1GGTE in RA23 - guide (in creation)

[Stu]

I am really sorry about this thread already. I have done plenty of searching but cannot come across the tech sheets to do this conversion.

So far I have a GA70 half cut with a Gen 3 1GGTE. I have pulled the loom out and lifted the shell over the motor. So now its time to get the 18RG out and setup the engine and bay for installation. This is probably where my approach is different to others. At this stage I need new engine mounts to sit further forward. Instead of finding these mounts and then cutting the original ones, I thinking of designing a new set (I am a designer so this should be pretty simple) to sit the engine lower and give a set of mounts that I don't have yet.

This could be beneficial in a few ways as it would remove the need to cut the original mounts (sometimes frowned upon by engineers), and I would have the design done for anyone else that is planning on doing the same conversion.

The information that I need is from someone that has already done the conversion with chopped mounts. I need measurements to determine the height and position of the engine. The ones that I can think of are

1. Distance between a point on the firewall and a point on the engine. These need to be either measured or distinct points.
2. A straight bar needs to be laid across the strut towers and then two measurements from the underside of the bar to two distinct points on the engine on each side. eg somewhere on the plenum and somewhere on the exhaust side.

From this I can setup the engine and then design the mounts.
The other things that I will be trying to do is setup drawings and specs for other items such as the radiator. This way someone planning on doing the conversion could walk into a machine shop and get this all done at once.

Has this been done before? and if so, where can I find the tech sheets?

Is anyone else interested in getting the mounts made? obviously it would be cheaper to get more done.

Hopefully, by the end of my conversion I will have enough info and pics to make a complete manual with every possible item sorted.

Any thoughts?

Cheers

Stu

[ace]

Great post dude, should be good one day.
You should be interested in these:
http://web.archive.org/web/200502050...g.au/tech.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200503071...au/Repository/
Later yall, Ace

[ace]

Also if you look 10 posts down in this section you'll find this thread.
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10548
Bam!!

[Stu]

Cheers Ace.

I had the last thread that you posted. Its more the physical position of the engine that I'm looking for. It could save all those people that don't have access to a welder a lot of trubble.

The first lot is very helpful

Thanks mate

Stu

[ddeane]

Stu

You don't need much of a welder. IF you are using the steel engine mounts off the 1GG, not the alloy ones, they can be repositioned to the forward mounting points on the block. Just need to weld up a hole on each mount and redrill. If you don't have the steel ones put a help on this site as I am sure that by now lots of people with have the dimensions for you. You can then bolt the engine up to the original mounts on the xmember using 18r mounts, turned upside down (remember to redrill the hole for the locating dowel) and a spacer made of 10mm steel. It works a treat, the motor fits as far back as possible to give max clearance at the front. No frabication required, the engineer is real happy and there are not exotica parts required. The 18R mounts, can be obtained after market in a firmer, stronger form. My car has been on the road in this form - and on its third engine, something to do with the driver, for the past 6-7 years (although locked away in a container for the past 18 months as I have been o'seas). The car puts out over 200rwkw.

Not sure why you wish to position the engine further forward as you will have heaps of trouble as it is fitting fans, radiator, intercooler at the front.

Craig

[brett_celicacoupe]

making brand new engine mount brackets from scratch might be frowned upon more so by the engineer than modifying the factory stuff.

if you make new brackets, your engineer may require specifications of the alloy composition, the thickness, the penetration of the welds (if any) and even some sort of stress analysis (finite element analysis).

for memory, the reason for modifying the engine mounts is to lower the engine in the engine bay. if i remember correctly, there wasnt much room on the exhaust side engine mounts with the turbo drain coming through the middle (maybe that was the 3tgte?).

using the factory 1ggte brackets means you are using a previously field-tested and proven item (ive never seen a broken 1g engine bracket ). lowering the engine mounts on the cross member still allows strength to be uncompromised as the shape is unchanged.


i say just do it the way everyone else has. have you spoke to an automotive engineer about certifying 100% custom engine mount brackets??

[Stu]

Craig, I don't want to move the engine forward, just the mounts.

I guess now I need a set of 1G mounts before I can get this in. Any clues as to the location of a set?

[brett_celicacoupe]

check the classifieds section. i think there are a couple 1g's being wrecked ATM

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Does anyone know the laws (or where you can find them) for putting a efi engine, such as a 1g-ge on carburettors?
I would think the efi wiring would be the hardest part of a swap like this.

[brett_celicacoupe]

its a zillion times easier and cheaper to figure out how to wire up the EFI than screw around with carbys.

putting carbs on a 1G would be the worst idea evah!

[Stu]

I doubt you could get a carbie version to pass the emission requirements. My engineer said that he wanted to see all of the smog gear on the engine in order to pass it.

I looked before posting an all of the mounts available are from turbo engines.... bugger!

Stu

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Fairenough, have you got a quote for the engineer costs? or how much did approx cost you brett?

[Stu]

My engineer is only charging me a portion of the normal amount - usually its about $300 now. It used to be $60!
Look around, some engineers seem to be a little cheaper than others

[brett_celicacoupe]

cost me about $100

[ddeane]

Stu

Do a search on the old site. There was a lot of discussion on this a few (possibly 4) years back - someone was making them.

Craig