I need a stud!

[thechuckster]

from memory the 'blister packs' of stud kits are about $4-5 and contain a pair of studs and assocated nuts. They are meant for automotive use but i'd suggest a wide washer under each nut to prevent the underside of the nut getting mashed up.

yes, is good idea to replace them so you have 'same age' nuts and studs with the same amount of wear&tear.... but if it was a clunker-run-about car i wouldn't bother.

[Matty P]

It's for my ST185 Group A GT4 so I would prefer to do it right

I was trying to get some ARP brand studs but have had no luck. I don't want to go Genuine Toyota because I suspect they would be more expensive and poorer quality than aftermarket studs.

[Ben Wilson]

The're manifold studs, Toyota designed them for the job.

Just get new Toyota ones.

[Toycrash]

Question: Is this stud between manifold and turbo, or manifold and head.

For sure, use Toyota studs, if you can afford racing with Gr/A ST185, this is the cheapest part of it

If the stud is from manifold to turbo joint, there is no sense using any locktite or else locker. The manifold temp is so high it burns the locker away.

Even at exhaust side of head it might get over 150c where your locker loosens pretty fast.

[Matty P]

I'm talking about the studs that secure the manifold to the head. Just got the manifold back from the machinist and it was rather warped, which explains why the end stud gave way.

I've bought some studs the same as the standard ones from an autoparts store along with some self-locking nuts which are larger than the standard ones (17mm instead of 14mm).

And I got my bag of goodies from Toyota So just need to helicoil this damn hole, replace the studs and we're in business! Maybe I will get to drive my baby again after all!

[takai]

Just remember dont use NyLockers for the nuts, the nylon in the nut has a nice tendency to melt when in close contact with the exhaust. Makes an aweful mess, and you lose all that nice locking ability

[Matty P]

They don't seem to be nylon locking nuts. The guy at Auto 1 said they were the right nut for the job.

Apparently the studs are the same as the ones they use for the Nissan turbo engine in the VL turbo commodore. They obviously have a high demand for them - they have a tendency to blow them all at once!

[Joshstix]

My advice do not pull the other studs as they will most likely damage the threads in the head and this is bad MMkay.

When you do replace the studs, the nuts that come in those blister packs are rubbish. What you really want are the copper nuts with a cut and bend in the side, these will not come loose like the rubbish hi tensile things.

[Matty P]

If the studs are in OK order (ie. not broken) I would have thought that there would not be much risk of ruining the threads?

Surely it is better to have nice new (and all the same) studs securing my freshly skimmed manifold?

I'll post a pic of the nuts that I have, they are apparently self locking and are designed for exhaust manifolds.

[Matty P]

Well here is the an example of the nuts I bought (on the left) next to the standard nut.

They don't have nylon in them, but seem to be oval shaped on the end to lock them on the thread. Not sure how they are supposed to work if you can't screw them right down on the stud

"Nuts with a split and bend in the side"? That is a new one on me!

[takai]

Basically the triangulation on the nut essentially gets the bolt to tap into the softer metal around the head of the nut. What this does is ensure a friction fit at the top of the nut, same as a nylocker would. Heat would only serve to compound the friction fit, and therefore reduce the possiblity of slippage further.

EDIT: This page here is tops for explaining how lockwire works: http://www.beardmorebros.co.uk/websi...o/lockwire.htm

[Matty P]

So these should be the right nut for the job then

Thanks for the advice guys - time to try (again!) to get these damn studs out of the head.