For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[RA35GT]

ahhhh.

I just tried it again and it started downloading for me, might be something wrong with your browser or something dood?

If you want I can probably burn a cd for you and post it?

PS. My members ride thread is in the club members only section of the forums mate, which is why you can't see it. (Other members probably have theirs in the forum members ride section which is viewable to all forum members).

[damian]

mate, you are a dead set legend with that offer. this is what Toymods is all about!

"you must spread the love around before giving more rep to 7M-GTE"

i worked out what the problem is - I have to join that site. doh!

joined. D/load complete.

Will unzip and look at later. will be just changing timing chain while motor is out. I don't want to pull it apart as it runs sweet and blows no smoke, so don't want to look inside and scare myself...

block is 11411-36040
head is 88250
cams unsure
sits at 8 grand all day and loves it (god i love these motors)

Thanks again

[o_man_ra23]

Link works for me mate, your internet be teh poozorz. Are you trying from work or home?

On a different note, is there anything else I should be getting done to my engine while I get it re-rebuilt? List so far is:
Block - deck, bore to 92mm to accommodate Arias pistons, bath, paint, welch plugs, ARP main studs, linebore mains
Rods - crack test, bath, peen, de-stress, ARP bolts, linebore big end, replace gudgeon bushes
Crank - crack test, bath, linish/grind as necessary, clean up rear seal surface (metalspray if necessary)
Oil pump - upgrade to high flow if available by then, otherwise nothing
Flywheel - lightweight CrMo item, ARP bolts
Head - deck, bath, mill down head bolt posts, ARP head studs, Cometic 92mm head gasket, already smoothed the humps and casting imperfections out of the ports
Timing - already have new chains and sprockets (excluding cam sprockets - contemplating fully adjustables for a later date)
Valves - re-seat again if necessar, shim
Balancing - full rotating assembly balance
Sump - already extended and added anti-surge plate for long right handers
Ignition - locked dizzy no signal internally, crank angle sensor, ECU controlled spark
Fuel - EFI w/MegaSquirt, 440cc injectors, stock TB, Pintara TPS, internal MAP, wideband O2, Pierburg lift pump to 1.4L surge tank to Pierburg pressure pump (all under car), 3/8" pressure line, 5/16" return line
Turbo - CT26 twin entry, oil and water cooled, low mount, fed by Pod K&N air filter behind battery, to be boxed up at a later date

Did I miss anything? I want this baby to be able to sing a high note, but probably won't rev high except during racing events.

[river]

Hi,

Crank angle sensor?

Low oil pressure sensor, so the ECU kills the engine before it blows up all the time and money spent on it.

I see you got a wide-band sensor. Is that to kill the engine if she leans out too much?

How about 700cc injectors.

Pls show us a pic of the surgeys all under the car. I may have to go that option myself as the smell of petrol in the car makes me home sick for Arnhem land.

seeyuzz
river

[o_man_ra23]

You know up here they pay extra for the smell of fuel in a car...

Check my member's ride thread, the surge tank photos should be in there.

700cc injectors shouldn't be necessary

WBO2 sensor is for tuning purposes mostly. Also allows me to hook up a gauge.

Low pressure switch is a possibility. Would need to do it with a microprocessor probably due to one pressure port being used for the pressure sender, the other being used for the turbo feed. This is something I can add later though, so not a huge issue.

Crank angle sensor is in my list - there is a mob in the UK which sell them.

[checksix]

Devil'sHands, I feel for ya. My last job I had a hard time with the head and I ended up installing bolts into the front left and rear right to attach my engine pulling chain (engine was still in the car), and started to lift the engine out (mounts were still attached), and it didn't take much effort to get it to separate. If this is still an option you might do this to put some pressure on it, then try the soft mallet. I'd suggest a very little heat, but in doing that there is the damage of warping the head, so consider that a last resort.

There is a procedure I learned long time ago in how to hold a crank in position while undoing or tightening the crank pulley. Called the rope trick. Remove the spark plug, and use some soft nylon solid core rope (quarter inch). Put as much as you can down the plug hole. I'd do this on the 2 cylinders that are up (or approaching full up). Once you have as much cord in there as possible try to rotate the crank via the crank pulley nut. I wouldn't go too crazy as i guess you could damage the rod or piston (but have never seen damage meeting nut torque spec or loosening the nut). If you already have pressure applied via the lifting bolts above, this additional pressure from within might be the ticket.

Good luck and please report back the results.

[Nevakikamukau]

Hi Folks,

The 18R GU that I have recently got came without a few of the ancilliaries, so I have the following question: How is crankcase ventilation handled on the 18R GU?

I can see a breather tube in the middle of the tappet cover, but is there supposed to be pressure relief and a PCV at the bottom of the block to relieve pressure in the crankcase area?

Grateful for any advice.

Pete

[Willofan]

Hi Folks,

The 18R GU that I have recently got came without a few of the ancilliaries, so I have the following question: How is crankcase ventilation handled on the 18R GU?

I can see a breather tube in the middle of the tappet cover, but is there supposed to be pressure relief and a PCV at the bottom of the block to relieve pressure in the crankcase area?

Grateful for any advice.

Pete

Hey Pete,
The 18RG has a vent plate with an elbow tube that sits on the block under the inlet manifold (above fuel pump).

[o_man_ra23]

Hey Pete,
The 18RG has a vent plate with an elbow tube that sits on the block under the inlet manifold (above fuel pump).

Not all of them had this. My current one doesn't but a previous one did. The PCV port in the middle of the valve cover is the main PCV port for the engine (the oil drains from the head are sufficiently large to vent the entire crankcase out the top)

[Nevakikamukau]

Thanks Willofan and o_Man_ra23,

Mine has got the plate & elbow plus the vent in the tappet cover, and I assume that they are plumbed back to the induction manifold to burn off the fumes. What I realy want to know is whether the gasses pass through a PCV to prevent backflow and ignition of the crankcase gasses should there be a backfire through the Carbies, and put me into orbit (Houson - we have lift-off!!!).

Cheers,

Pete

[MnToyGuy]

http://members.iinet.com.au/~stepho/manuals/R/

oh damn, its gone

If i can find my green book i will scan the appropriate pages dood.

The link was wrong, here it is:

http://members.iinet.com.au/~stepho/manuals/18R/

[RA35GT]

The link was wrong, here it is:

http://members.iinet.com.au/~stepho/manuals/18R/

ROFLMAO. Thanks man.

I suck at the copy and paste :/

[checksix]

Apparently there are a lot of configurations for the engine vent system. I believe my motor is pretty old as it has the 88210 heads (I was guessing 1973) and has a flame trap on the back of the block under the exhaust maniold. This runs to the intake manifold cross tube. I believe the hole in the valve cover is the intake, and I took to running a small air filter here. I also have to admit I have no idea if this is original, but it is what it was when I bought the engine in 1981. I know the green book I have (1983) does not show it this way.

[Nevakikamukau]

Apparently there are a lot of configurations for the engine vent system. I believe my motor is pretty old as it has the 88210 heads (I was guessing 1973) and has a flame trap on the back of the block under the exhaust maniold. This runs to the intake manifold cross tube. I believe the hole in the valve cover is the intake, and I took to running a small air filter here. I also have to admit I have no idea if this is original, but it is what it was when I bought the engine in 1981. I know the green book I have (1983) does not show it this way.

Thanks Checksix,

Yes the Green book is not helpful with this finer point of detail.

I will probably run both lines to a catch can on the bulkhead with a filtered breather vent. This will eliminate the ignition hazard, but may result in the smell of fumes in the cabin. It is difficult to get complete isolation from the engine bay.

Cheers,

Pete

[Steve M]

Run the lines from PCV lines to a catch can and then vent the catch can back to the main air filter. This way you won't be defected for having an open air filter.
The little filters ontop of the cam cover are not legal and having a filter on a catch can would not be legal either.

Checksix, I bought an 88210 block last year that had that flame trap thing on it. I bought it because I believe that that mounting point will be perfect for a turbo oil drain. Now I have a place to bolt a flange to that doesn't require me to drill into the block or into the sump. YAY! Thank you Toyota!