Moving MAF Sensor

[Glenno52]

Going to open up the air intake on the 3rz to improve flow and need advice on the relocation of the MAF sensor into a slightly larger custom intake pipe.
Will i create any unforseen problems by fitting it into a custom made pipe in a similar position to the original?
The original has the sensor protruding in from the top, and there are two vertical flat bits of plastic moulded into the pipe just either side of the sensor, and also a horizontal flat bit just under the sensor.
Just wondering what these ar for?
Are they just to guide the air evenly past the sensor? Are they necessary?
Also is the gauze like strainer between the MAF sensor and the air filter just to filter out random spanners,small birds,bits of rag etc
Advice from experience in this area appreciated.
Glenno52

[TC1600]

Altering the size of the pipe will throw the calibration out. The air speed past the sensor cools the wire, which affects the resistance and the computer can work out from this how much air is entering the engine. If the pipe is bigger, the air for a given volume will move slower, so the computer will think less air is going in than is the case. At best this will cause it to run lean, and if the calculated airflow is too far from what it is expecting for a given throttle opening & rev range, then it will recognise this and set an error code.

And yes, the flat pieces are to reduce turbulence for more accurate readings, and the gauze is to keep out the house bricks.

Hope this makes sense, and helps.

[Glenno52]

Altering the size of the pipe will throw the calibration out. The air speed past the sensor cools the wire, which affects the resistance and the computer can work out from this how much air is entering the engine. If the pipe is bigger, the air for a given volume will move slower, so the computer will think less air is going in than is the case. At best this will cause it to run lean, and if the calculated airflow is too far from what it is expecting for a given throttle opening & rev range, then it will recognise this and set an error code.

And yes, the flat pieces are to reduce turbulence for more accurate readings, and the gauze is to keep out the house bricks.

Hope this makes sense, and helps.

Sorry...I'll add a bit more info
The calibration is already out We've just fitted aTRD Supercharger Kit to it (4x4 Hilux)
It came with a Unichip and Fifth injector.
Fitted it all up with standard Intake and exhaust,had it tuned on dyno by authorised Unichip installer. Result....pretty ordinary
So, having a rather flat spot in the graph around 2,500 to 3,500 rpm and not much better after that, we assumed we might have to open things up a bit to allow the Supercharger to do its job.
Have fitted two and half inch straight through exhaust and now wanting to free up the intake which is quiet restricted
1. Where the intake enters the filter housing.
2. at the exit from the housing to where the MAF sensor is and
3.the pipe accross the top of the valve cover.
So, when we do all that, we'll get it re-tuned and hopefully iron out that flat spot a bit.
Do you have any other suggestions if you think we're heading in the wrong direction?

[TC1600]

Lol ok then...

I guess just look for any restriction, ie where the intake is the narrowest. Bear in mind this may be the throttle body, but they are often shaped for good flow regardless. It can help to open up the entry to the air cleaner box if this is on the small side, and a good (read K&N) panel filter will flow better than a stock filter.

Good luck, sounds like an interesting little project.