Hi
Age has caught up to my power window switch![]()
What would be the best way to fix it properly - If I glue it back together chances are it will just snap again.
Any ideas?
Thanks
![]()
Do you have the broken bits? If not, just get yourself another one. If you do, my solution to repairing plastic is this:
Using a soldering iron, melt all of the cracks together on both sides, Sand the ridges on the face off and clean it well. Use Araldite to fill in the soldered areas, and the back. Apply more Araldite to the areas where you can like the back. I find soldering in a criss-cross pattern to the flat sections on the back gives it something to bite to. Sand it all smooth then paint it black to mimic the factory finish.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
Yes - still have the broken bits. I think repair is my only option; as it's an auto power switch from a XX ( i think ) fitted to a MA61.
Thanks for the suggestion.
there are some around... I got rid of an old ma63 that had that type of switch, and I've seen others. Agree with Nath's method - epoxy, sandpaper, and plastic paint (although I used vinyl dye, which worked suprisingly well)
what about cutting a nice piece of stainless or brushed aluminum and making a new fascia that wont crack again?
- ma61 + 2jz-gte + v160 + 3.5 torsen
Vinyl dye works well if it's not broken, not so good if you've had to repair it. Paint hides imperfections better![]()
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
I was thinking of trying that - but the cover ( fascia ) clips over the actual switch part - I don't think I could replicate that using metal.Originally Posted by rob
Hi,
Go to a Hobby store and buy some sheet plastic - the stuff that is used for scratch built models - and cut it to size... actually cut it a little bigger. Cut out the hole that will take the switch, then use a heat gun to soften the plastic so it matches the arm rest contour.
Then use araldite or some other strong glue to attach the plastic to the arm rest. Make sure you clean-up and then roughen the arm rest where the glue will be applied, so it sticks well.
Then take the arm rest to a car trimmer and get them to re-vinyl it. This will cover the plastic base you put it and also help keep it secured.
Then insert switch etc and re-attach arm to door.
seeyuzz
river
The thinking man's clown and the drinking woman's sex symbol
RA25GT - There is no substitute | 18R-G - Toyota's Dependable Masterpiece
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Fibreglass the underside.Originally Posted by JustCallMeOrlando
It will be stronger than original.
Originally Posted by JustCallMeOrlando
Maybe you could use something like araldite glue to glue the plastic bits back?
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=43837
win win win win
.
It won't fit without mods.
araldite glue is crap.. & should not be used to fix plastic....................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Originally Posted by Z2TT
you can use the same glue, you would use to build those plastic model car's, planes, etc....
or as i use.. the industrial strength "Weld-on #16" glue... (you may have prob's finding this)
but this is the glue they use in industry to join plastic parts....
it melts the two parent parts just like when you use a mig or ark welder on steel...
Project: '82, GA61 XX
Sweet - $20Originally Posted by GA61XX
http://www.allstarplastics.com.au/sh...t=Acrylic+Glue
Cool... you found some...
i've used this glue to fix , grills, consoles, dash faces, etc....
cheers
Project: '82, GA61 XX
I've used Araldite (2 part epoxy resin) to repair my centre console. The whole section where it connects to the base was broken. This glue fixed it perfectly and is a strong as the original plastic (if not better) and dried clear, you can't even tell it's been repaired.Originally Posted by GA61XX
Clean the surface properly and make sure that the bits fit back together nicely and it'll work perfectly.
Kind Regards,
Kurt.
1998 ER34 ニッサン スカイラインGT- T
RB25DET 5 Speed Manual | Blitz SE Return Flow FMIC | Greddy Profec II Spec B BC | Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust
sorry to disagree... but araldite is only good for wood.....Originally Posted by JetspeedCamry
yes it will bond the plastic... but it will not weld the plastic like "Weld-on #16"
araldite will age & let go.....
i've just finished fixing the front plastic's on an old jukebox.. had to remove all the araldite some one else had used.......
i've been using this product for 20yrs to repair plastic....
it will weld, ABS, Styrene, Acrylic, etc
it will not fix Nylon or Poly Prop'..
for Poly prop' it is best to use a soldering iron & a filler rod...
Last edited by GA61XX; 22-01-2009 at 12:21 PM.
Project: '82, GA61 XX
Fair enough! Good info! I'll remember that next time i repair something, seems like the stronger option.
Kind Regards,
Kurt.
1998 ER34 ニッサン スカイラインGT- T
RB25DET 5 Speed Manual | Blitz SE Return Flow FMIC | Greddy Profec II Spec B BC | Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust
Take it you didn't try the wreckers, ebay international sellers, nor a WTB here ?
If worse comes to worse, and you're desiring the original unrepaired look, maybe yahoo Japan auctions thru one of the sites sponsors ?
Araldyte also has a melting point somewhere around 80 degrees C. I have seen items made using Araldyte as the bonding material fall apart within a few hours sitting in a car in the sun.
Another item is JB Weld, available at most auto stores. And another thing you can do is add in a black colouring powder to make it look more like the original.
Cheers, Owen - Censorship - degrading Toymods since 2011
My RA28, With Lancer EVO BrakesOriginally Posted by River