Hi
I am looking at building up my 4age bigport. I will be looking at getting some cams for it, but I am not sure what would be suitable. I want really good power, but it will be a car that I drive on the road too.
I have read that you can go with big cams and still be capable to drive on the road with some good tuning.
Does anybody have any advice? Or has this been covered before?
More info required.
1. Name the power output you want
2. Look at Billzilla's webpage and it will TELL you how to get it with what degree cams.
3. Search![]()
Things also depend on what you consider "drivable" and what you consider to be "big cams" Eg. i only have 272 deg cams but i consider them to be huge due to the fact that there's a fat turbo hanging off the side as well.
Eddie.
I gotta stop buying parts..... 4agte's coming soon
You should get intouch with Clive cams in Melbourne. 03 9758 5977 speak to Clive and he should be able to answer your questions. He can grind any cam spec you require. One important thing, are you going to run an aftermarket ecu ? this will limit your cam size if you keep the stock computer.
gemtoy: i think that is Clives old number. I got a merry xmas letter from him saying they were moving shop. It had the new phone number on it, but i cant find the letter now, ill search around some more when i get home.
Clive has a few good 4A grinds, he did my 308* grind and it is beautiful. Not streetable well though, produces less than a 4AC until 4200rpm.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | Basketcase Supra - 2JZA61 Daily/Sprint car | 2006 Scott Voltage YZ0 DJ/4X Hardtail | 2006 Giant Reign DH/FR Machine
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
Anything up to about 280* will be streetable and still have a midrange with good top end but as previously stated you are going to have to use an aftermarket ecu to run them properly. Good luck.![]()
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Rofl.Originally Posted by takai
Dont you just wish you could have honda's vtec on a 4A.
2 cam profiles that switch halfway through the rev range - you know you want it
/me ponders if the B16A head, with it's 81mm bore will bolt on to a 4A's 81mm bore![]()
Really dont want vtec at all. But thats fairly irrelevant. Remember to keep this thread on topic.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | Basketcase Supra - 2JZA61 Daily/Sprint car | 2006 Scott Voltage YZ0 DJ/4X Hardtail | 2006 Giant Reign DH/FR Machine
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
if its still using the std ecu, 264's or 272's are the best bet - good drivability and nice mild power
with a little bit of fine timing tuning (get some camwheels too) you can run them with the std ecu
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Thanks guys. I have been searching on info on the net, but its always better to get some from people who have gone down the same road that I am about to go on.
Yeah I am looking at over 150HP as my goal. I still want it to be NA, and can be driven on public roads.
Do different brands have a different effect on the engine even if they are the same in lift and duration? What brands would you recommend?
A cam is a cam, if it has the same profile then it will act the same. Differences come in how well the manufacturer makes it, for example stellite regrinds have a tendency to chip, wheras billet grinds (i.e. new) dont so much.
Are you after 150hp at the fly, or at the wheels? At the wheels will result in a close to unstreetable car.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | Basketcase Supra - 2JZA61 Daily/Sprint car | 2006 Scott Voltage YZ0 DJ/4X Hardtail | 2006 Giant Reign DH/FR Machine
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
If I could get it at the wheels would be good.
But I was more thinking 150 + HP at the flywheel, preferrably more (I am still considering on how deep will I allow my pockets to be).
an aftermarket ecu would b tha first thing i change b4 getting camsOriginally Posted by ae86drift
If you are planning on going to an aftermarket ECU, I reckon 288s would be a good option, with adjustable cam gears of course and a slight increase in compression.
Are you planning on running the single throttle body plenum, or individual 20V throttle bodies? If the latter, you may want to do some thorough research on which ECU you want to go for. Getting it to run good with a good vacuum signal with big cams can be a PITA on some of the cheaper options. I think there was actually a thread about that recently actually.
Well I do have ae111 throttle bodies, and a Motec M4 sitting in my room. So 288's would be the good option then. My engine already has adjustable cam gears, so I would need to up the compression, and while I'm at it should I go for forged pistons an rods (as its all going to be opened up)?
If you end up going that route then say goodbye to any realistic streetability.
For reference, im running 308* cams, 20v quads, higher compression, oversized valves, cam gears, and a few other tricky bits and im producing less power than a 4AC at anything under 4200rpm. It is hugely hard to get away at the lights with anything under a 3000rpm shunt.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | Basketcase Supra - 2JZA61 Daily/Sprint car | 2006 Scott Voltage YZ0 DJ/4X Hardtail | 2006 Giant Reign DH/FR Machine
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
yeah, u gotta find a right balance, alot of research helps
i would strongly suggest you make an effort to get a ride in cars that have the cam profiles you are looking at... what is streetable to one person may be undrivable to another.. it depends on their tolerance levels...
the bigger cams also significantly affect your driving style... makes it harder to get away from a stop, you need to keep revs higher so it is not annoying (ie, i trundled around at 4k+ all the time with my 4K, and that only had 275/285)... so the best thing you can do is to experience what it is like to drive firsthand, rather than relying on peoples opinions of how good drivability is... it is too subjective to get a good idea without doing so
cya, and have fun testdriving,
Stewart
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'zactly. My driving style has become accustomed to large cams and 45mm webers, and all the low end grunt lost as a result. Also, I am still a young driver, so I'm not "over" driving for commuting purposes. Many people I know consider my car a pig, but I tolerate it because I value the top end rush I get when I choose/need to use it.Originally Posted by oldcorollas
So before you choose a power output, consider the compromises you are prepared to make. No matter how deep your pockets are, you won't make a high power:capacity NA engine with uncompromised bottom end torque.
I think I will have to do that. Thanks guys for you input.
Boo! I lost rep because of that post? That's so stupid - it was a tiny bit in jest but still, not to atleast have the courtesy of giving a reason? Not happy jan.