Car is a Z20 soarer with 1g-gte.
On Monday I was driving up a hill and suddenly the car started to loose power so I gave it a small amount of more throttle and the revs dropped and the car stopped just like the ignition was turned off.
On initial inspection I pulled the dizzy cap off and the bolt retaining the rotor button was stuck to one of the reluctor pickup magnets.
I replaced the the rotor button that was in as fair shape as mine and a new dizzy cap which was close to new...............nothing.
Checked the igniter/coil for spark and nothing. The coil resistances were all in spec but I just replaced the unit and still the car doesn't start nor does there look like the igniter/coil pack is doing anything.
I checked for 12v at the igniter and it appears to be receiving power.
The ECU is not throwing any codes.
The starter motor does sound like it is under less load than usual when starting. It occasionally sounds like the invex gear is not throwing but I have been told that the engine fan is turning while cranking.
Right now I have no idea what to do, I guess the issues sounds like it is upstream of the igniter between the ecu bit I have no idea how to test that.
Suggestions?
Rob:
Pull lid off ecu and visually inspect, if u pm me your email addy i can send u some pin out test voltages.
How did u test coil for spark?
Pull main coil lead off and let it hang about 25mm away from coil and crank it over - should see spark easily jump that far ( large gap simulates load and prove coil works). Have seen them pass continuity etc but fail under load.
Just a suggestion
Cheers Rosie.
1977 RA28 1GGTE - never ending project
Cough 'yaris' Cough - don't ask.
Tested it two ways:
1. Plugged a spare spark plug and lead onto the end of the coil and then grounded the plug.
2. Unplugged the HT from the coil off the dizzy and held the end around 10mm away from part of the engine.
Today I pulled the upper timing cover off, although the belt isn't snapped it has about half an inch of deflection with no applied force. It is also covered in cracks so I will replace it.
But could this be the cause of my problems, I still don't see how this will stop the igniter from functioning?
I will do a visual inspection of the ecu tomorrow.
Rob
Could be the alternator.
No charge issues.
Timing belt missing 10 - 15 teeth doesn't help your motor run.
Oh snap!Originally Posted by Big rob
Cheers
Wilbo
That'd also probably explain why it sounds like there's less resistance than normal when cranking - if its missing teeth your cam timing is probably massively out.
But you're right, that wouldn't explain why the ignitor isn't working... unless the ECU is smart enough to compare cam angle to crank angle, detect a mis-match and not fire the coil to prevent epic engine failure?
(PS. Still working on those part numbers... had to work out which disk had your car on it)