll bar.

It shouldn't matter where you clamp the two bars together as the first bar transfers the force to the second bar around the common moment (balancing forces/moments about the twisting axis) so the force at the clamp changes with the moment arm (distance out from axis).

Moment = force x distance; as you change the distance the force changes.

Not sure i've explained it that well.

[jak]

ahh i think this is starting to make sense. so its sharing the load across both bars which halves the overall twist.

would it bennefit from more clamps. i.e, in andrew_mx83's pic, one clamp either side of the bend on both sides, making it harder to twist because it has to twist 4 smaller sections?

front suspension wise i picked up an MX73 front swaybar today, which is pretty fat i think it is 26mm and hopefully it will fit running MX62 LCA's and possibly MX62 or GE sigma castor rods.

Cheers
Jak