For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Mr DOHC]

Norbie: that's a very clean looking workshop floor you have there under the eyesore - would you like some used diff oil (mixed with unknown waste solvents) and wheel-bearing grease to return it to it's native oil-stained finish?

or failing that, just buy my commodore, it'll make it messy as fuck

[Trent-KE30]

Hey Adam, per your KE30 18R-G how hard was the conversion?, got any more pics?

First time ive seen this done,

Trent

[Gleno28]

Thanx Witzl. Going to order what I need and get this thing running again.

Have a question for anyone that might know this. I have notice that most the 18r-g* on here and other sites have a different rocket cover than the one I have. I am interested to find out what it is off (18r-GE ?) Nothing gained, nothing lost?



Thanx for your time
Adam

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KE-30 Corolla
18r-GU 88250 2lit Twin .45 Webbers

Hey Adam, your cover matches the one i had on the 18RGEU (88270 head), but... also matches one off a 18RGU (88253 head), but i'd say later gen 18RG's, i'll see if i can get some pics up

18RGEU


18RGU

Glen.

[Norbie]

Norbie: that's a very clean looking workshop floor you have there under the eyesore - would you like some used diff oil (mixed with unknown waste solvents) and wheel-bearing grease to return it to it's native oil-stained finish?

What you can't see is the floor under where the Supra is usually parked. I have oil stains aplenty, don't you worry.

[The Witzl]

The cam covers with the "DOHC" raised text and oil cap on the intake side are from 18R-GEU's..... it's not at all uncommon for cam covers to be swapped around though, as some people actually seek out the 18rgeu cover for it's "DOHC" label.


Phill....
that's pretty weird how your's connects to the vacuum advance on the dissy - in fact that's just all wrong by my understanding.
Vacuum advance dissy's are supposed to be connected to a vacuum port that only gets vacuum when the throttle is JUST cracked open. It shouldnt have vacuum all the time.... otherwise at 5000rpm when you lift the throttle off, you are at max mechanical advance due to the weights, and then suddenly it advances another 10 or so degrees on TOP of that max advance..... not cool!

I have used one of the 2 ports on the throttle body as these are just in front of the butterfly, as described above

I'll try to draw up my conceptual understanding of the vacuum system...

[scootaphill]

This is not really the place but...

What sort of valve to piston clearance (on overlap at 10deg) are you guys running... im moreso intrested in the INTAKE valve to piston...

im also intrested in the availability of stronger after-market springs

cheers
phill

PS karl my dissy has two vacum hoses. if 1 is closest to the body and 2 in furtherest from the body the formentioned vacum line is connected to number 2...

[Mr DOHC]

i run the springs by performance springs, PN RR4,about $150 a set, can hold my valves at over 8000,
they are doubles too

[scootaphill]

thats great but what piston to valve are you running on the intake?

ps wahst happened to your avator

[ta22gt]

Does anyone have or know where i can get a copy of the 18r engine manual.The older green covered one that covers 18rgs.
Thanks Nev

[tricky]

Yep. They pop up on e-bay frequently. Probably one a week or so.

[Steve M]

Phill....
that's pretty weird how your's connects to the vacuum advance on the dissy - in fact that's just all wrong by my understanding.
Vacuum advance dissy's are supposed to be connected to a vacuum port that only gets vacuum when the throttle is JUST cracked open. It shouldnt have vacuum all the time.... otherwise at 5000rpm when you lift the throttle off, you are at max mechanical advance due to the weights, and then suddenly it advances another 10 or so degrees on TOP of that max advance..... not cool!

I used to think that, but it actually doesn't do any damage.
There is only high vacuum (and dizzy advance if on high vacuum side) when the engine is getting bugger all air, which means bugger all chance of detonation if that's what your concern is. It could possibly mean cleaner emissions on decelleration.

We tried setting it up with the vacuum advance plumbed in on the airfilter side and the port side of the butterfly and the port side won.
having it on this side bumps up your ignition timing at idle, which leads to better combustion, thus leading to a far smoother idle.
When running lumpy cams, this really does help.
Much better fuel efficiency at idle too, not that you'd nitice it when the right foot is flat to the floor for the rest of the time.

18RGEU dizzies have two vacuum points on the dizzy. As far as I can tell on mine only one of them actually does anything, the other can be sucked on or blown through and the air just flows on through it.

[filthman]

I've just reassembled my 18RGU for my KE35 but have struck a problem. I got a top timing chain that has the exact amount of links in it as the chain I took out, and its slightly shorter because its new and not stretched. Its only about 3 - 4 mm shorter (the old chain wasn't that bad)

My problem is that in attempting to fit up the new chain it is tight to the point where the tensioner wont screw in. The engine has gone back together the same way it was taken apart. I'm not sure whats going on with it at the moment.

Does anybody know how many links there are in the top chain? Or does anyone have a top chain lying around that they could count the links on it for me??

The engine was running great until the oil pump seized and broke the pump shaft. Sean Malony fortunately had a good pump for me. While the engine was apart I did a short motor rebuild - standard specs with a balance (it should still be quite a bit better then the old 4K )

If anyone know feel free to email of call me

Thanks
Cam
filthman@tpg.com.au
0423 021 523

[Mr DOHC]

whats the PN and brand of the chain, does the chain links fit snugly over the gear

[The Witzl]

Cam (filthman),

Have you loosened off the tensioner before screwing it back into the head? It's also possible that you have droped a link on the auxiliary shaft gear that links the upper and lower chains..... i know i've done that a few times and cursed profusely!!

The body of the tensioner actually adjusts the tension, being held by the short locking nut that mates to the tensioner's rubber booty thing. Unlock the lock nut and unscrew the main body - this will move the tensioner plunger outwards

[filthman]

From memory the part number is a DZ98 (definately ??98). I've had that rear adjuster completely off the tensioner and it would only screw in on first thread (the tensioner has two thread seperated by the oil feed gallery). I considered a dropped link on the bottom gear as soon as the problem became apparent, however with it all setup and turning the engine over (by hand of course) there is no indication of this. Yes, the chain sits nicely over the gears.

A few hours of seraching on the old forums didn't give me any help either.

At the moment I've got an extra link in it. It makes the chain a bit long, and as a result the tensioner has to be adjusted right up to make it work.

Thanks for the suggestions though.

[barned01]

i have an old chain in the shed did you wan't me to count the links in it???
there are 10 links between the first top gear and second, i remember that for sure...

[Steve M]

It's also possible that you have droped a link on the auxiliary shaft gear that links the upper and lower chains..... i know i've done that a few times and cursed profusely!!

A common problem, and a pain in the arse.

My new top chain has the part number 3DR98-2, meaning 98 links and double row I would imagine.
Have you actually counted the number of links in your chain?

Another issue that I found a couple of days ago could be with the tensioner its self.

Often people break parts of these and then replace the big nut-like adjustment part with a nut that has some tube welded onto it. I have one of these at home and it has much less scope for adjustment than the original design, less that half the total travel when not oil filled.

Other than a problem with the chain length or guide/tensioner design issues, I can really only see the problem being a dropped link, the system just ins't normally that complicated.

I hope you can find an answer soon so you can get it back on the road. I also plan to do a KE35-18RG conversion in the future.

[n0rto]

Hey guys i've got an 18r-geu in an ra40 with microtech which i plan to turbo in the near future. Was just wondering if anyone has got a turbo on an 18r-geu yet cause very interested to see what power they make with a turbo and what sort boost you can force into them

[Mr DOHC]

heaps fo ppl have turbo RG's, hp numbers range from 220rwhp to nearly 400 on stock motors {the 400 one didnt last long tho, nice one alex }

[KE30_18r-gu]

Just some useful information. Rebuilding the 18rg

Had a little trouble finding headgasket for it. Came along a website in NSW that can supply most of the toyota import gaskets.

http://www.swmotorsport.com/

Good prices and good service

Adam

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KE-30 Corolla
18r-GU 88250 2lit Twin .45 Webbers