I need to replace all the ball joints and tie rod ends in the front end and would like to know if it's worth trying to find an aftermarket option, or just replace with OEM items?
Thanks
TA22 2TG ITB EFI Build Thread
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i installed powermax ones with no issues
The Project - still building
1974 Toyota Celica TA22
3TGTEU - Haltech F9 - W58 - D series diff (Volvo diff on its way)
GT parts here & there
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12004
Thanks. Looks like there is not much talk regarding this gear so i can assume that owners must just replace with factory or similar (whats available) parts.
How ever i did see some nice gear on Techno Toy Tuning (http://www.technotoytuning.com/produ...hp?vehicleid=1) and they said that they stock most parts they do for the AE86 for the TA22 (or early model Celica's). So i looked at the web site and saw the Lower Control Arms and larger Outer Tie Rod ends and thought it was great stuff.
Made me wander if anyone locally also produced similar gear.
???
TA22 2TG ITB EFI Build Thread
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I'v just ordered all new steering parts for my ma45 from pedders. They also have listings for all early model celicas.
I got the following:
Balljoints
inner and outer tie rod ends
Pitman arm
Idler arm and bush
Retail price was approx $380
1990 SW20 MR2 turbo Gen III 3S-GTE conversion, Microtech, 3" exhaust = 264.9rwhp
1985 JZA61 2JZ-GTE + TO4Z = 442.1rwhp @ 18psi
1991 JZA70 Limited 2JZ-GTE vvti Single turbo In Progress
1997 JZX101 Mark II Grande G
1980 MA45 Undergoing Restoration
i just got the front tension/toe rods from there as well as RCAs
havent fitted them but dont see any issues
as for the control arms, i am not sure on the law for adjustable control arms so you might want ot check that first unless of course the car will be track only
cheers
The Project - still building
1974 Toyota Celica TA22
3TGTEU - Haltech F9 - W58 - D series diff (Volvo diff on its way)
GT parts here & there
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12004
Toyota no longer do them. I was going to weight up good enough verses WILD.
I'll call Pedders tomorrow. A friend recommended Tripple S (or SSS, i don't know) as i can't locate them, but they run out from Japan.
APJS have some as well and i'm waiting on an email. They seemed to have bumped up their prices since last year on a few items, so i'll tread carefully.
TA22 2TG ITB EFI Build Thread
Committee Member of CCCSA http://www.classiccelicasa.com/forum/index.php
HKS7MGT@Yahoo.com
Difficult to come up with a straight forward answer to this.
A consistent will be OEM. You can assume reasonable quality but the price may be high.
With the after market stuff you are never sure what you are getting and price is not always a guide. I have had after market ball joints and tie rod ends fail after several years. Used to be able to rely on the quality from Repco but not so sure these days.
Triptec's advice to source from a suspension specialist is most likely the best approach as they would be in the best position to know what is good and what is not. Its where I tend to buy from. You might also like to put the OEM v Aftermarket question to them.
Craig
I had a bad accident on a straight freeway once after an aftermarket tierod end failed. Essentially it bent after I hit some standing water which resulted in the car spinning off the road backwards.
Problem of course is that OEM is barely available. And in my case (KE15) so is aftermarket. Virtually everything is obsolete, so you have to try and hunt stuff down NOS.
Another option is to simply replace the boot, if the actual joint condition is still OK. I came across an Australian catalogue on the net somewhere that lists a whole range of replacement boots for tierods and balljoints. Apparently they are available from suspension shops and possibly repco.
Neighbour Don Dawson, who saw the wombat's body, said this did not appear to be the case. ''It looked quite healthy apart from the fact it was dead,'' he said.
KE15 Sprinter SL
KE25 (to be 3TG TE27)
AE86 4AGE GTV
SA suspension centre in Pooraka are pretty good for getting suspension parts (unless you live way dwon south, then it will be a bit of a hike). They are on Ween road. I never brought any parts for my Celica from when I had it, but there website says they stock hard to find bits.
I had some powermax ones one my RA23, but sold the car after a couple of years, so I can't really say anything about longevity
Oh, almost forgot www.sasuspension.com.au
Last edited by Lachie; 05-08-2009 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Added URL
Got my report card. Four A's, one G and one E! I Think I should study harder so I can get a Z or a T....
RIP Colin McRae 1968 - 2007 "Straights are for fast cars. Corners are for fast drivers"
Gee i can't be too carefull after all. T3 had the outer tie rod end with a 5/8in ball joint on it. They do need your steering knuckle though to match the hole and it comes with a 'tube' too (as Toyota refered them as).
Can i ask a general question on the matter? Are both the 'Tubes' supposed to be straight? The left hand side Tube between the inner and outer tie rods on my car has a bend in it and i'm thinking its there cause i've been hitting it for days on end it before i gave up and deceided to take out the entire drag link out in one piece with tie rods in place.
TA22 2TG ITB EFI Build Thread
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Thanks Lachie. They're not too far from where i am so i'll call them tomorrow.
I could drop off the drag link copmplete with tie rod ends and the control arms and get them to do all the hard work. I'll have to bring it back around to get the alignment donet thou, that's all.
TA22 2TG ITB EFI Build Thread
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1976 RA23 Celica - 3SGE Blacktop Beams Powered!
1994 KZN130 Surf - Daily 3ltr Turbo Diesel Goodness!
Update. There are a few places in Adelaide that sell Tie Rod Ends and Ball joints for the TA22.
- SA Suspension - Brand: 'Road Safe' (on the shelf)
- AJPS - Brand: 'Transteer' (no longer do the PowerMax)
- Kent Engineering - Didn't catch the brand name, but they are confident about availablity of parts. Have heard great stuff about this place actually!
All the above are interested in fitting the parts as well.
TA22 2TG ITB EFI Build Thread
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aftermarket parts arent that hard to find!!
three 5 (or 555) stock parts for TA22, as do powermax.
Both are readily available from any decent parts shop!!
PROBLEM SOLVED.
...... butt scratcher?!
the 555 is good stuff, japanese made too. It has a substantial cost premium over the chinese stuff though.
555 actually made the ball joints OEM for Toyota, so the 555 branded ones are OEM quality. I wouldn't bother with anything else personally.
The bend you see in your tie rod end is actually to cater for the balljoint on your idler/pitman arm and is factory, so no you didn't bend it.
Cheers, Owen - Censorship - degrading Toymods since 2011
My RA28, With Lancer EVO BrakesOriginally Posted by River
I just bought all these for my TA22, I used all aftermarket parts and the quality was good, just through my local Bursons Auto Parts. I did have to get a 555 Idler arm though, and it was difficult to source, but they are still available genuine if you get stuck.
I will add that I did swap 1 ball joint and 2 outer tie rod ends for better quality units, but it was just matter of saying this is not good enough order me a different brand, and checking the quality when they arrived.
You should not have a problem, and all were reasonably priced.
Cheers Brendan
Neighbour Don Dawson, who saw the wombat's body, said this did not appear to be the case. ''It looked quite healthy apart from the fact it was dead,'' he said.
KE15 Sprinter SL
KE25 (to be 3TG TE27)
AE86 4AGE GTV
I think both of us have our wires crossed Parrot. I was actually talking to the OP, but after re-reading his post, his tie rod (the 'tube') should be straight, not bent. When removing any ball joint, undo the nut, then hit the side of the 'hole' (ie the drag link, or steering knuckles)... if you are replacing the ball joint you can hit the shaft, but it is unlikely to help much.
Cheers, Owen - Censorship - degrading Toymods since 2011
My RA28, With Lancer EVO BrakesOriginally Posted by River
Yeah, the inner tie rod did not want to budge out (actually is still stuck on the drag link). I'll leave it to the workshop to get off.
Since Toyota do not have any 'tubes' available, i'll have to either buy a second hand one from the wrecker (cheaper option) or buy some aftermarket new ones. AJPS had them for $170 a pair with outer tie rods too. I'm thinking about it...
I'm wiating on a few quotes to come back before i decide who'll do the work.
Thanks for all your feedback.
TA22 2TG ITB EFI Build Thread
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