4AFE AE92 Corolla timing belt change - questions

[petergoudie]

Our 1994/5 Corolla (Aka Holden Nova) has just turned over 105,000 km. I am in the process of changing the timing belt and have a few questions that someone might be able to answer:

(1) I had to remove the 4, 10mm bolts holding the water pump pulley to allow enough clearance to remove the plastic middle cam belt cover. However, you can't remove the pulley altogether as there is not enough clearance between the inner guard. This means I must remember to fit the pulley over the pump drive flange but not bolt it when I replace the water pump.

Has anyone removed the belt covers without loosening the water pump pulley? How did you do it?

The next problem is how do I accurately tighten the water pump pulley bolts. There is not enough room to fit the head of a torque wrench in. I was thinking of using a ring spanner as an extension and reducing the torque wrench setting.

(2) I will replace the water pump as it is 20 years old even though it isn't leaking. The water pumps are available as a half unit and as a whole unit with cast back plate.

I was planning to use the pump with the backing plate as it fits in place using only two O-rings. It is held to the block with three bolts and another two on a water outlet flange at the rear. I think it is easier to fit this pump than to clean the paper gasket off in its restricted location. What have some of the rest of you used?

(3) The timing belt kit includes the crank and cam shaft oil seals. There are no leaks with the seals now. Is it worthwhile replacing them? Even the water pump shows no sign of leaking.

Thanks

Peter

[dnegative]

Just do the bolts up tight, buy the front half of the water pump and the cam/crank seals are a personal laziness preference.
Dunno about the pulley, might have to pull some more mounts off and tilt the motor etc

[Dan_k36]

Take the mount off, and with a block of wood on the sumo, jack it slowy up to gain access
As for the water pump just change the front half
As tighten the bolts, ul feel what tight is, they are only 8mm three so don't iver tighten or snappy snaps

[petergoudie]

Thanks for both of your replies. After reading them I think I might know what the issue is with the pulley.

The engine would need to be jacked up about 100mm or lowered down about 75mm to slide the water pump pulley off. As it stands, I think I will have to take the pump off the block because if I can't remove the pulley now, I doubt if there will be enough clearance to remove just the front pump half.

I think the issue is that our car has power steering. The water pump pulley drives the power steering pump. As such, the pulley is twice as wide, hence it hitting the inner upper chassis (guard) before it can be fully removed. If the pulley was half as wide everything would come out easily. Of course, on the production line, the complete assembled engine is fitted, pulley and all.

It will be a matter of removing the whole pump and rear housing with loose pulley and putting everything back later with loose pulley on the pump until the cam belt covers are in place.