I've had a problem with one particular fuse blowing and couldn't figure out why. I then realised that when I put it into reverse the fuse would blow. It's the fuse to the instrument panel. Took it to a sparky and he said the reverse switch was buggered and that I'd have to source another one. So in the meantime I thought to myself the other day that if I took the 2 wires off the reverse switch and isolated them, then it wouldn't blow a fuse and I'd have no reverse lights but get my instruments back. Nup. It lasted for a little while and then blew the fuse again.
Has the sparky done a half arsed job at trying to find the short or is my theory incorrect? Why would the same fuse blow if the switch isn't wired?
Cheers, Greg.
1965 RS41 Crown Deluxe - 3R- Lowrider Spec.
1967 MS45 Crown - 2M- Cruiser Spec.
1973 RT81 Corona - 12R- Granny Spec.
1982 XT130 Corona - 1JZ - Drag Spec.
1983 SA63 Celica- 2S- Hairdresser Spec.
Your theory is correct Greg.Cause there is no way known that it should take out your dash lights cause for memory on the older Toys the reverse light circuit does not run on the dash light circuit(I may be wrong).Have you tried just disconnecting the wires from the reverse switch and leave them hanging?
Cheers Brett.
Here are the wiring diagrams I got from the KE dedicated thread (kudos to Banaman who posted them up)
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showpo...ostcount=12497
from
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...ram#post825252
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
You may not have a short but over current to the point where the reverse lights are enough to blow the fuse.
What I would do is put a multi meter (reading ohms) from the load side of the fuse (RED lead) to ground (BLACK lead) with the fuse removed.
Not sure what to expect but at Resistance = Voltage / Current
A 2Amp fuse it will blow when resistance < 6ohms (6=12/2).
So you can then see if you have a short or just higher than normal current draw.
Have a play to see if turning the reverse lights reduces the reading.
Hope this helps
Greg,
According to this diagram
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/5...0wiringbr6.jpg
the reverse switch (back up light switch) connects to the "heater" 20A fuse
this fuse supplies:
-power to reverse lights (via switch, red/white wire to switch, red/blue away from switch)
-heater blower (light blue/red trace wire)
-power for speedo/tacho/combination meter (yellow cable to B terminal)
-rear dofogger (not likely in aus)
first of all, check heater blower/fan switch is off
disconnect the heater blower (does it work atm?) and see if fuse blows.
if that works, check for shorts.
if not, check for shorts in the wire to under the car for reverse switch.
if that all fails, check dash for shorts (ie, unplug stuff bit by bit and see when continuity from loom side of heater fuse (with fuse out) stops being low... (check it is low first tho)
good luck
"I'm a Doctor, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!!
Present: 1973 Corolla KE20 - CA18DET conversion, full resto in (slow) progress. JZX83 Cressida Daily - The BananaBoat
Originally Posted by PlacentaJuan
Thanks for all the info guys.
I'll have to go buy a multi meter so I can check it all.
I followed the wire from the switch on the gearbox up into the engine bay and it comes to a plastic plug joint thing then goes off through the firewall somewhere. I've disconnected the plug and have replaced the fuse and so far so good. Everything works now except reverse lights. If it blows again I'll start tracing wires and see if I can find anything.
Cheers, Greg.
1965 RS41 Crown Deluxe - 3R- Lowrider Spec.
1967 MS45 Crown - 2M- Cruiser Spec.
1973 RT81 Corona - 12R- Granny Spec.
1982 XT130 Corona - 1JZ - Drag Spec.
1983 SA63 Celica- 2S- Hairdresser Spec.