paint stripper, back to metal.
K & H make a metho based sealer, which can be used as a sealer between coats of different paints. The stuff has to be painted on very thinly, and NOT rubbed back.
Mix it well, and strain it a couple of times before you put it in the gun.
This stuff is called "isolator".
The wax and grease remover, must not be allowed to evaporate off the job, it has to be dried off thoroughly with clean lint free cloth.
cheers Chuck.
Last edited by "Z" UTE; 05-08-2006 at 04:58 PM. Reason: add product name
"What man can build, man can fix!"
MS51Crown Coupe,
GSV40R Aurion luxo tourer. One TA22 currently receiving some TLC prior to paint One RS56 Crown ute under construction, 2 x TA22's awaiting rebuilds. Toyota Crown RS47J ute in need of serious TLC. Toyota Crown Custom Wagon MS53 daily hauler stocko!
paint stripper, back to metal.
exept if it has had brake fliud or dead bodie fliuds on it!hahahahahaha
by the sounds of it you are painting over enamel, there is somthing, i'll call it a "buffer" for lack of a better term, this will allow you to paint over it in acrylic or 2 pak (not sure on the last one) any decent paint shop (that does automotive paints) will have it, but i recommend goin back to bare metal because enamel unless its catylised is awful stuff.
just go to a paint shop and ask for somthing you can put over enamel so acrylic can be put over
there ya go, my take on the situation
luke
Since you have had so many different types of paint I think you will need to use an ISOLATOR (as old mate above suggested) or strip back to bear metal.
Thanks for all the replies guys! and the winner is... isolator. I rang paint supplies today as they were the closest and they held me a 1l tin of some brand of isolator.
It only cost $24 although it looks like some old old stock and it was their last tin. Another paint shop told me of isolators but has not seen them for years.
From what i was told, i probably have enamel underneath as mentioned above and its the thinners that are causing the problem as mentioned above in another post.
After having the paint applied i am happy to say that there is none of the effects that i experienced with all the other primers. Im not sanding it at all and i hope the 2k primer goes on ok next. Should do!
I couldnt be happier with the result, as ive tried many different things and it ended up being a cheap and easy solution. I keep looking at the panels expecting them to start screwing up
I did not sand back to metal on other panels except where i had some metal welded at the bottom of the sills and fron guard and the putty sealed it off on the guard. The boot and doors were also taken back to metal previously, but thankfully i did not have to do this to the shell. I couldnt anyway as i need to get out of my mates shed as well!
The cars intended purpose is to get me on a track, any track and some dirt, and have some fun in it.
Cheers again everyone, really appreciate the input.
Cheers rex also.
Pete
Last edited by poida; 06-08-2006 at 11:28 AM.
Glad to hear the isolator worked. Now about that six pack...![]()
I'll send one you way
But i dont know if we have that xxxx junk hereCoopers? West end draught is like drinking river water
make sure you have rubbed through the primer, where you have spray a light coat of acrylic (etch) primer over it then paint over. also make sure wax and grease remover hasnt been allowed to dry into primer due to primer soaks in liquids which will mean it will keep raising the paint when you paint over.
When putting on wax and grease remover make sure you wipe of straight away with dry and clean rag until its dried off.
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