JZX110 into MX83 Help Please

[BLK_20v]

Hi Guys,

I've been hooking into the wiring of the jzx110 into my mx83 and thought I'd ask for a bit of help with the multiplex stuff and a couple of other questions as the mx83 doesn't have any of that junk.

Apologies if any of this has been covered before, i searched but couldn't find it easily.

Alternator / Oil pressure Switch

The alternator charge light and oil pressure switch appears to go directly to the ecu and is fed to the dash via multiplex output pins? Can i splice into the wire and run a new one to the mx83 pin in the body harness?

Tacho

Comes from the ecu, will i need a tacho booster to get it to run?

Orange Plug

The o2 sensor shielding and a few other sensor shielding is fed into the orange plug. Should I earth these? or what is the best thing to do with them? Yellow wire is one of them in the pic below.



Dash Temp Gauge / Thermo Fan

I'm going to cut one of the radiator hoses and add in a piece with the threads for the sensors to slot into.

Speedo

Is the SPD pin on the ecu the output for the speedo? Any tips / things I'll need to do to get this going?

Physical Mounting of ECU

Keen to see if anyone has pics of the ecu + wiring mounted up behind the glovebox.

My Notes / Pinout Trace

My general notes which might help someone, they aren't the easiest to follow but i get them and it might help someone so here you go...



I'm sure there will be a couple of other questions later on, but thanks for reading and your time.

[wilbo666]

Hi Guys,

Alternator / Oil pressure Switch

The alternator charge light and oil pressure switch appears to go directly to the ecu and is fed to the dash via multiplex output pins? Can i splice into the wire and run a new one to the mx83 pin in the body harness?

Easiest way is as you've said to run new wires from the charge light to the dash and the oil pressure sw to the dash. Not sure if the engine ECU oil pressure input will like 12V from the dash light going up it, so you may want a diode going out from the engine ECU... (i.e. engine ECU pin -----|>----- oil pressure sw --- GROUND). That said the engine ECU might be fine with it

Tacho

Comes from the ecu, will i need a tacho booster to get it to run?

Generally people use the IG- output from the igniter as opposed to the engine ECU TACH output, but regardless you will need a booster.

Cheers
Wilbo

[BLK_20v]

Thanks wilbo...

I'll add the diode at the ecu to be safe and then splice out to the dash for the alt / oil pressure pretty much straight after it.

Do you know what to do with the shielded wires, is it fairly safe to just ignore them?

[George]

would add my 5cent
orange plug just joins all groungs together. You may check that every wire in the plug has continuity to intake manifold. Don't do anything to it.
I always use ECU tach output. In most cases there's no need for a booster. Sometimes tacho output needs a resistor (180 Ohm) to ground to get tacho working. Using igniter's 8th pin is ok too.

[dumbass]

i dont think u need oil pressure signal to ecu
as thats just signal to ecu which then tells dash oil pressure
just check if oil pressure switch is grounded when no oil pressure
then connect it direct to oil pressure light wire which is yel blue

temp u might have to fit cressida water temp sender for dash in the motor
as most very late motors dont have extra sensors but just the engine ecu ones

im not sure if the spd wire on ecu is an output
ive never tested it but i know late model boxes dont have speed sensor on box for dash
so i just run a converter box off the output shaft sp2 sensor then to speedo wire on cressida which is yellow

if the alt has an "ig" and "s" and "w" wire on it then just lengthen the cressida alt wires to other side and connect
ive never seen a tacho output to ground
always to 12v
anyway just try it without booster and see what happens
i know ive fitted boosters when ive done afew jzx161 looms for cressidas
i just did a 1uz to cressida lom so everything is fresh hehehe

[BLK_20v]

Cool thanks heaps guys that helps allot.... I've spent the majority of the evening in the shed playing with this and can confirm the following...

Inihitor switch is the ground to the starter relay... Different from the traditional 80's style of interupting the actual starter wiring. I got continuity to only one of the pins when i tested it before which is kinda weird. But i think it is safe to say the orange plug is all grounds.

That means all pins are accounted for on the engine harness , which leaves the ecu wiring to go. Does anyone know if the pinouts for the jzx110 are the same as the jzs171 for certain? Main reason i ask is i have an easy to follow pinout all on one page for the jzx110.

I received an email today with the pinouts which matches the starter wiring, and other ecu pins.. so worst case i'll work out each wire as i need it from the new diagrams.

And the shift up / down just grounds momentarily right?

[George]

jzs171 has sluggish useless paddle shifters
I do have jzx110 (1jz-gte) diagrams but had not swapped one yet. So only can help you with the files. Odd thing you asked for jzs171 diagrams while that's not exactly what you're looking for

[BLK_20v]

Hi,

The heading is wrong , I actually did need the jzs171 wiring diagrams which at the ecu at least matches the jzx110

[George]

what p/n is your ECU? 89661-****?

[BLK_20v]

ECU part number is 89661-3a870 when i purchased the 1j i thought i was getting a jzx100 package...

[George]

it's jzs171 ecu
next questions are:
-is your engine off jzx110 or jzs171
-the same applies to the auto
if you don't see connectors that go to nowhere on the engine/trans side then probably you're lucky with everything jzs171
On the body loom side it's normal to have some unwired things
Wreckers do like put different stuff together and sell as a kit

jzs171 is better than jzx100 if you plan to use it as is. It has electronic throttle and electronically operated transmission, drives very smooth. There's also slightly better turbo presuure management system

[BLK_20v]

I'm pretty sure everything is jzs171 as it came from the importer and was sitting on a pallet when i picked it up and it came with cut power steering hoses and heater hoses etc. I was naive in asking for a 1jz vvti engine, and this was what i got. Unfortunately i didn't get the body loom, but i've sourced 2jz ecu plugs which fit and added the pins for the ones the jzs171 uses.

The other thing i'm not oversure of is the overdrive and the NSSD and AT4 pins. I know it feeds solenoid 3, but i'm not sure how it gets there.

It took me a while to get my head around how the Inhibitor switch was the Starter relay earth, but the inputs to the ecu as to what gear has been selected is 12v.

[BLK_20v]

FML , dropped this into the bay this morning and went to pull the harness through into the cabin only to realise it is too short to reach through under the dash, so i've ripped her out again and i'll be extending the wires at the ecu.

The jzs171 has the ecu in the bay FFS.

Just means another week before it is running.

[dumbass]

dont fking extend the wires
u are asking for trouble down the track
its very pain in the ass job to do it properly and not to fail

ive done a jsz161 2j into mx83 and i cut away have the plastic around the loom
and managed to pull on the loom abit and just managed to put ecu inside the glovebox

[BLK_20v]

dont fking extend the wires
u are asking for trouble down the track
its very pain in the ass job to do it properly and not to fail

ive done a jsz161 2j into mx83 and i cut away have the plastic around the loom
and managed to pull on the loom abit and just managed to put ecu inside the glovebox

I've done it before on other cars, and found if u offset the cuts it helps, just time consuming to get a good twist on each wire... Though after i pulled the engine back out again i noticed that if i extend the knock sensor wires and the starter wire i can get an extra 10cm or so on the main ecu wiring, so i'll do that instead.

Worst case if that still isn't enough I'll cut the arse out of the glovebox...