1 piece tailshaft that'd fit RA28/3 ?

[TurboRA28]

Hello, does anyone know of a 1 piece tailshaft that would fit a RA28/3 from another car?

Preferably a bit shorter than the standard one.

Thanks
Joel

[The Witzl]

MAKE A CUSTOM ONE

Sydney Driveline Services or something is the place...... ask Stitt, he got his 3" one made there.

[BigWorm]

If it's for your car you should definitely get yourself a new one made up. I've been going to SDS for a while now, & have always been very happy with their service.
When I put my new diff in recently I had a single piece 3" shaft made up, with new everything (yoke, unis, & rear flange) which was about 4-500 bucks.

It's one thing less to worry about when your giving your car 6000rpm launches at the track!

EDIT: their details are, Sydney Driveline Services, 10 Reservoir Av, Greenacre 2190 Ph: 9790 7344

If it's not for your car & doesn't need to be so heavy duty, I seem to recall Rod using an auto TA22s for Tinas 1G RA28, no mods required. I think.....

[emp?]

im using a corona one in my ke30
just got it shortend and new yoke on the back
cost $60 then $45 for new uni's

[ddeane]

Gidday

A RT104 tailshaft is a perfect fit.

Craig

[TurboRA28]

Yeah it's for my car.. I'm finding with the extra powah now the centre uni is coping quite a beating.

the corona shortened sounds the right money... what kinda corona?

[TurboRA28]

How common are RT104 corona's these days?

[The Witzl]

the extremely dodgy option of death sounds the right money... how long until my car catapaults down the road?

fixed for you.

[TurboRA28]

hahaha yes yes very true!

[Mr DOHC]

i just threw one of them in the bin, damn

[sidta23]

Get an engineering shop to cut the ends & weld to straight new shaft all you have to do then is balance it can be done on a lathe, we have done a few for the starlet hotrods some years ago no problems.

[ddeane]

I think that the last RT104 tailshaft that I acquired cost me $20 from the wreckers. However the current tailshaft that I am using (which also cosat $20) I found after searching through the tailshaft pile at the wrecker. It was the same length as a RT104 tailshaft, had the correct ends but has bigger tubing and ran heavier u joints - which by the way cost me heaps to replace. I had it shortened 50mm to accommodate a Mk II diff. Shortening and balancing cost $140. Really not sure what it was off but have a search through the wreckers - you might get lucky.

Cheers Craig

[brett_celicacoupe]

corona markII tailshafts are one piece, and the flange/yoke are the same as yours. they are a bit too long though.

[TurboRA28]

Hmm confused myself a bit now.. I've spent the morning talking to a few different driveshaft companies..

I've always heard 2 piece are the way to go due to weight, pinion and gearbox angle not being as critical, less vibrations and overall stronger.

From talking to some places this morning this has all been backed up by their comments and im leaning towards just a new stronger 2 piece.

Whats everyone think?

[MWP]

I think a 2 piece is the way to go for all the reasons you mentioned.
The only reason you wouldnt do it is due to the extra cost.

[barned01]

aren't you able to do something to the diff housing to keep it in place? then the tailshaft shouldn't be a problem. i can't rmember what it is called but it is like 2 parallel bars working in tandem with each other to ensure the diff doesn't go for a wander in the rotational directions (which sounds like the issue you are having.)

[TurboRA28]

Yeah thats a good point.. Regardless i'll get a new tailshaft just for piece of mind.

But it does seem the diff moves an awful lot, it's got firm noltec bushes in it. Adjustable trailing arms to set the pinion angle..

But when you put the boot into it, the arse squats right down and the diff must end up moving forward quite a bit for the centre uni to be able to touch the bearing carrier thing.

Probably having unequal length trailing arms like Celicas & AE86's etc have isn't going to help the situation.

[brett_celicacoupe]

aren't you able to do something to the diff housing to keep it in place? then the tailshaft shouldn't be a problem. i can't rmember what it is called but it is like 2 parallel bars working in tandem with each other to ensure the diff doesn't go for a wander in the rotational directions (which sounds like the issue you are having.)

you mean like this?




watts link i think its called.

BTW; that pic is of a RA40GT diff in a TA22