First turnover of fresh build 200/190/185/180 psi normal???

[Blackcountryboy]

Hey all... Bit confused and could really do with everyone's guidance...

Turned over my new build yesterday and had a few issues. Comppresion across the 4 cylinders (cold) came back at

1=200psi
2=190psi
3=185psi
4=180psi

Its a 3sgte. Forged 185 block with Ross pistons and Acculite rings. 205 head. 1mm cometic head gasket. Afaik CR should be about 9.1:1 (pls correct me if Ive messed up). Should cylinders vary compression so much?

Second issue was as I turned it over with the plugs out but injectors still connected to cjeck for fuel and spark what looked like excessive amounts of petrol/water mix came outta no 1 cylinder...tues im gonna try and turn it over with the injectors unplugged to see if I get liquid. She started but ran rough and missed. Could headgasket not have sealed properly (thin) but still retain high compression? What would you guys do next?

Thanks

Chris

[Blackcountryboy]

Bgb says head stud torque for 3sgte should ne 49nm. So thats what I torqued to. Just read a tread on toymods saying ARP studs need torquing down to 88nm?!? (65ft/ibs)... That seems a hell of a lot!!! Im tusing a cometic 1mm HG and it occured to me tjis afternoon maybe that why im getting what looks like coolant (water) in cylinder 1. Could anybody please tell me what I should torque them to to get a solid seal? Thinkin cos its a tjinner HG maybe it needs clamping down more? Do ARP studs stretch at all even tho thet arent spose to? 88nm/65ft ibs sounds like it should strip threads cos its loads more than what bgb qoutes. PLEASE anybody whos used them on a 3sgte clue me up!!! Thanks. Chris.

[allencr]

Wet Test?
If it had 6 cyl., it would have gone down even more, as the pistons/rings continue to scrape away whats left of any oil on the walls. Excessive cranking?
"what looked like excessive amounts of petrol/water mix came outta no 1 cylinder.."
There's zero reason to use aftermarket studs if you're going to use the factory torque!! And I'll bet that any Toyota head bolts are fully capable of going 20-40% more then factory.
Any HG NEEDS a great surface to seal against, especially the thinner ones.
Good luck. Sorry.

[Blackcountryboy]

Thanks for reply. Makes sense. Will unplug the injectors and retest. Another 39 nm seems alot tho. Just worred nout stripping treads. Anybody torqed ARP head studs down to 88nm on a 3sgte before? Thanks for all your help. Any thoughts are appreciated. Itching to get her back on the road!!! ������

[shrike]

The Headstuds should have come with Torque settings just follow that

[Blackcountryboy]

Was a yr ago only just got round to rebuilding the block. Read twice now (also on.the mr2 forum) 65ft/ibs for ARPs 40 for stock so gonna go for it tues n see what happens. Thanks again for everyone's replies. Fingers crossed this should sort the suspected leak into cylinder 1.

[ToyTA22]

Hey all... Bit confused and could really do with everyone's guidance...

Turned over my new build yesterday and had a few issues. Comppresion across the 4 cylinders (cold) came back at

1=200psi
2=190psi
3=185psi
4=180psi

Its a 3sgte. Forged 185 block with Ross pistons and Acculite rings. 205 head. 1mm cometic head gasket. Afaik CR should be about 9.1:1 (pls correct me if Ive messed up). Should cylinders vary compression so much?

Second issue was as I turned it over with the plugs out but injectors still connected to cjeck for fuel and spark what looked like excessive amounts of petrol/water mix came outta no 1 cylinder...tues im gonna try and turn it over with the injectors unplugged to see if I get liquid. She started but ran rough and missed. Could headgasket not have sealed properly (thin) but still retain high compression? What would you guys do next?

Thanks

Chris

If this is a fresh rebuild as never run over time rings won't have bedded in yet which will cause variations in compression. If you fix leak in no.1 then drive at least 1000kms and check compression again. Seems unusual no.1 is leaking when it is highest pressure.

[Cuzzo]

I doubt you can just retorque now you can see water past the hg.

I suggest removing the head cleaning everything relubeing the head bolts cleaning out the threads and start again.

[Blackcountryboy]

Think ur right. May aswell for piece of mind. Gonna dry crank her tmrw with the injectors unplugged to confirm. Might ne a good excuse to get the head gas flowed while its off ; )

[allencr]

What size thread is it? How much oil on the piston/rings during assembly & how much added since then?
JUST RETORQUE IT.
MARK all the bolt heads, loosen & tighten each one individually in sequence.
How did it loosen up, one long(3/4 of a turn) steady decrease of wrench force with no hop skip jump snap crackle pop snags until its finger tight? If there's oil surrounding the bolt head & washer, wiggle it around abit to get some more lube into it, feel how smooth the socketit feels and then tighten it down again. If it doesn't tighten in one long steady pull, smooth, with your hand& ears feeling none of the above, then it's OK, go to the next, If it isn't smooth after oil/lube, then keep on tightening & loosening, burnishing the threads, until it goes from Zero to the torque(factory + 33 1/3) smoothly in one slow steady, unremarkable turn or less of the wrench.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic697.htm

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[Blackcountryboy]

Retorqued them all to 88nm. 200 psi across all cylinders. No leaks. Purring like a rally kitten. Thanks guys for all your help!!!