You could try this stuff, I have heard it pricey but it may work.
http://chemtools.com.au/index.php/lu...ze-and-unseize
Hi all,
Got a brake calliper and saddle, the slide bolt into the saddle has seized in place. I'm currently trying to get it out so I can re-use the complete calliper.
I've tried soaking it in wd-40, hitting with a air impact wrench and have just soaked it in vinegar and tried the impact wrench again with no luck. The saddle now looks like new but with a busted slide boot and a seized slide bolt!
I'd rather not heat it up with the TIG, as I don't want to risk warping or damaging it. I could put it in a vice and chain / rope the slide bolt and try to yank it out but I'm pretty sure that would be futile.
Any ideas appreciated.
Cheers!
You could try this stuff, I have heard it pricey but it may work.
http://chemtools.com.au/index.php/lu...ze-and-unseize
Cheers Dave
1977 RA28
1972 TA22
1984 Supra
The heat is the best way, but as u have said you don't want to use it so I'm not sure you will have much luck with out it
i use a plumbers blow torch and liberally apply wd 40 when its "warm" to wick in.
you could play nutty professor with an ice cube .....but usually it works or not
if the slide is damaged to the point where you are replacing it try welding a bar or nut to it for more traction , the welding heat some times breaks the bond
and every time i replace brake pads i squeeze a bit of nickel anti seize into the sliders and give them a bit of love
Remember this is a recreational activity ......
we got toys ! 83 lo lux in matte black..... amazingly 18 rg powered , one day it will run right !
the dinosour 90 gsx r 750 with ohlins and yoshi , and the dirty little secret 125 vespa ,4 speed and kick start
i'd use a pipe wrench and a cheater pipe to get more leverage
There is no substitute for PUBIC inches
Never late in an x8
On important parts it is much better to use an electric air/heat gun as it does not apply a hot spot like a flame does but heats the whole area..
Go get a caliper kit then either one of two things, one needs a BBQ and the other a suitable sized empty but clean paint tin (and that is tin not plastic bucket and yes you will want the lid). Firstly you can either throw the whole lot on the gas BBQ for a while or even in the oven (make sure that the Mrs isn't home) and heat it for a while. Place in vice and using the afore mentioned BFO breaker bar give it a good yank, should come undone. Be sure to let all components cool naturally.
The paint tin method is to place the caliper into a suitable sized paint tin, 3/4 fill the tin with diesel and top the rest off with petrol to thin the diesel then let it soak for a few days, you want a paint tin so you can seal it up for obvious reasons.
I deal with this sort of thing a lot with the rear calipers on the LC76/79s that one of my companies clients has a fleet of in a coal mine. Happens so often that we get good prices on new calipers and I keep and recondition and rotate what comes off using the methods described
His. 2005 GRJ120 Prado VX
Hers. 1995 KZN130 Surf (soon to be replaced by a Rav4)
1981 LN40 Hilux Trayback ute. Now an RN40 with Surf interior
1992 Factory Widebody 2door Surf 1UZ-FE V8 Auto, now for sale
try this: http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...netrant-detail
it is alot more aggressive compared to wd40.
Yeild... Aweosme stuff we use it in the water industry
ST177 UZS131 Crown Royal 'G' the pimping limo like daily 1UZFE 144rwkw
DST17T MS53 68 Crown Custom Wagon 7MGTE 266rwkw
or Inox... all those mentioned penetrating sprays work better than WD40.
Agreed!!!
Rather than fucking it up with too much brute force and ignorance, go to Blackwoods and get a can of Yield! Expensive but awesome. We use it extensively at the steel works (BTW, Fitter and Machinist by trade) and nothing suffers from rust like an old steel works (massive amounts of heat (ever watched 100ish tonnes of molten steel slosh around like water??) and water!)!
And heat doesn't guarantee release. I once had a threaded adjuster on 1 of my cars that I couldn't get to free up with application of heat (oxy torch) without feeling like it was about to destroy the threads. Yield sprayed inside said adjuster, I let it soak for days 'cause I could and then I was able to undo it, clean it and slapped on some never seize.
"Don't worry what people think, they don't do it very often."Originally Posted by oldcorollas
Daily: Glorified Taxi (F6 Typhoon). Out Of Action: Twin-charged Adub. Ongoing Nightmare: Over re-engineered (not) Alfa Romeo 75.
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