Hi All,
I recently had a front mount, and stainless piping installed on my 1J converted MZ20. I've had a Blitz DD blow off valve sitting in my shed for ages waiting for the new piping, so that I have something to weld a flange onto.
My question is... The stock 1J BOV is literally part of the intake piping, and to remove it would require some kind of plate to block off its previous location. I'm not really sure how much of it needs to be removed if anything at all.
Can anyone that has installed an aftermarket BOV on their 1J please share their setup with me? Photos would be much appreciated.
Thanks guys!
Dan
I've got a wingle turbo now, but i'd imagine it wouldnt be that hard. Just block off the stock BOV pipe flange with a plate, and fit the new one closest to the ThrottleBody as possible. If your plumbing it back, pumb it back into the air intake.
Check my members rides thread for pics of how i installed mine. I'll send you a more detailed version later (re: Paint) but im at work now and cant do much.
Cheers
Shazza
you can actually leave it connected. Just means that if the first one doesn't let enough air out then the stock one will do the rest. Otherwise, I think on soarercentral, someone sells blocking plates. Then block any hoses that it had attached to it.
leave the stock one connected and pull the vacum line off, run a bit of hose to the venting port and hang your BOV off the end of that.
using a plate where the stock BOV is the ideal way
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Yea, I just left the stock bov connected and pulled the vacum lines off it. The vacum line from the bov to the intake plenum is at the back part of the plenum so I just ran a vac line from there to the new GReddy Type-S bov which is welded to the intercooler pipe between the throttle body and intercooler.
Current Ride: 1991 MX83R Cressida Grande - 7M-GE with Auto ... ~150rwhp @ 0psi
Previous Ride: 1988 GZ20 Soarer GT Limited - 1JZ-GTE with Auto ... 286.2rwhp @ 18psi
Vac line and a couple of caps. Remove the thick hose that runs between the bov and the piping under pressure and cap the connectors. The stopper on the legs of chairs (available from bunnings) work well!
Thanks heaps guys!
Dan
+rep for all
Dan
sorri i would like to ask why would an after market bov would be best mount as near possible to the throttle body...?
due to space constrain i mount my greddy type R bov in between the turbine and the intercooler ... around 2 feet frm the turbo only... wat would i be expecting frm such setup?
It really makes SFA difference where you put it. Note that Toyota mounts the BOV right near the turbos on the JZ series engines, and they probably know what they're doing.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
logically, wouldnt it be best to put it b4 the cooler, that way u arent expelling cooled air, thus the cooler had had to soak up less heat
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
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Acording to the theiry its best just before the throttle body as thats where the 'harmful' pulse of compressed air starts. Its to nip it in the bud. Plus thats whe the point of most pressure will be so it makes sense.
These "pulses" you speak of move at the speed of sound, so will travel from one end of the cooler piping to the other in a tiny fraction of a second. Given the speed at which a BOV will open (ie much slower than that), the mounting position isn't going to make a gnat's dick of difference.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Thats the popular theiry. I never said it was correct!I agree they aint gonna get the pulse, but it is the point whe the blockage will occur.
There must be some validity to the 'closer to the throttle body' argument cos all the porc-a la-mans cars used to run a bov from the plenum with their ITB set up.
Originally Posted by ReQuieM
Harmful? riiight.