3rzfe/haltech dramas with cas... pic added

[BeRad]

thanks chuckster +rep , got the trusty cordless out turns out the ecu isnt fried at all the sensor must be faulty even though its givin half decent resistance.

thanks

and thanks everyone else for teaching me some basics to sensors

[sideshow]

that sensor is a motronic one
2 wires are for signal and ground and the other for earth fir shielding

i have worked with these afew times on an ems i dont like these cause we have had afew probs

but if u goto the motec website and goto technical drawings u will find a drawing for this sensor

motec wenbsite is one of best sites for techincal drawings

[thechuckster]

So the motronic are VR sensors?

[BeRad]

indded, yer i worked the wiring out to get an rpm, so all seems ok i hope.


duno if ive misread ur reply but it seems u say there r 4 wires ? 2 signal 1 earth and shielding? if so this is not correct with mine it has a trigger a earth and shielding. if thats what you meant sorry...


also, my next problem is the 3rzs coils have internal ignitors, which brings me to the question of has anyone worked with any toyota coils before with internal ignitors and KNOW wheather there smart or dum ignitors, id think theyd be smart seen as they are not in the ecu, if they were in the ecu id guess theyd be dumb because the ecu would be adjusting dwell???

[sideshow]

i would just run an m and w ignitor or a nissan or a wrx ignitor
and just use 2 outputs
they are dumb ignitors and are cheap and plentiful

then use bosch coils

[BeRad]

at the end of that day i dont want to spend more money than i have to 2 coils is another 100 dollars which isnt much but when theres nothing wrong with the ones i have id like to try use them first.


just went out and hooked the cas back up the way IT SHOULD BE WIRED hahaha and the way ive wired the ignitors and coils is right because it sparks as it should. so that problem is solved.

so a few more settings and a bit of playing with maps and it should idle haha.



this diagram might help anyone out with the same toyota coils maybe haha. i thought it was worth putting up anyway


on the topic of maps, got nfi what needs to be done to get it started,

is it possible to use another 4 bangers maps to get it idleing and then go from there does this have 0 chance of working?

[thechuckster]

if you're not confident, and you can't get a map from the manufacturer - tow it to a dyno shop.

[BeRad]

im not so confident but a few mates have gone from scratch with ms ecus so between them and a bit of help from the friendly people on forums i think we should be alright if i burn out a starter i think ill take it to a dyno shop hHaha

[sideshow]

as long as u dont go doin stupid things like start driving it without a proper dyno

i see it all the time where someone spends money on a half descent ecu and then tries to tune it themselves it might take 3 weeks gettin about a 40% accurate tune but without a proper air fuel ratio meter and proper knowledge its easy to waste a shitload of time money and stuff up an engine

and dont tell me yr using one of those budget jaycar air fuel ratio meters hehehehe

the best thing to to is ring halteck get a tune off them that might match yr engine

even if the dizzy settings are different all u want is the fuel and timing maps the rest u can adjust

too many people buy microtechs and drive it on the tune it comes with for a long time and complain about fuel economy and at the end of the day they rubbish microtech when its really the oowners who wont spend the money

but it wont hurt to call haltech and get a tune thats maybe 60% accurate this will give u a good base to start from
they were helpful last time i called them

[BeRad]

already in front of you, asked them for a map that will match my engine the most going from the specs of the engine, haha no jaycar for me im purchasing a haltech o2 sensor for it next week, i just want a good enough tune to get it to a zorst shop then it should be right to start tuning, if i get it back from the zorst shop and it prooves an arse to tune it will go to a dyno im not risking blowing anything up at the moment

but thanks for the info

[thechuckster]

if you're going to the zorst shop before a dyno tune - i'd suggest you either stay with the car or set the rev limiter to 2000rpm. The last thing you want is some workshop goon taking the ute for flogging around the industrial estate and killing the un-tuned engne.

Don't trust them at their word - one brake shop in the sumner park area 'tested' my a master cylinder rebuild by getting the turbo and dump so hot that it made nearby heat-proof paint start to cook/burn and go off-colour (something that 9 months of driving had failed to do). When i collected the car, i was told they just went up/down the freeway to check it was all working...

[sideshow]

does the o2 sensor ave its own unit that tells u the eir fuel ratio

running the o2 sensor thru the haltech or for that case any aftermarket euc is not accurate enough for a good tune

the o2 sensor needs to be connected to an actual air fuel meter for accurate readings