Spigot bearing removal pictures.

[maurice c]

HI i've taken some pictures of a spigot bearing removal for reference.I used the wet paper method where you stuff wet paper into the center of the bearing and hit a suitable sized bolt into the middle of it with a hammer. I used an old 18r head bolt, these bolts are a great fit when putting your engine on an engine stand as well. Much more usefull then the 18rc that they came from.

Heres the crank after the bearing was removed.

Heres what came out of it.

Heres the new bearing after been tapped back in with a proper sized socket. Now off with the flywheel and new seals for all.

[Sunchaser]

You can also do this with grease as well. You also get the extra benefit that it will prevent rust rather than water running everywhere and possibly causing it.

Just remember to use the best fitting bolt etc. If it's too small it won't work and you'll make a mess, to tight there is a risk that it'll jam in the bearing.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

Suprising amount of room behind the spigot bearing. Good to see a visual. Cheers

[tricky]

Good one! Last time I did this, I used a makeshift knockout hammer. It involved 1 x 13mm bolt head, slid into the bearing so that the bolt head could sit behind the bearing. This was held in place using a suitably sized stick, sourced from the garden. I then put an RA23 steering box mounting hole over the other end of the bolt, so that is was free to slide. I put two nuts, locked together on the threaded end of the bolt and pulled, a la slide hammer. Worked first time The most difficult part was finding a stick of the right diameter and mechanical properties.

[DeftAnesthetik]

You can also do this with grease as well. You also get the extra benefit that it will prevent rust rather than water running everywhere and possibly causing it.

Just remember to use the best fitting bolt etc. If it's too small it won't work and you'll make a mess, to tight there is a risk that it'll jam in the bearing.

it's suprising how difficult these can be to remove, i used the grease method myself (after fighting for a while) it works great, and yes it is preferable over water for the reasons stated above.

[CHB]

what is the use of this spigot bearing? it is there for centering the gearbox input shaft?

[oldcorollas]

1234567890

[maurice c]

That puller is dare I say, Ubercool. Never seen one before.

[tricky]

Yes, they are fantastic if you have $200 to throw at a tool which you will use very occasionally. If I have any level of organisation when I tear an engine down, I'll borrow a puller from work (where I use them all the time- Very good investment in that case), but the DIY slide hammer is free. And no mess!

This post really is a good demonstration that there is more than one way to skin a cat!

[oldcorollas]

umm.. $30-35 here
http://www.astro-p.co.jp/cgi-bin/sea...?2010000000038

i'm soooo getting one

i'll hire it out for $5 a go

anyway.. wet paper is sooo much better an idea than grease

[maurice c]

Well worth the 5 bucks I'd say.

[tricky]

Dude, I need to stop buying shit from my local specialist tool shop and start searching teh intahwebz! I'm totally buying one now

[maurice c]

This would be idle for that annoying w50 rear seal as well, I struggled for a while with that one.

[Moppitt]

At least toyota use a bearing there, unlike land-rovers (among others) of old that used a sintered brass bush that was guranteed to be noisy after about 50,000km.

Funny thing was that it was about $600 (bad gearbox to r/r) labour for a $4.50 part and that when we greased the bush on refitting (unlike new, and against the t.s.m. instructions, was never a problem again.

I hydrauliced a bunch of them out using the grease method and a shagged input shaft that still had the gear on the end to give a nice big target to hit. That was a great aggression release.

Then I found a puller that would attach to the slide hammer, less fun but faster

[love ke70]

1234567890

i have one of them doo daas, think it was under 40 bucks, from...you guessed it, a bearing shop
makes me a very happy boy it does

[Bahnugget]

i have one also! very cool tool (it even looks mean!)

that wet paper idea is good too! i didn't think of that.

[The Witzl]

i'd just like to dig this thread back up....

today i was attempting to remove the spigot bearing from a 20V 4age engine, and tried to use the grease method. It was working, until the front cover of the bearing popped off and grease just started to squeeze between the ballbearings.
Of course this means the grease was now not working.


I have to give Maurice some rep for the wet paper trick - it worked PERFECTLY.
I used some old newspaper, torn into small matchbox size pieces and soaked in a cup of water... smooshed them in with a screwdriver, and BASH... out came the bastard spigot bearing.

YAY!!

[Mos]

what is the use of this spigot bearing? it is there for centering the gearbox input shaft?

It locates the front of the input shaft and, indirectly, the output shaft.
The input shaft has one bearing (input shaft bearing) in the case of the gearbox, and the second bearing holds the output shaft. The spigot bearing is needed to locate the very front of the input shaft otherwise there is nothing locating the shaft properly in the assembly.
Mos.

[Moppitt]

A thought that just occurred to me, many FWD cars seem not to have spigot bearings because of the short input shaft length, yet the same engine with a rwd gearbox will have a spigot bearing (think of a 4AGE, fwd, no spigot, RWD, spigot).

Would it be worth fitting a spigot bearing if your making a pile more power than standard (say 4agte) even if still FWD? Surely the extra stability on the input shaft couldnt hurt... could it?

[Mos]

The FWD input shaft goes all the way across the box and bearings are located just behind the clutch release bearing and on the other side of the box, ie near the ends of the shaft, far apart.
The FWD input shaft does not have a spigot (knobby end).
Mos.