picture or b/s?
Got it running today only for afew seconds on aerostart
The bloody shop that did the tune put a password lock on it
So I'll have to take it to my friend and get him to unlock it
Then I can turn off security
Speedo and tacho is adjustable in the tune so should be fine
Water temp we r adding another gauge
Oil I think runs thru engine loom so should work. Didn't get time to check
Repinned is200 obd2 plug to work on the ls1
Modified is200 efi relay to work ls1 but could not find the fuel pump relay or ecu from the is200
So just wired in new fuel pump relay
The is200 workshop manual I have is from a USA model so slightly different to jap spec
But engine bay wiring is abit less now I don't have is200 ecu
picture or b/s?
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
Yes it's b/s
Why the fk would I waste my time posting on here
Seriously some people need to fking wake up to them selves on forums
When u have just spent 12 hours wiring up a motor the last thing u remember is to take a photo
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
I figured the term b/s means bullshit
So I posted
Why the fk would I waste my time posting on here if it was bullshit
Nice effort to get it happening so fast. What ECU was on the LS1 and what security are you turning off - is this immobilisation or so you can change the outputs for speedo etc?
It is amazing what the LS1 is being put into. I had heard about a comprehensive kit for installing them into the Mazda MX5 where everything just fits but I can't see is being licensable under ADRs. It should be fine into the IS200 though.
I tried to install the IS300 56mm radiator today with the IS200 radiator shroud and there is definitely no room for it to fit together. I need to find out if the IS300 shroud is thinner and by how much. Otherwise I will go with aftermarket slimline fans and hope it will fit correctly. I had to put the IS200 radiator back in so it was an informative but disappointing exercise.
I took it to an engineer and he was happy with the work so now I will wait for the transport dept to process his report and give me the approval to take it over the pits. My wife won't drive it until it is all legal so hopefully this won't take too long (expect 4-8 weeks in WA).
Std ls1 ecu is used
There is software out there to turn security off and tune ecu
Demand for it is there in the USA that's y it's easy to do
Demand toyota ecu tuning isn't as big so no one bothers to do it commercially
We can fit ls1 ecu to some motors
Big job but can be done
Not many come close to the processing power on these ecus
Only downfall is u don't get auxiliary outputs
Just fans
Place with this is200 with ls1 also has a wrecking is300
Which he is also finding some part can't be interchanged between the two
Fuel pump assemblies look similar but slightly different
Are the engineering rules strict over there in WA
I recently did a 6lt v8 into patrol harness for shop over there
And also in process of doing a Chevy 6.6 lt duramax for guy over there
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
Time for another update
The 56mm core radiator is now installed with the IS300 shroud and fans plus the variable fans speed control from the Aristo. It was all squeezed in there nicely and seems to work. There must be able 6mm 1/4" space around some bits now with the thicker core, but at least it fits and the ECU is controlling everything instead of having the fans run at full speed all the time. The IS200 shroud cannot be used with the thicker core radiator and the original one only had a 16mm core.
To ensure it was all working and since the factory temp gauge does not work, I installed three gauges over the center of the dash like the TRD setup. The three gauge mount cost me $12 plus some time spent with the dremel, saw and some glue. With a coat of matt black paint it looks almost factory. You can see I have chosen to display temp, boost, and air-fuel ratio (from Tech Edge). A silver bezel around the gauges may tie in nicer to the dash.
Due to a lack of time I have not got it over the pits and I am therefore still running the engine in standard form. The adjustable Konis are a bit stiff when in the softest setting. I changed from the 16" rims to the factory 17" at the same time so this might be partially to blame. Are the Konis meant to be rebuildable so will this give me something more comfortable as well as tighten things up if I get the urge.
3 pod mount before installation
3 pod mount used for IS200.jpg
Finished gauge mounting
Dash with 3 gauges trimmed.jpg
Last edited by BrianRA23; 02-01-2013 at 12:49 PM.
Hey Brian do u know if there a difference in the fuel level sender resistance from is300 and is200
We ran the is300 fuel pump assembly and had to mod it as it has internal fuel pressure reg and since we needed
60 psi fuel pressure for the ls1 this caused issues. All sorted now but I'm not sure if the fuel gauge is doing funny things.
We got speedo and tacho working fine as its programmable in the ls1 software
Just air and temp is not working but air is not hooked up for now
My fuel gauge seems to go down faster than what is required to fill the tank, but I am not sure how much it took to fill it up last time - previously it was 50L. The progression of the needle is smooth and not jumpy so I need to do more driving before I get a better idea. Maybe then I will do further investigation.
I have read that it is meant to reset itself every 1/4 tank and otherwise calculates fuel usage on injector pulses. I can't find any reference to the part numbers for the fuel sender on toyodiy so it is hard to answer the question. BTW - there is also the second sender on the other (right) side of the tank. Not sure how you have modified it and if you have kept the venturi jet pump functionality in the pump/sender setup.
I have kept the setup (after adding a return line to the tank), but have wondered if the flow is too much with the 255lph pump so that the fuel is not being pulled across to the pump side of the tank. I suspect if the flow is too much then it could be forced to flow the other direction if the output of the venturi section is too small
Next time it is low (on the gauge) I might pull out the pump to check the tank level and then see if the right side has been emptied or not.
Brian
Last edited by BrianRA23; 02-01-2013 at 11:59 AM.
The car is still a pleasure to drive and has had a few modifications.
The FIGS front brake caliper brackets and Supra discs have been installed, which are a neat fit under the factory 17in rims. Didn't have a problem with braking before, but I had a bolt come loose on the bracket some time ago (partially damaging the thread) and this gives me the satisfaction it will never fade for my usage.
The simulated output on the Tech Edge wideband controller has been fed into the factory ECU. I have shifted the stoich point and put it to the more economical 16.5 instead of 14.7. With just this change my fuel economy obviously increased, but had a flat spot just after planting your foot where it was a bit too lean. The signal has been run through the UNichip and now when the engine gets over 2psi boost the oxygen sensor output is set to 0V so it refers to the (now adjusted) default maps - now the flat spot is gone and the fuel ratios are good whenever it is loaded up. I got better than 10km/L on the hwy with a bit of hard driving. Other driving is 6-7km/L, but mainly since I am either trying to scare friends, track day, bedding in the brakes or working out how to get the boost levels right. I have since advanced the ignition under cruise and light low, in line with the leaner (slower burning) mixtures, and this should make the economy better again.
A spring is now fitted next to the wastegate actuator. This is because I had read about needing to have a restrictor in the exhaust to prevent overboosting, due to the small wastegate opening. While I had my turbos off (for the fitment of larger compressor wheels and hi-flowing) I also used a die-grinder to open the wastegate. With this larger opening I was only about to get up to 15psi (at high rpm with the hose removed from the wastegate). It seems a few people add the spring to get better control and I need it to kept the exhaust back pressure from lifting the wastegate. ATM I doubt I am going to see any issues with overboosting with my 3.5" HKS Hi Power silent exhaust (with some 3in mandrel sections to get past the diff).
The spring used to keep the wastegate closed can be purchased from Bunnings (in Australia) and is a C-231 made by the Century Spring Corp (USA). Specification is 9/16 x 6 x .072" ( 14.300 x 152.4 x 1.829 mm) - Utility Ext Spring
With the spring installed and the target boost being set to 5V I am getting the 18psi, which I understand is the max for the factory MAP sensor. The car pulls a lot harder now, but only allows full boost once the rpm goes above 3800rpm. I was wondering if the (fly by wire) throttle was being kept closed to control the boost below 3800rpm, but data logging showed it tracking the demand TPS sensor very closely.
For normal driving I don't have a problem with the power developing at high rpm, but I have 5 different maps to choose from and would like to allocate one of those to have the boost being developed much lower and to have a smoother power delivery that can be controlled based on speed.
The Unichip is now controlling the main wastegate and the one for the pre-spooling of the second turbo. By raising the target boost for the pre-spooling the drop in boost during the changeover has been removed. I can't figure out what is causing the system to only allow boost to reach about 5-8 psi below 3800rpm (starts boosting around 2000rpm) and then jump to 18psi after that. My new turbo configuration should apparently easily reach 18psi on the one turbo (good for 250-300rwhp each). It could be the VVTi but I am not sure it can have such an effect on boost levels.
I would appreciate comments from ayone who has seen this and managed to overcome it
Last edited by BrianRA23; 04-07-2013 at 12:06 PM. Reason: Added Spring specifications
Also I am thinking I need a new MAP sensor with a higher rating. Any recommendations?
Re your boosting it might be worthwhile to check the IACV valve?...
I did this up ages ago, might be worth running through...
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...al-system.html
I think 3SGTE goes to 21PSI, but I use, and have characterised the Defi sensor (mainly because I already had one) on my car (can buy off ebay...). It isn't particularly hard to characterise a sensor with known sensor and a pressure source (syringe).
I'm sure there are lot of other options that might even come with characterisation info.
Cheers
Wilbo
It seems possible that the IACV or reed valve could be leaking at 5-8psi.
Ideally I would like the factory ecu to retain control of the pressure tank actuated intake and exhaust valves. They need to be operating correctly and not leaking. From my reading (in the above referenced link), the intake valve should only open after the exhaust valve has opened and allowed boost on turbo 2 to build.
Thanks Wilbo
Bookmarks