stupid 1G + wolf

[-=DV=-]

so yesterday on my way home from the dyno day..im slowing down for a roundabout...step on the clutch..as the revs drop as normal..it doesnt even try to idle and just dies. that was a little odd..what was more odd is when i tried to start it, it would turn over but not fire. after pushing it off the road and taking a look at the diagnostic leds on the wolf when i turn it over i notice that the wolf isnt firing the injectors or the plugs!

i figure its getting no signal from the dizzy so i pull that out, and then realise that rather than having 2 teeth on the shaft like a 3s so that it cant go in the wrong way...it has 14 teeth on the shaft so it can go in any number of 13 wrong ways. so i can turn the motor to tdc..but how the hell am i supposed to know where the dizzy should be sitting at tdc?...oh...and any ideas about the lack of injector/ignition signal issue?

[hosking1991]

On the older stuff (18r 18rg) i set motor to tdc and set the rotor button to kinda line up with no 1 on the cap this will give you a very rough timing setup (should fire up with this method) (someone please correct me if im wrong)

hope that helps

[auto351]

On the older stuff (18r 18rg) i set motor to tdc and set the rotor button to kinda line up with no 1 on the cap this will give you a very rough timing setup (should fire up with this method) (someone please correct me if im wrong)

hope that helps

True, the only thing to watch out for is TDC occours twice and you could end up 180 degrees out if you only look at the crank markings.
You will most likely need to use the timing belt as a referance

Lack of injector & Ignition First point to check would be power & fuses.

[-=DV=-]

thanks. all fuses are fine and power isnt an issue..the ecu is telling me its not firing the plugs or injectors. i guess i just have to get a laptop or hand controller onto it to find out if its getting an rpm signal or not

[lexsmaz]

The easiest & quickest way to find TDC firing is remove # 1 spark plug & get someone to just crank the motor in very small increments & have your finger over the plug hole at the same time, when you feel the compression come past your finger stop cranking, you will then need to turn the motor slightly to align the crankshaft timing mark, so it should now be on TDC firing on # 1 cylinder, then insert the distributor & as mentioned have the rotor button pointing to # 1 lead in the dist cap, some dizzy's have a notch in the housing that the rotor should point to, which is again # 1 cylinder .. You might need to possibly do a bit of fine movemnts of the dizzy to get it to start, then re-adjust the timing with a timing light once its all ok ..

[-=DV=-]

long story short...my dizzy doesnt have a rotor button and plugs for each lead...the thing runs coil packs...so in my dizzy i have like 3 sensors and a small pickup...and i have no idea where the pickup should point at tdc

[lexsmaz]

Time to refer to a workshop manual, which will definately tell you then ..

Maybe even Google it ???

You have lost me without seeing it ...

[CrUZida]

and i have no idea where the pickup should point at tdc

Exactly where it was when it was setup/tuned.
Depending on what the timing offset is set at, it could be anywhere.
Its probably fairly safe to assume it was setup at TDC, but it depends how clued up the installer/tuner was.

Worst case you have 14 attempts to get it right, once you figure out what is causing the problem though.

[-=DV=-]

hey cruzida..not sure where the old owner got it tuned and set up so i cant even make a phone call to find that out....since i dont have the gear i need to plug into the wolf and find out exactly whats going on...and i dont have the gear i need to test the sensors in the dizzy...i just made a phone call..got a tow truck and dumped it on a local performance shop. they happen to be the wolf distributors and tuners in newcastle so they should be able to sort it all out...they can put a second tune with mroe boost on it while they have it too.

[YLD-16L]

they can put a second tune with mroe boost on it while they have it too.

Ordinarily you'd just have one "tune" in the ecu mapped up to whatever boost you can/want to run. Not two indivdual tunes, it's pointless, unless you plan to use different fuel with each tune eg 98 and C16 etc.

Don't get ripped with a "second tune" for more boost.

[-=DV=-]

not their idea...it was mine..reason being it is my daily..but 200rwkw @ 18psi is more than enough for driving around on the street...but id like to up to 22-24 for track work...or nights where im feeling particularly adventerous...being my boost is controlled by the wolf as it is..id need to re tune to up it..so why not have 2 seperate tunes that you can switch between on the fly...if the ecu supports it

[YLD-16L]

not their idea...it was mine..reason being it is my daily..but 200rwkw @ 18psi is more than enough for driving around on the street...but id like to up to 22-24 for track work...or nights where im feeling particularly adventerous...being my boost is controlled by the wolf as it is..id need to re tune to up it..so why not have 2 seperate tunes that you can switch between on the fly...if the ecu supports it

Or just one good tune for pump fuel and switch between boost levels.

No adjustability to control the boost level easily with the Wolf then I gather??

If your car was having temp issues at 18psi I don't think 22-24 psi is going to help you're situation on the track either, unless of course you're only talking about upping the boost for the drags, not circuit?

Let us know what it runs on their dyno at 22psi+, no doubt it should be a healthy number

[-=DV=-]

hey man yeah the only way i konw of to up the boost with the wolf is to change the tune. im not to fresh on how everythign works with it. but the guy that tuned it did tell me if i wanted to play with the boost and what not id need all the software and id need to really know what i was doing lol. im looking into a few options for cooling for the circut..but you are spot on the money..its mostly for the drags. ive got the MT ET drag radials and i want more powahhhh lol

[YLD-16L]

hey man yeah the only way i konw of to up the boost with the wolf is to change the tune. im not to fresh on how everythign works with it. but the guy that tuned it did tell me if i wanted to play with the boost and what not id need all the software and id need to really know what i was doing lol. im looking into a few options for cooling for the circut..but you are spot on the money..its mostly for the drags. ive got the MT ET drag radials and i want more powahhhh lol

Good stuff, so given you don't have the software etc they can set up the Wolf to switch between boost/maps with a switch or button then??

Have you pin pointed any areas you can improve the engine cooling since you went to EC?

[-=DV=-]

yeah, it has a memory chip for just that, to hold a second tune. apparently you can set up a button or a switch off one of the pins in it that will switch between the tune on the ecu and the tune on the chip on the fly. atleast thats what im told by the guy that tuned it and the guys that have it. so thats looking promising.

ive looked at a few things. first off the bracket that holds my intercooler on blocks ALOT of the radiator. and when i was over there pulling the front end off yesterday i noticed that my pipework is that tight and my front bumper sort of comes down and under the cooler and squishes it in real tight anyway (i took the bracket off and couldnt budge the cooler as hard as i tried to)...so there is no need for that bracket at all. i
m also looking into an oil cooler and water injection. maybe some ducting to grab more air from the front of the car and piush it into the radiator aswell.

[YLD-16L]

yeah, it has a memory chip for just that, to hold a second tune. apparently you can set up a button or a switch off one of the pins in it that will switch between the tune on the ecu and the tune on the chip on the fly. atleast thats what im told by the guy that tuned it and the guys that have it. so thats looking promising.

ive looked at a few things. first off the bracket that holds my intercooler on blocks ALOT of the radiator. and when i was over there pulling the front end off yesterday i noticed that my pipework is that tight and my front bumper sort of comes down and under the cooler and squishes it in real tight anyway (i took the bracket off and couldnt budge the cooler as hard as i tried to)...so there is no need for that bracket at all. i
m also looking into an oil cooler and water injection. maybe some ducting to grab more air from the front of the car and piush it into the radiator aswell.

Does your BMW still run the undertray toward the lower front of the engine bay? That'll probably help more to pull air through and have more benefit than trying to push more air through from the front if it's not there.

A good oil cooler will make a huge difference to not only oil temps but also coolant temps, well worth it.

I run an intercooler/radiator sprayer and that makes a huge difference at the track (only time I use it) to inlet temps and a mild difference to coolant temps, water injection works even better so would be well worth it.

[Mos]

On all the engines with dissies/CAS' (with teeth) that I've played with, the cam under the oil filler cap (710 cap) has a notch to show it's at No1 TDC, and both the dissy casting and the gear/shaft have a notch in them that you line up to place it (the dissy/cas) at No1 TDC.
The same may or may not be true for a 1G....

[-=DV=-]

Does your BMW still run the undertray toward the lower front of the engine bay? That'll probably help more to pull air through and have more benefit than trying to push more air through from the front if it's not there.

A good oil cooler will make a huge difference to not only oil temps but also coolant temps, well worth it.

I run an intercooler/radiator sprayer and that makes a huge difference at the track (only time I use it) to inlet temps and a mild difference to coolant temps, water injection works even better so would be well worth it.

nah the undertray is nolonger there. i know alot of people with E30's so it shouldnt be too hard to track one down..and might be well worth my while. i just finished washing the gt4...and i realllly dont wanna sell it now lol

[celicaboy_2000]

If the car just stopped, dont touch the postion on of the CAS, thats not your problem. Its not getting any signal from the CAS causing the computer to think the motor isn't spinning therfore no ignition or fuel. Pull the plug out of the Wolf and put back in. On Ver 4 and up there is another plug that will go to the CAS disconnect it and connect back up, check the wiring at the CAS for any broken/ loose wires. If all that looks ok maybe your pickup in the CAS has shit itself! Also on ver 4 and maybe other versions have diagnostic LEDS, you mentioned that the injection LED isn't flickering and neither is the ign but there should also be a LED that should flash when the motor is turning (the CAS signal).

Matt

[-=DV=-]

thanks celica boy i was going down the same train of thought when i pulled it out after i found the wiring from the cas to the ecu wasnt the issue. turned out the pickups in it were fine..id pulled the top of the timing cover off to make sure it wasnt a snapped belt and everything looked and felt fine....scratched my head for a while....then sent it ff to the local wolf ppls....turns out it had stripped the teeth off the belt down the bottom and split and snapped down the bottom aswell..but all the top was still tight lol.