Why not just solder the new condenser on the old wiring? O___o
hey all,
I've replaced the cap, points, rotor button on my 18rc and then the guy helping me realised 18rc's do indeed have a condenser.
He thought (and i was under the impression) it's an easy swap out with a new one. Which it was up until i checked out the old one after i'd taken it out and compared it to the new one after fitting it.
two pics to convey basic differences:
And with the new one installed it won't start. Trys, no weird noises but just doesn't quite kick over.
The maintenance manual i have displays a connection from the point at which the wire is crimped onto a metal connector that screws into the dizzy, but only in a kind of vague wiring diagram. Not an actual photo.
The old one did have a connector attached.
So all in all, it's clear this missing wire is the issue, but how can i solve the problem of the condenser not having one?
cheers
Why not just solder the new condenser on the old wiring? O___o
My Daily: NooB's Delivery Vehicle
My wife's Daily: Series B RA40 Liftback 22RE, power steering, AC. Cushy as.
Current Project: NooB 3TGTE swap
Back Burner: 1964 Toyopet ToyoAce, and a Series B TA45 GT coupe
Too many cars
Going to recommend converting to new ignition system, ie elec pickup and control module...
Need to find a 21R dizzy, Igniter and coil for that. They arn't easy to find...
My Daily: NooB's Delivery Vehicle
My wife's Daily: Series B RA40 Liftback 22RE, power steering, AC. Cushy as.
Current Project: NooB 3TGTE swap
Back Burner: 1964 Toyopet ToyoAce, and a Series B TA45 GT coupe
Too many cars
You need to go through the history of the Kettering System and go from there,
it's pickup signal, adjustable dwell circuitry and coil ohm charge time that's relevant.
Then theres ignition advance = rpm/mechanical and vac advance.
MarcusEstevez
I trust my crimping skills more than my soldering skills at the moment. I took the easy way out and recreated what i figured toyota already had - a wire running from the condenser to the ignition coil bolt that didn't have a wire running to it from the ballast resistor.
styler-
So after a little bit of reading, would it be as simple as grabbing all dizzy, ballast resistor and coil off a 21R/22r engine and swap them out? what more is involved? (i had a read of this but it didn't make much sense to me)
I am completely new when it comes to this kinda stuff, but happy to learn.
On a separate note, if i pump the brake pedal in neutral a few times the revs drop significantly to the point of nearly stalling. I'm aware the brakes make use of the engine vacuum (not sure if the right term) but is this normal?
Soldering isn't hard dude =P But crimping is alot more practical... no need to plug the iron in, wait for it to heat up etc etc...
I'm actually going to a wrecking yard tomorrow on the hunt for one of those dizzy's. If theres more, want me to grab one for ya? Apparently it's an easy conversion, everything bolts straight it? I'll try it out if I'm successful on my hunt tomorrow ;P
Also, no Idea what to do with the braking? Thats very odd... Wheres your Vacuum sourced from? Is it hooked up to the manifold like so:
Thats how mines hooked up, is your's different?
My Daily: NooB's Delivery Vehicle
My wife's Daily: Series B RA40 Liftback 22RE, power steering, AC. Cushy as.
Current Project: NooB 3TGTE swap
Back Burner: 1964 Toyopet ToyoAce, and a Series B TA45 GT coupe
Too many cars
Yeah definitely, if there's two i'd love one!
Damn you and your aircon btw
I'll check that out today, mine looks a little different due to stock carbie. But i'll have a peek after work
Cheers!
Man, if you're replaced your cap, points and rotor button also, then why are we all concerned about the condenser?
Basics first
- leads on the right way?
- points gap set (did you grease them also?)
if so,
-are you getting pulse trigger to the coil?
if not,
-check you didn't leave the bloody insulating washer(s) off when you installed the new points and condenser, or they're not cracked and constantly grounding the coil.
After you've got it running, set the dwell and timing and enjoy. You don't NEED to convert to an electronic system, however realize that a points system does require regular adjustments and maintenance.
Also, pictures of how you 'modified' the condenser to fit the old wiring would be beneficial.
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
Yours doesnt have aircon? I've got a whole system if you want it? Bahah!
As much as Electronic dizzy's arn't necessarily needed, It can get annoying maintaining a points type dizzy =P
My Daily: NooB's Delivery Vehicle
My wife's Daily: Series B RA40 Liftback 22RE, power steering, AC. Cushy as.
Current Project: NooB 3TGTE swap
Back Burner: 1964 Toyopet ToyoAce, and a Series B TA45 GT coupe
Too many cars
Hi,
A - check that you have spark to start with.
B - if you have spark did you take the dizzy out when you did this? If so did it go back in the same place ie timing might be out
C - If you have spark then also check firing order
bEn
FJ40 landcruiser
HJ47 landcruiser
FJ55 Landcruiser
MS65 Crown
Cheers for the replies
The cap, points and rotor button were replaced with the help of a guy that definitely knows what he's doing.
The cause for replaced the condenser was simply so everything was new.
Green line is what toyota created with the clip (as well as the blue)
Blue line is all that the new condenser consisted off
What i made was the yellow. Simply an insulated copper wire with ringlets? Bolted much the same as the originals were.
Will this bypass the condenser? By the look of the stock one it was necessary for current from the coil to run through the condenser. (i have no idea if this is how it works though)
Hi,
firstly can you do me a favour and try humouring me by putting the old condenser back on exactly how it was BEFORE you did any of this and see if it starts? That will help rule out if it is the new condenser or not. It wouldn't be the first time that i'd seen someone replace something that wasn't broken with a brand new broken one. Obviously if it doesn't start you're probably going to have to start chasing other things - Points/timing etc.
Further more to that, you don't really need a condenser. IT helps to prevent voltage spikes which can primarily be heard through the radio (stupid buzzing noise or even clicking) You can get away with just the wire from the coil to the dizzy.
Lemme know
bEn
FJ40 landcruiser
HJ47 landcruiser
FJ55 Landcruiser
MS65 Crown
Ah sorry bEn, since putting the yellow wire in place it works
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