Hey Guys have a quick one for you
The Differential in my RA23 is leaking at the seal from the diff to the drum. Theres four bolts or rivets that hold the inner drum to the diff and its leaking from under there. This exact same leak was the reason my previous diff ran dry and blew up.
How do i go about fixing it? For now ive just been topping the diff up but its becoming worse.
Cheers
Alex
Cheers, Alex
- 1976 TA23 2T Soon to be 2T-GTE with W55, Volvo Dana 30 and 300mm Willwood Brakes. I Hope.
Ok i pulled the outer drum off and found the leak. i saw the four bolts that were supposed to hold the seal shut. the bottom two (where the leak was coming from) were very loose. Tightend them up and and re filled the diff with fluid.
One question is there any torque specs for these bolts? cause i just hit the gas and tightend them till they would go no more![]()
Cheers, Alex
- 1976 TA23 2T Soon to be 2T-GTE with W55, Volvo Dana 30 and 300mm Willwood Brakes. I Hope.
As long as there firm you should be ok there is a seal behind there if it continues to leak may need to replace it.
ok cool would you know where to pick one of these seals up? i think it has stopped for now but dont know ill give it a few more days to reappear before i go buying seals.
Cheers, Alex
- 1976 TA23 2T Soon to be 2T-GTE with W55, Volvo Dana 30 and 300mm Willwood Brakes. I Hope.
Toyota? Repco?
Worst case you could always buy some gasket mat and cut one out or just use the make your own gasket goo.
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
Sometimes the seal is behind the bearing or in the bearing best to buy a wheel bearing kit, if its that type, and get someone to press it on for you.
If the current fix works, don't worry any more.
If the leak comes back, then its worth doing the axle oil seals (cheap from Repco/Bursons/etc). Take the axle out, pry out the oil seal sitting in the end of the diff housing, replace it, refit axle.
I've always done those bolts up til they felt tight and never had a problem.
Hen
I drive a Volvo.... sideways.
I bought the seals at a bearing place right along with the bearings themself, as above they are quite cheap and easy to change.
Axl oil seals shouldn't let any oil past them. The plate your bolts were loose on only really hold the bearing and axle in place, it shouldn't actually provide a seal. If your axle oil seal is gone (which no doubt it is if there is oil that far down) then should the bearing decide it wants to get sticky, it will be able to slip in the housing and cause far worse damage.
Last time I bought axle seals, I just went to my local auto parts shop (time before went to SKF) and for about $7 I had both seals. They don't take too long to put in, but be somewhat careful you don't bend the casing when you are driving them in.
Cheers, Owen - Censorship - degrading Toymods since 2011
My RA28, With Lancer EVO BrakesOriginally Posted by River
Ok ill look into it cause its started leaking again :S
Thanks heaps your help is much appreciated![]()
Cheers, Alex
- 1976 TA23 2T Soon to be 2T-GTE with W55, Volvo Dana 30 and 300mm Willwood Brakes. I Hope.
Hey, I had heaps of problems with my t series leaking past the axle seals. I tried 3 different types along with gasket goo around the seal. Finally I found the Toyota genuine was the best, cost twice as much but it was worth it. The seal seemed better quality and had rubber on the outside to seal against the housing as well.
Also just out of interest, the backing plate is actually designed to divert oil leaks down the back of the drum rather than into it. There is a small channel pressed into it that lines up with a hole in the drum backing plate. also there are mathing notches in the paper gasket and spacer. If you seal this up with sealant any leak will just go out around center hole for the axle onto the brakes.
I had a similar problem with my BorgWarner28 diff(r31 etc).
Changed the axel seals like 5 times, gasket gooed the axel flange, always leaked.
Got the ends cut off and fitted commodore disc brakes with internal drums. Problem fixed.
You might find that you will never fix this problem.
It can be the collar that is pressed onto the axle too. This is what the seal mates to, not the bearing or the axle itself. I wouldn't try to get that off on your own though, as cutting is usually what is needed. Best to take it to a suspension shop and have them press it off/press on new bearing etc.
Cheers, Owen - Censorship - degrading Toymods since 2011
My RA28, With Lancer EVO BrakesOriginally Posted by River
Often a bearing shop will chop the collar off also... a good gouge with a grinder and a smack with a cold chisel will have it off.
There are basically 2 paths for the oil to take, between the collar and the seal and between the seal body and the axle housing.
Make sure that the axle housing has a good clean surface for the seal to mount to (clean any nicks up and make sure there is no old silicone etc on there - a bit of sandpaper does the trick) also make sure that the seal fits nicely over the collar. ( the collar will get a groove in it over time where the seal sits).
The other thing is misalignment between the seal and the axle, if the housing is bent then it may increase the potential for leaks. But you probably have bigger problems than loosing a bit off diff oil if this is the case!