Jeez mate, this is left of field and I like the can do search until it works attitude
Ok my IS200 has done many many km, 3rd in the auto is getting slippery, and the motor stuttery.
I had to decide between Turbo 3RZFE, Twin Turbo 1MZFE or Twin Turbo 2GRFE
I started gathering parts from LC Engineering for the 3RZ (and got a motor), and got some custom rods for the 1MZ (and got a motor), and bought a crashed Aurion.
I weighed all the engines, not much between them, cant recall exact figures, but the 3RZ was around 190kg, 1MZ 185kg and 2GR 175kg?
I went to the wreckers and got a Y bellhousing from a Tarago. Looks like a good fit for the 1MZ and possibly the 2GR but starter motor is a problem for both. Also not keen on high HP with a W box.
Back to wreckers, got a V6 4Runner bellhousing, flywheel, starter.
It bolts onto the 2GR with 4 solid points, and I was able to grind away enough of the block to fit the starter without weakening anything.
The flywheel bolts on to the 2GR (using 4AC bolts I had lying around)
Next problem - no security module or key. The Aurion ECU still controls the fly by wire throttle, but wont spark or run injectors.
Solution - Got a 2006 RAV4 ECU from USA. Plugged it in, some relay was buzzing in the fuse box. I dont care at this stage.
I checked every single wire on Aurion and Rav diagrams. Only issue I can see is that the exhaust VVT solenoids go to different pins.
I put areostart in the engine, and cranked. It fired up! I started cutting chunks out of the loom and wiring in supercheap relays.
Loom is minimal now!!
Next issue. I want to use a R150 hilux box. The input shaft is 1in too short to make any kind of spigot bearing fit. NPC is going to make me a custom flywheel to sort that out.
Bought a R154 Soarer shifter kit brand new. Crazy - the bolt hole are slightly out in one axis!! Bolting the 2 rear bolts on lines up the shifter, but the mid bolts are out by 3mm? and front bolts out by 6mm! I will weld, drill and tap new holes.
I removed the oil cooler off the block. Looks like I have a place for RWD engine mounts on both sides of the block.
Checkout out the water pipes. I will make a simple T that directs the water back under the intake manifold to the front.
Will make a custom plenum.
Turns out the closest HEGO sensors are the A/F sensors. The go to a 30A fuse!! I will try to use the output from them for some kind of mixture gauge.
A 3VZ fuel rail injector spacing is not quite right. Shame they have big tunnels in them.
1MZ fuel rail injector spacing is good, mount points wrong and small tunnel. I will either modify 1MZ rails or just make new rails (I want a return type fuel system for boost)
The Aurion sump is going to be where the crossmember is, so I got a 4GRFSE IS250 sump and pickup from USA. Its rear, slim and from my calculations might just fit.
I wont do anymore until I get the flywheel / spigot bearing sorted (I am not forking out $1700 for a R154!!)
Pics soon.
-Sam
Jeez mate, this is left of field and I like the can do search until it works attitude
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
I wish I used supercheap relays too
they sound like they are very good
Cranking Vid:-
Pics:-
More soon
-Sam
Installing the 100mm thick intercooler (without cutting any metal or killing the air con pipes).
holy shi****T......this may convince myself to go back to my 2gr instead of 3rz choice for my project. damn you! lol.
i always wondered if there was enough meat on the block to grind off for a starter.
hmmmmmm.........
Destroyer of 'Drop Forged' spanners
There isnt enough meat for a 'Y' or 'C' bellhousing and starter, only 3VZ bellhousing and starter.
I dont know if the IS200 tunnel needs bashing like MX81 does to fit a R box.
R boxes do fit in KE70s without any bashing
IS250 did come out with a manual option in USA only. Its the same gearbox as VE V6 but different bellhousing. An option is to get one of those bellhousings from USA if you want a strong 6 speed.
IS250 Manual (USA):-
W55 vs R150:-
Short input shaft of R150:- (R154 is 1in longer) and thats with a huge 16mm wide double row spigot bearing! (As used on my 3SGTE conversion)
Clutch disc is a bit close to the edge when released, so I will get NPC to bring the flywheel face out 10mm:-
Depends what you want. If your after big HP, 3RZ will work out cheaper. If you want smooth and good fuel ecconomy, the 2GR.
Monkeywrenchracing sells cams, internals etc for 2GR, but as its open deck block, I wouldnt feel confortable pushing over 400hp from one without Darton sleeves etc, and thats going to cost!
Hey Dumbass, I thought your comment was a bit harsh. This is an adventurous build and worthy of admiration. I'm sure if the electricals fail, it will get sorted and yeah maybe supercheap relays aren't a long term thing, but they seem to be working for the sorting out phase.
Found some of my engine weights (Measured myself):-
3SGE Beams no altinator (with Air con, PS, Flywheel, Loom, ECU) 177kg
1MZFE no altinator (with Air con, PS, Flywheel, Cut loom) 182kg
3RZFE complete (with Air con, PS, Flywheel, Loom, starter) 197.7kg
5MGE complete (with Air con, PS, Flywheel, Loom, starter) 230kg
I have wired up hundreds of cars with supercheap relays!
Cool project, look forward to seeing the results.
Going to NPC tomorrow so they can start on the custom flywheel and clutch setup.
NPC have been really tops with me. They first cluch the centre springs were not tough enough for launches. So took it back out and sent to them where they fixed it and put new pucks on it free. Then years later I outgrew the power of their toughest off the shelf one so they built me a stronger one for no extra charge. Top mob.
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